Grinding gears

[Steve Ruddy]

If I start the cub in neutral and try to shift the gears will grind. If I start in neutral, turn the throttle way down, push in the clutch and wait for about 20 seconds or so it won't grind. While operating if I stop the tractor before changing gears no grinding will accur however as soon as I put it in neutral and try to shift it will grind. I also definitely can't change gears on the fly. I have a new clutch and have tried to adjust the release levers but nothing helps. Now I think the release levers are to far out. How do I get the levers adjusted to specs without splitting the tractor and how do I fix the gear grinding?

[Daniel H.]

While operating if I stop the tractor before changing gears no grinding will accur however as soon as I put it in neutral and try to shift it will grind. I also definitely can't change gears on the fly.

On the cub, like most tractors, you have to stop before changing gears. There are no synchronizers in the transmission like a car has to allow you to "shift on the fly". When you push in the clutch, it takes time (the 20 secnds or so you mention) for the input shaft to the transmission to spin down so it will shift with out grinding. My Super A is the same way. As for the clutch adjustments, I'm sure others will jump in.

[Bigdog]

The clutch can be adjusted through the hand-hole in the bottom of the housing.

[Rudi]

Steve:

Been there done that.

Just had a request from another Cubber about the thread that dealt with this very subject. Soooo, I went and found the original thread, and I just copied the email response, so here it is for what it is worth.



As for the adjustment, do not be afraid of it. It is very simple. It will probably take you 20 or 30 minutes, but it is a two man job if you can get the second pair of hands. The most complicated tool you will need is a creeper if you have one - just so it is easier on the body.

So - did a little search on http://www.farmallcub.com and this is what I found. Oh I have attached the relevant page.

this is the link to the page:

http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/posting.ph ... st&p=21231

This is the text

K, here is what we did.

First go to page 32 in the TC-37A Parts Catalog.



In the diagram you will see parts numbered 2, 3 and 4.

Part # 4 is the fingers or the Release Lever. Part #3 is the lock nut and Part #2 is the adjusting screw.

(Oh two people are best, that way you don't have to crawl out from under the tractor too often )

Rotate the engine over until you see the adjusting screw and nut and have access with a 1/2" wrench. Turn counter clockwise to loosen. Once the nut is loosend, turn with a standard bit in a ratchet 1/2 turn clockwise. Then retighten the lock nut.

Rotate the engine and repeat above until all three are done.

You should notice that the grinding is gone or there is substantial improvement. If it has not gone completely away, repeat with a 1/4 turn clockwise on the adjusting screw.

This is what we did. Now, depending on your problem you may have to turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise, but you will see that almost immediately.

Now, guys correct me if I am wrong, but, by using Jethro's exposed clutch assembly, we figured this out and we also checked the measurement. The stated figure used for adjusting the clutch appears to be pretty darn good, because when we adjusted Jethro's fingers and measured the distance from the face to the finger tip, it was exactly 1-1/8" before adjustment and 1-1/4" after adjustment. We used this on Ellie and it worked perfectly.

Your tranny should shift smoothly and quietly after this adjustment.

Wow The things you can learn just from reading posts on this forum. As in my case, I did not understand, nor could I visualize what all this meant until the last couple of days. Eventually though, the information I have absorbed did prove useful and I now rather rudimentarily understand the workings of the clutch.

Oh, if in doubt about the usefulness of information - see signature line

Steve, I hope this helps.

Cheers

Rudi

[Steve Ruddy]

There are no synchronizers in the transmission like a car has to allow you to "shift on the fly". When you push in the clutch, it takes time (the 20 secnds or so you mention) for the input shaft to the transmission to spin down so it will shift with out grinding

Oh Well in that case as long as I keep that In mind I won't have anymore grinding problems. When I start the tractor in neutral I will let the shaft stop spinnig before I attempt to shift and the same if I stop the tractor and leave it idle in neutral. Others wise I can shift at will.

I would like to readjust my release levers to specifications I think I may have them a little to far in and I'm worryied about maintining the proper clutch to ressure plate contact. My manual says 1.877 for auburn and 1.901 for Rockford. I have a 1948 Cub does anyone know which I have.

[Steve Ruddy]

Looks like Rudi got his working with 1 1/4" clearance quite a bit out of spec. I guess it's not as criticle of an adjustment?

[Ron L]

Steve. If your serial number ends with a "J", then originally it came with a Rockford. No letter = Auburn. (ie: 55555J = Rockford. 55555 = Auburn).......... Hope this helps.

[Donny M]

Steve,

It's anyones guess what clutch is in there now but if the tractor s/n ends with a J then it came with a Rockford, if no J then Auburn. The picture Rudi posted is a Rockford. The Auburn will not have the adjuster screws, (index #2)

[George Willer]

Looks like Rudi got his working with 1 1/4" clearance quite a bit out of spec. I guess it's not as criticle of an adjustment?

Steve,

No, 1 1/4" is the ideal measurement and it's fairly critical... especially that all 3 fingers are the same. The measurement he mentioned is just taken at a different place from the manual... the most obvious place. 1 1/8" will work, but in my experience 1 1/4" is better.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Steve,It's anyones guess what clutch is in there now but if the tractor s/n ends with a J then it came with a Rockford, if no J then Auburn. The picture Rudi posted is a Rockford. The Auburn will not have the adjuster screws, (index #2)

The Auburn has adjustment screws, but thye are locaed at the outer end of the fingers rather than in the center as is shown in the picture.

[Rick Prentice]

I didn't hear anybody say anything about the adjustment down at the pivot of the clutch pedal under the seat platform. On my backhoe tractor, the bolt loosened up and wouldn't allow my clutch to disengage.

[Steve Ruddy]

My serial number is 56387 so the original Auburn has been replaced sometime with a Rockford.

No, 1 1/4" is the ideal measurement and it's fairly critical... especially that all 3 fingers are the same

Thanks for clearing that up for me George. I will go with 1 1/4" as Rudi has suggested.

Thanks everyone for all the great info. You guys are always here when I need you.