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lIGHTING QUESTION

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jmont54
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lIGHTING QUESTION

Postby jmont54 » Wed Jan 05, 2005 11:49 am

My tail work light is very dim. The light switch gives me High and Low beam headlights along with the Red Tail Light. When I switch to the Work Light the Headlights stay on Low beam and the Work light is very Dim. My Cub is a Y&W Model. Is this normal or do I have a wiring problem?

John Montgomery

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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Wed Jan 05, 2005 12:22 pm

Something is not right. Either you have a bad ground or high resistance connection at the tail / work light or it is wired incorrectly. The headlights should also be bright. What year is your cub?
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

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jmont54
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fOLLOUP ON LIGHTS

Postby jmont54 » Wed Jan 05, 2005 1:30 pm

BigDog,
I think it is a '76. This is the way the lights worked when I purchased the Tractor. After restoration I hooked all up as they were. I didn't think they were right to begin with.

John

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Postby Bigdog » Wed Jan 05, 2005 1:34 pm

John, do I understand correctly that the headlights operate on bright until you switch the rear worklight on and then they go dim?
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!

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jmont54
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fOLLOWUP

Postby jmont54 » Wed Jan 05, 2005 1:58 pm

BigDog,
No, The Headlights and red tail light work fine. There is a bright and dim level to them as controled by the switch. That is: Bright 1st click to the right, Dim second click to the right. When I turn to the 3rd click to the right the Tail/work light does come on along with the headlights, but both the worklight and the headlights are on dim. The red taillight is off.

John

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Postby Bigdog » Wed Jan 05, 2005 2:04 pm

OK, first click to the right should be dim, second click to the right should be bright. Not having a switch close by to look at, it is possible that the voltage feed and the load (light) wires are reversed.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!

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jmont54
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FOLLOWUP

Postby jmont54 » Wed Jan 05, 2005 2:59 pm

BigDog,
I am at work now and can't get to my Tractor until Tomorrow. Let me check it out and get back with you.

John

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Postby Bigdog » Wed Jan 05, 2005 3:24 pm

I am trying to recall what the switch and wiring looked like but it seems to me that you have the lights connected to the wrong end of the dimming resistor somehow and the resistor is not in the circuit when it should be and is in there when it should not be and I am trying to picture how that could be done with external connections. But in any case, I would definitely say it is a wiring error. Is this the round cased switch?
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

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FO0LLOWUP

Postby jmont54 » Wed Jan 05, 2005 6:51 pm

BigDog
I think that it is a round switch with a small spring risitor but do not know for sure. Will get with unit tomorrow and get back with you, but I think that you are on the right track. Must be in the switch rather than wiring on the tractor.

John

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Followup

Postby jmont54 » Thu Jan 06, 2005 5:23 pm

BigDog,
It is a round switch. Bear to get to it. You are right, as usual, first click DIM, 2nd. click BRIGHT, and, in my case 3rd. click gives dim work light and dim headlights. I can't imagine anyone messing with the switch hookups on my tractor in that it was used very little, but possible.

What do you think?

John Montgomery

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Postby Bigdog » Thu Jan 06, 2005 5:37 pm

If I were you I'd just sell it to me cheap and forget about it :roll: :roll: :roll: . But as that is not the case, you probably want to fix it........
If I were to suspect a component failure, it would be the tail light assembly. Can you disconnect the tail light and observe the headlights with the switch in the third position? That way we can determine whether the problem is coming from the switch / wiring or the tail light assembly. Also, if you have a voltmeter, measure the voltage at the switch terminals or at the headlights in all 3 positions. Then we'll see where we go next.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!

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jmont54
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FOLLOWUP

Postby jmont54 » Thu Jan 06, 2005 6:21 pm

BigDog,
Your suggestion would certainly solve my problem; however, to even think about me selling my little Cub would be totally out of the question!!!!@@@@###. My truck and car mybe yes. Not the Little Yellow and White Babe. Yes, I do want it fixed, will do what you say and get back with you. I am in VA. black as pitch now. Will do it tomorrow or the next day and get back with you. That is if i can get to the switch. Little lady has a beautiful body shop paint job so hopefully will not need to pull the hood and tank!

John

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Postby beaconlight » Thu Jan 06, 2005 10:57 pm

Last nite I tried to post some help for you. I posted it on the wring thread. Let me find it and i will repost it here.

Bill
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Postby beaconlight » Thu Jan 06, 2005 11:02 pm

Look here.
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIn ... 065733&f=0
It is a list of wiring for a Cub.

Look at picture 12 you will see that term 3 has the headlights and term 2 is the tail light. The unnumberd term is used internal to the switch. My understanding is the red tail light and work light were run off the same wire, with a switch at the rear for the work light. 1 wire to the tail light from the switch in the dashboard. A ground wire was terminated locally near the light. I have heard the work light switch was part of the light and also that it was seperate.
In some of the later models a seperate tail light and work light wire were run as well as a ground wire terminating at or near the dash board. Bob Melvill's sketches do not cover that possibility. I have also heard of a flasher unit somewhere in the rear for the red tail light. If only I could remember where I hear things or who told them to me. Can't be old age, I never could.
If it were me doing this for my self and I had the 2 wires I would wire the red tail light to term 3 with the head lights and the work light to term 2. If I had only 1 wire I would run a second or put a switch so that I could control the work light when the red tail light is lit. Lets face it the cub generators are low amperage and every amp generated is less power to the wheels. We lose sight of that with todays monster engines in cars tractors and trucks, Hundreds of horses. A cub is somewhere between 8 1/2 and 16 HP according to the year.
To our forefathers every little bit counted. Today we just use a bigger hammer.

Bill
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Bigdog!!!!!

Postby SundaySailor » Fri Jan 07, 2005 6:55 am

You oughta be ashamed of yourself! You've already said you didn't have enough room for another Cub, and now you're trying to "help" this gent like that? Hummmm, maybe I can learn something from Bigdog here. :D 8)

Rick
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