Grand dad's Cub

Matt Kirsch · Postby **Matt Kirsch** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 3:52 pm

Drill the pin out and replace it. Don't cut the crank off.

Two days is not enough to free a stuck engine, unless you're extremely lucky. Have patience and keep working on it. You might want to try something more aggressive than kerosene, like a penetrating oil (NOT WD40!!!! WD40 is basically naptha with a little oil in it, worthless). Massey Ferguson (Agco) Panther Penetrant, has been an EXCELLENT penetrant in my experience. Still haven't tried it on a stuck engine, though. One of these days, I'm gonna drag home a stuck Farmall H and give it a shot...

There's a new penetrating product on the market. Can't remember the name but my Dad mentioned it the last time I was out visiting. Supposedly it will free stuck engines better than anything.

cowboy · Postby **cowboy** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 6:42 pm

When I was working on freeing up mine the catapiller mechinac at work told me to use breakawy or PB blaster penetrating oil. Let it sit three days before trying to crank it or you might break a ring. I assume that you pulled out the spark plugs and filled it from there and left the plugs out while cranking it.
:roll:

Other trouble spots to watch are the trans and final drives. The trans seems to draw water. I would drain and refill them. My shifting fork was broken when someone trided to put it in gear with the gear cluters frozen in the water in the bottom of the trans.
good luck cowboy

KenHigginbotham · Postby **KenHigginbotham** » Thu Dec 30, 2004 5:58 am

Still no progress. Thanks Matt & Cowboy for the tips. I'll see if I can find some of the Massey Ferguson or PB blaster penetrating oil.

The entire end of the crank broke, where the pin hole was drilled. I don't see any other way than to grind it back flat and re-drill it. I don't think it was an oem part anyway.

Thanks again,
Ken

Dale51 · Postby **Dale51** » Thu Dec 30, 2004 8:54 am

Don't just drill to pin hole just any place make sure you index the pin to the place the old pin was.
If you don't do this the crank will not be in the right position for the comp. stroke.
Check out this before you drill.

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewto ... ight=crank

KenHigginbotham · Postby **KenHigginbotham** » Thu Dec 30, 2004 10:30 am

Dale, Thanks for that tip - I probably would have thought of that after the fact...

Good link. Being locked, I'm not sure where the engine is at this point in time so I guess I'll just drill it like was before it broke...

Ken

beaconlight · Postby **beaconlight** » Thu Dec 30, 2004 11:49 am

Ken take it easy. Your only ally in this free it up is time. 3 week to a month could well be your time frame. I wonder if you were a little impatient and is why the crank broke. You can get too vigourous too soon and end up having to do a complete engine rebuild as well as screwing up the tranny. Another possibility is that you may not really be out of gear because of broken shifter forks in the tranny. That is not the case if you can move the cub by rocking on a wheel while in neutral. on January 18th have some one step on the clutch when you try to hand crank it. Why then? It gives stuff time to work. Keep putting Kero or what ever you are using and gently rocking every day or every other. TIME TIME TIME is your best friend in this.
Bill

KenHigginbotham · Postby **KenHigginbotham** » Thu Dec 30, 2004 12:08 pm

Bill - Thanks for the advice, I will take is easy...

FYI - I can roll it when I take it out of gear...

Ken

Ron L · Postby **Ron L** » Thu Dec 30, 2004 12:48 pm

Ken. Its beginning to look like you may have to pull the head and clean things up even if you do break her loose. If the cylinder walls, rings & valves are rusty, it would be best. So start studying your manuals. Once you do break her loose, check the compression and go from there. Removing the head and valves is not that difficult a task and there is plenty of experience here on the board to help you through it.

beaconlight · Postby **beaconlight** » Thu Dec 30, 2004 1:15 pm

Good that it will move. that is one less problem to confront. Again take your time.

Bill

Jim Hudson · Postby **Jim Hudson** » Thu Dec 30, 2004 1:54 pm

Was it Country Elliot who always recommended this stuff. Kroll
http://www.fordbarn.com/earlyv8/forum03/messages/87792.htm

Donny M · Postby **Donny M** » Thu Dec 30, 2004 2:07 pm

I also recommend it :!:

You can find it here: http://www.kanolabs.com/

KenHigginbotham · Postby **KenHigginbotham** » Thu Dec 30, 2004 10:04 pm

Here's a picture of my little project (less the gas tank/hood):
(Note the penatrant and original left front tire!)

Grand dad used to pull us around on an old wooden pallet in the pasture - Circa '62...
Ken

Postby **'Country' Elliott** » Fri Dec 31, 2004 7:24 am

Ken...You can also try using KROIL (from http://www.kanolabs.com) in Nashville, TN. I've had extremely good luck in getting engines & valves unstuck with it because it seeps down through the piston rings and actually dissolves the rust in the process. KROIL is GREAT on ANYTHING that's RUSTED!!! :wink:

Just spray or pour into the cylinders through the spark plug holes. Remove your valve cover and liberally spray KROIL on your valves, and springs. Let it seep in for a day or two...then try your repaired crank GENTLY to turn your engine.

KROIL is available in gallon cans, or aerosol spray cans. Once you've used it...you'll ALWAYS use it!

Dale51 · Postby **Dale51** » Fri Dec 31, 2004 9:49 am

'Country' Elliott wrote:Ken...You can also try using KROIL (from http://www.kanolabs.com) in Nashville, TN. I've had extremely good luck in getting engines & valves unstuck with it because it seeps down through the piston rings and actually dissolves the rust in the process. KROIL is GREAT on ANYTHING that's RUSTED!!!

Just spray or pour into the cylinders through the spark plug holes. Remove your valve cover and liberally spray KROIL on your valves, and springs. Let it seep in for a day or two...then try your repaired crank GENTLY to turn your engine.

KROIL is available in gallon cans, or aerosol spray cans. Once you've used it...you'll ALWAYS use it!

That is no under statement Kroil will run up hill.
Some of the old Hit & Miss engines I play with set in hedge rows for years.
They are rusted & short of a torch you can not get nuts off or bolts out.
The problem with a torch is old dirty metal OOPS ruined that! Can't go to the store & buy new.
Used to set them in the yard hang a bottle of Kroil on them & every time you walked by giver a shot.
I have & I sure Country has also taken nuts off that 2 days before
were going to twist off the stud with a open wrench. I have even used pliers just because they were in my pocket when i walked by.
Only Bad thing about Kroil is don't mix it with anti seize as you will never
hold the bolt in or keep the nut from backing off short of a complete clean up.

Postby **Arizona Mike** » Fri Dec 31, 2004 4:58 pm

Hi Ken, I have had great success with Kroil too.

I would get a gallon, and also a good small spot oiler from the hardware store. Over the next three weeks or so while the engine is soaking, go around and hit EVERY nut and bolt on her with a couple drops. Do it once a week. As you do this look everything over closely for any stress cracks in the castings or other problems...Uh

I mean opportunities :lol:

Mike

Farmall Cub

Grand dad's Cub

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