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Replacing thebrakes

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mwilke
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Location: missouri, O'Fallon

Replacing thebrakes

Postby mwilke » Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:35 am

I have looked at the service manual but cannot seem to find how to replace the brakes. How do I get tto he brakes to replace.

Thanks in advance.

MIke

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farmallcub49
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Postby farmallcub49 » Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:38 am

I believe you have to pull the final drives to replace the brakes. You can adjust them externally. What sort of problem are you having with the brakes? Maybe someone else can chime in and help. If you pull the final drives make sure and replace various seals and gaskets. Also check the bearings. Remember the old saying, "Well, as long as I have this far apart, I might as well do it right!"
'49 Cub, '58 LoBoy,'61 LoBoy, '61 Modified LoBoy, '61 Customized LoBoy, way to many attachments, '22 Centerdoor Sedan, '24 Ford T Roadster, '25 Ford TT, '24 C Cab, '13 Touring, '24 Model T Snowmobile,

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EZ
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Postby EZ » Sun Jan 09, 2005 12:12 pm

mw,

I wish it were easier to change out the brakes on a Cub, but the design makes it necessary to remove the final drives to get at them. The upside to this is mentioned by f49, you get to swap out your seals etc...while you are "in there". I think it well worth the effort, because after it's done, you will most likely ever have to go in again until maybe 2045 or so.
Having "gone in" myself, I can tell you from experience that it's not that hard. The hardest part of all is actually picking up a wrench and starting to turn it. Once that wrench starts spinning, the job gets real easy.
Just Do It !

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ScottyG
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Postby ScottyG » Tue Jan 11, 2005 8:15 am

It's not all that difficult to remove the final drives. You'll need to remove the fenders since there are several dual purpose bolts that hold the final drives in place through the fenders.

The left one is a piece of cake because your drive axle isn't that long. Once you remove the bolts, you may have to wiggle the drive to loosen and then, it should just pull straight out. Careful, they weigh about 70 lbs or so. Don't quote me on this but from what I remember, you should see the brake band once you remove the drive and it is easily accessible from here.

The right final drive is a little more tricky because the drive axle is about three times as long so, make sure you have the room to make the pull.

Now. Installation is a bit of a task. The new bands do not arrive perfectly bent to fit exactly like the old ones. I and many others have had a heckuva time getting them to fit right and I've read several posts with people thinking that they had the wrong size band. I really don't think this is the case, rather, you'll need to adjust the curvature of the band by hand, fit the brake pin in the hole and pull like heck to get it to seat in the right spot. Once they're in place, just make sure that you relocate the opposite end of the pin into the opposing casting when you're reinstalling the final drive. This will prevent the inevitable headaches when you're wondering why the final drive won't reinstall flush to the tractor.

Now. When you've put your tires back on and have adjusted the brake bands, make sure you stomp on the pedals pretty good so that the force, completes the brake band bend around the drum. You should feel the brake bands give a little as they conform to their new shape. You may have to readjust them again as a result.

And, ditto on the seals. Make sure you replace the two rear seals while you have the drives off. Also, replace the final drive pan gaskets and it would be a good idea to flush clean the drives with kerosene at the same time.

Hope this helps.
"Henry" 1948 Farmall Cub

mwilke
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Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 8:09 am
Location: missouri, O'Fallon

Cub Brakes

Postby mwilke » Tue Jan 11, 2005 2:16 pm

Thanks to all of you for your responses. I will probably try to pull the drives later. Apparently, the owner before me took all the adjustment out of the brakes. I have no pedal distance at all and I have no real good stop. I may try to adjust linkage before I pull the drives.

Thanks Again

Mike


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