Grand dad's Cub

[beaconlight]

I would try TM tractor or JP. The can be found in the for add section of our forum

Bill

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Earlier cubs had a straight pull brake band (rod was directly attached to band) while later ones had a toggle link arrangement. The opening in the final drive for the brake is different. You cannot use an early to replace a late unless you change the brake, but I think you can use a late to repalce an early.

[Eugene]

Don't stop soaking the pistons yet. You want to free up any stuck rings. Keep applying the solvent and cranking the engine over by hand every so often.

Also, see if you have compression on all four cylinders - finger in the spark plug hole will do - checking to see if you have any stuck valves.

Congratulations on getting tyhe engine unstuck.

Eugene

[KenHigginbotham]

John, I have purchased several manuals. I'll see if I can figure out on my own exactly which set up I have. Thanks.

Eugene, I don't think my jewell is at full power... Seem to have a slight skip and a loss of compression maybe - not a whole lot of power. You maybe on to something...

Thanks,
Ken

[beaconlight]

Junk in the carb will do that skip and loss of power. A weak coil will also as will poor timing. There have been a number of threads on this subject lately.

Bill

[KenHigginbotham]

Thanks for the suggestions. I think my dad put an after market carb on it several years back. I'll check the things you listed. Guess I should do a compression check to see if any rings / valves may be sticking...

Ken

[Eugene]

Do the compression check. Then try some Seafoam in the fuel tank and crankcase to loosen up the rings. Then run the tractor at various engine speeds for a number of hours over several days. Then do another compression check.

My 49 Cub sat for 6 years. The more I operate the tractor the more power it seems to have.

I use a plastic portable, boat gas tank to operate the tractor when the hood is off.

Good luck

Eugene

[KenHigginbotham]

I don't have a gauge to do the compression check. Any suggestions?

I found the original carb. I think I'll try to rebuild it. I'll post a picture so you guy's can confirm it is a Cub carb...

I found a gravity feed paint gun at Lowe's for $59. Think this will serve my puposes?

Thans for all your help...
Ken

[KenHigginbotham]

Here's a little better picture once I got it runing again:



Ken

[Rudi]

Ken:

Get the final from either TM Tractor or JP Tractor Salvage. Also, as there is no duty on US made parts re-entering the country, it may pay to also check out Chown Tractor Parts. David had some good used parts for Cubs. Depending on which end of the US you reside in, the shipping should not be unreasonable. They have shipped complete blocks for large tractors for a good price to the States.

Also, yes that is an IH 3/4 updraft Carb.

Consult the Lurker Carl's Cub Carb Fixes article on the Cub Manual Server BEFORE you order any parts etc. Make sure you get the IH Carb kit.

The Cub looks nice. And I am sure it is going to give you many hours of enjoyment.

[Ron L]

Ken. That's a good picture to use for your "Avatar"!

[Todd]

Make sure you get a good carb kit from IH not a junk one from e-bay! Also be carful you dont break the Idle tube!

[rdunstan]

Ken I found a drawing on the web somewhere giving the dimentions for a crank. Bought some rid stock and with the help of a tourch, stout vice and hammer bent it to the correct dimentions. I drilled business end and used a roll pin. After grinding the roll pint ot hte correct length, I have a perfectly servicable crank.

Total cost was aboout $2.50 and the project took less than 30 minutes. Hardest part of the job was centering the hole for the roll pin. Is pretty satisifying to crank her up with my very own homemade crank.

[KenHigginbotham]

Cool - How much would you charge me to make me one up?

Ken

[Ron L]

Here's a drawing from Rudi's site............. http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Sketch ... 0Crank.jpg

I wouldn't think a roll pin would hold up as well as a dowel pin.....