This site uses cookies to maintain login information on FarmallCub.Com. Click the X in the banner upper right corner to close this notice. For more information on our privacy policy, visit this link: Privacy Policy
NEW REGISTERED MEMBERS: Be sure to check your SPAM/JUNK folders for the activation email.
Removing/Replacing Cub Oil Pan
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2003 10:40 am
- Location: NC, Autryville
Removing/Replacing Cub Oil Pan
I have had a problem with low oil pressure on my '50 Cub for a couple of years.
Since I can't afford a full rebuild right now, I am trying the cheap fixes first. I have replaced the oil pressure gauge with a new one. It still registers low - almost in the red once it heats up even with 20W-50 oil.
Now I want to remove and clean the oil pick up screen in the oil pan.
My question: What kind of special tools will I need to remove/replace the oil pan bolts that are back in the torque tube?
Also, is there anything else that I can check while I have the oil pan off that might affect the oil pressure?
I'm afraid that it is worn crank/rod bearings, but I am trying this first since I can do it myself.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Since I can't afford a full rebuild right now, I am trying the cheap fixes first. I have replaced the oil pressure gauge with a new one. It still registers low - almost in the red once it heats up even with 20W-50 oil.
Now I want to remove and clean the oil pick up screen in the oil pan.
My question: What kind of special tools will I need to remove/replace the oil pan bolts that are back in the torque tube?
Also, is there anything else that I can check while I have the oil pan off that might affect the oil pressure?
I'm afraid that it is worn crank/rod bearings, but I am trying this first since I can do it myself.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
My worst day on a Cub is better than my best day at the office!
- Dale51
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 568
- Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2003 3:39 pm
- Location: Wellsville NY
- Bigdog
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 24144
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 12:50 pm
- Zip Code: 43113
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: OH, Circleville
- Contact:
Rick, you don't need anything fancy. A universal joint for your ratchet extension will likely be all you need. I have removed them using a 1/4" drive socket set with no swivels or flex joints at all.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
- John *.?-!.* cub owner
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 23701
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
- Zip Code: 63664
- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
- Location: Mo, Potosi
-
- 10+ Years
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 661
- Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2003 9:09 pm
- Zip Code: 18603
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub
1955 Cub - Location: PA, Berwick
- Contact:
Rick. Also, don't forget to check the tightness of the oil pick-up tube that sucks throught the screen. If its loose or sucking air, it will cause low pressure. My best success with the back three bolts was to use a universal extension 1/4 inch drive socket. Wasn't easy, but small enough to work. Be patient.............
Ron
- beaconlight
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 7703
- Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2004 2:31 pm
- Zip Code: 10314
- Location: NY Staten Island & Franklin
There are two rules of machinery and little or no oil.
1. You can pay now.
2. You can pay (much) more later
You don't want to let the lack of oil cause you to score the crank shaft or seieze up. With plasti gauge you take a bearing cap off. put the plasti gauge in and refasten the cap. Remove same and measure the thickness of the plasti gauge. New bearings if called for are no where as expensive as a complete rebuild. That way you don't lose the crank shaft nor do you throw a rod through the block.
Hey it could be the other things with the screen or oil tube but the plasti gauge will tell you it is or is not the bearings.
Bill
1. You can pay now.
2. You can pay (much) more later
You don't want to let the lack of oil cause you to score the crank shaft or seieze up. With plasti gauge you take a bearing cap off. put the plasti gauge in and refasten the cap. Remove same and measure the thickness of the plasti gauge. New bearings if called for are no where as expensive as a complete rebuild. That way you don't lose the crank shaft nor do you throw a rod through the block.
Hey it could be the other things with the screen or oil tube but the plasti gauge will tell you it is or is not the bearings.
Bill
Bill
"Life's tough.It's even tougher if you're stupid."
- John Wayne
" We hang petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office."
- Aesop
"Life's tough.It's even tougher if you're stupid."
- John Wayne
" We hang petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office."
- Aesop
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 145
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2004 7:05 pm
- Location: Brookfield Nova Scotia
Rick, I'm in the process right now with the very same problem. I took my pan off (used a warbley) and then took the bearings out. They were all scratched a bit as well as the crank had very small grooves in it. There was no sense in putting new mains and rods in it the way the crank was so I took the crank out and sent it in to be turned down. I haven't got it back yet. They turn it and put the right size bearings on it. I haven't got it back yet. Its a cheap fix. $100 for the machining and 100 for the new bearings.
Mike
Mike
My dad once told me if it wasn't for bad luck......I wouldn't have any luck at all......
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 37
- Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2004 6:10 pm
- Location: waterford michigan
low oil pressure
One more thing to check before removing the oil pan is the oil pressure regulator valve. It's located on the front right side of the engine near the timing gear under a large hex plug which can be unscrewed. The spring free length should be 2-31/32". Test lenght 2-15/32@91/2 pounds pressure from a spring compressor. A picture of the regulator is in the service manual page # 1-55. Also I'm not sure if the oil filter has a bypass valve or not. Some filters or filter housings have a bypass valve to keep oil pressure going to the engine if the filter is plugged or cannot handle the flow of oil required. Some one on this site might know about the bypass valve.
If nothing else install a new filter #1, next remove the oil pressure regulator spring if it's not the correct free length strech the spring some and try again. removing the oil pan would be next. Mike
If nothing else install a new filter #1, next remove the oil pressure regulator spring if it's not the correct free length strech the spring some and try again. removing the oil pan would be next. Mike
- beaconlight
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 7703
- Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2004 2:31 pm
- Zip Code: 10314
- Location: NY Staten Island & Franklin
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 37
- Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2004 6:10 pm
- Location: waterford michigan
low oil pressure
Bill
The nice thing about Farmallcub.com is when you have a problem with your cub, you can get a wide variety of ideas on how to go about fixing the problem. When I started on my cub this site was and is great for the variety of information.
I've spent 31 years working on engines in a General Motors test lab and it's amazing how much I learn from the folks on this site about engines.
Mike
The nice thing about Farmallcub.com is when you have a problem with your cub, you can get a wide variety of ideas on how to go about fixing the problem. When I started on my cub this site was and is great for the variety of information.
I've spent 31 years working on engines in a General Motors test lab and it's amazing how much I learn from the folks on this site about engines.
Mike
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2003 10:40 am
- Location: NC, Autryville
Guys,
Thanks for all of the input on how to fix/test my oil pressure.
I tried replacing the oil pressure gauge on the Cub with ones from another Farmall and an A-C. The new one for the Cub says I hardly have any pressure; the other Farmall gauge says that the pressure is OK at about 20 psi; the gauge from the A-C says that the oil pressure is great.
So, who knows?
I think that I will take the advice from those who suggest that I Plastigauge the bearings after I have checked the oil pick-up and pressure spring.
Many thanks again to those who gave me such good advice.
Thanks for all of the input on how to fix/test my oil pressure.
I tried replacing the oil pressure gauge on the Cub with ones from another Farmall and an A-C. The new one for the Cub says I hardly have any pressure; the other Farmall gauge says that the pressure is OK at about 20 psi; the gauge from the A-C says that the oil pressure is great.
So, who knows?
I think that I will take the advice from those who suggest that I Plastigauge the bearings after I have checked the oil pick-up and pressure spring.
Many thanks again to those who gave me such good advice.
My worst day on a Cub is better than my best day at the office!
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 661
- Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2003 9:09 pm
- Zip Code: 18603
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub
1955 Cub - Location: PA, Berwick
- Contact:
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 145
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2004 7:05 pm
- Location: Brookfield Nova Scotia
Its just an extention where the little square fitting that fits into the socket isa little egg shaped making it loose fitting or "warbly". It is a lot better than a universal. You have more control over it.
Mike
Mike
My dad once told me if it wasn't for bad luck......I wouldn't have any luck at all......
- beaconlight
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 7703
- Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2004 2:31 pm
- Zip Code: 10314
- Location: NY Staten Island & Franklin
I have heard them called "Wooblys" too.
Hey if you have an air compressor you can rig up some plumbing and make a gauge tester. With an air gauge you trust because it says the tires are right and they look right you should get the same reading on the OIL pressure gauge. Most of the regulator gauges on air compressors are close enough to use as a check on your Tire pressure gauge. If all 3 agree I would take it as gospel. If the Oil pressure differs radically from the other 2. Well you get it from there.
Bill
Hey if you have an air compressor you can rig up some plumbing and make a gauge tester. With an air gauge you trust because it says the tires are right and they look right you should get the same reading on the OIL pressure gauge. Most of the regulator gauges on air compressors are close enough to use as a check on your Tire pressure gauge. If all 3 agree I would take it as gospel. If the Oil pressure differs radically from the other 2. Well you get it from there.
Bill
Bill
"Life's tough.It's even tougher if you're stupid."
- John Wayne
" We hang petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office."
- Aesop
"Life's tough.It's even tougher if you're stupid."
- John Wayne
" We hang petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office."
- Aesop
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: CaperKen and 18 guests