Grand dad's Cub

['Country' Elliott]

Ken...Kroil has a "deal" where you can get a FREE spot Kroil oiler when you order the gallon size. Just look for it on their web site, or call the toll free number and ask for it!

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I ordered some aobut a month ago and at that time they were giving a way an aersol can of Kroil with each order.

[KenHigginbotham]

Does anyone know if the '54 has a C-60 engine? I am looking at a video on ebay that covers that type engine.

Thanks,
Ken

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

All the cubs used the C60.

[KenHigginbotham]

Thanks for the info John.

I just order some Kroil. Sounded like a product I could use doing brake jobs, etc. - as I seem to have become the specialist of family!

Ken

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Be sure to keep it off the pads and rotors! LOL.

[KenHigginbotham]

Thanks for everyone's replies regarding the cub I'm trying to get running. While I'm working on getting the engine turning, I'd like to get some other opinions.

Long term, what I'd like to do is get the tractor in some what of a show condition as I doubt I'll need to actually ever do much work with it. I'd like to trailer it to car / tractor shows behind a 66 ford pick up.

Other than running and painting it, I'd really like to stop (or slow down) any leaking oil, etc. My plans were:

1. Get replacement sheet metal and other misc parts where needed.
2. Use a portable light wt. sand blaster to prep all the surfaces for primer / paint.
3. Paint
4. New tires
5. New wiring harness
6. New hoses, etc.

I think I can get the engine leaks stopped by replacing the gaskets on the oil pan and valve access panel. I thought I may be able to split the engine from the tran and replace that gasket. Then replace several other gaskets like around the shifter and pto.

Does all of this sound like a doable project plan?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions,
Ken

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Ken, I would suggest you not sand blast any assembled parts of a tractor. They are not like blasitng the sheet metal on a car where it protects the rest of the rig. On a tractor eveything is exposed and the dust from the sand will get in openings you never dreamed were there, and after a time will wear the seals. For one that will only be run long enough for loading/unloading at shows that may not be a problem, but for someone that regularly uses one it creates a problem.

[KenHigginbotham]

Hum... I was thinking I could seal it up real good and do a good clean up after the fact....

May need to re-think this one... Any other suggestions on how to prep the surface for primer / paint?

Ken

[Rudi]

Ken:

A belated hi and welcome to the forum!

There are lots of ways to prep for primer and paint. Main thing is to make sure there is no loose paint or rust hanging on to any surfaces.

I am in the process (very slow, and right now darn near motionless ) on getting Ellie spruced up piece by piece. I use my Electrolysis Tank for most of my prep work. Works especially well on the rims, axles, deck and even the tin work. Pay attention to the tin work - it takes far less time in the tank than say a rim

Once the cleaned part has been rinsed, a good 4-1/2" angle grinder with a twisted wire cup will make very, and I mean very short work of removing what ever is left on the item after the tank has done it's job. Do use a face shield and gloves as them twisted wires can smart a bit -- don't ask Make sure to rinse with varsol or lacquer thinner. Let dry and then I generally will use a rattle can on small parts to put on a light coat of primer to keep the rust at bay. As soon as I have enough parts, then I mix up a batch of hi-build primer and have a go at it.

Just my usual note now, there is tons of useful info on the Cub Manual Server, please feel free to visit. Many fine folks on this forum have contributed most of the info that is there. You can find Maintenance Tips to Paint Codes, How to's and even useful projects to build, as well as the Manuals. Enjoy

Hope this might help in answering your question.

Man It sure is good to be back, I love this

[KenHigginbotham]

Rudi - Thanks for the advice. My little gem is still locked up - but I'll try to take it slow. I've got some Kroil on the way...

I must admit, I'm a little intimidated by the thought of doing a complete teardown. Which is what I guess I should do if I want to show it. I think it's just because I'm not aware of any special tools I may need and the fact that I may have to leave the project idle for extended lengths of time. If I do tear it down, I'll probably have to take the major castings somewhere to have them dipped and cleaned.

I did a quick look through the server when I first joined the forum and did down load some stuff. I'll go back and see what else is there that may help me.

By the looks of the posts in the other thread, you appear to have quite a group of good tractor friends. Hope your health continues to improve -

Ken

[David C]

Ken, take your time and dont let it intimidate ya. I'm getting ready to do my first engine overhaul too and let me tell you I do feel more confident, a whole lot more confident with these guys at my side...

GO TO RUDI'S LINK FOR THE CUB MANUAL SERVER and look in the blue ribbon service manuals

also I think there is a page there for making a new hand crank yourself!

David C.

[Ron L]

Ken. I concur with David. I am not an engine mechanic, but after reading the posts here for a few years and having the proper manuals to study, I almost felt like an expert when I replaced the piston rings and lapped the valves on my '48. It seemed like everything I did I knew exactly what was there. (take pictures as you go)
I would suggest getting the following manuals IF you don't have them already:
GSS-1411 Service manual
GSS-1012 Electric manual
TC-37F Parts catalog.
You can purchase them online at http://www.binderbooks.com
Good luck and remember, everyone here WILL be available to walk you through, or to pitch in on your difficulties and questions.

[KenHigginbotham]

Report: All's well in West Georgia! After a week of soaking in kerosene and a little penatrant, sn175677 is free again. Today, in addition to the gentle rocking back and forth, I decided to use someones suggestion to use a large screwdriver with a gentle pry against the flywheel gears, and it worked! Using the slightest pressure, I was able to work the engine around twice, a tooth at a time. When it seemed the resistance was gone, I was able to roll it around while in gear!

This weekend I'll change the oil and put it back together and try to crank it again.

Thanks for everyones help and suggestions -

I've about decided to pull the entire thing apart for the restore - I know I'll have to ask for some more help!

Thanks again!!

Ken

[beaconlight]

God to hear. Patience or broken iron are your only two alternatives. Glad you opted for patience.

Bill