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Grand dad's Cub
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 11:47 am
- Location: Ga, Douglasville
Grand dad's Cub
Hi, Great forum. I've tried reading through the intro stuff here and have a tremendous headstart already - I am going to restore grand dad's cub and need some advice.
To start with, the tractor ran a year or so ago, but the other day when I tried to crank it, the engine was froze up. I suspect the pistons just got tight. It's been inside, out of the rain so I thought it would be ok. I read the suggestion to pour some kerosene in the cylinders for a week or two and then try to get it to move. Does anyone else have any suggestions. Is this safe - As long as I take it easy?
I also downloaded a spec sheet so I can determine what model cub I have...
Thanks -
Ken
To start with, the tractor ran a year or so ago, but the other day when I tried to crank it, the engine was froze up. I suspect the pistons just got tight. It's been inside, out of the rain so I thought it would be ok. I read the suggestion to pour some kerosene in the cylinders for a week or two and then try to get it to move. Does anyone else have any suggestions. Is this safe - As long as I take it easy?
I also downloaded a spec sheet so I can determine what model cub I have...
Thanks -
Ken
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- 10+ Years
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- Zip Code: 10314
- Location: NY Staten Island & Franklin
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 11:47 am
- Location: Ga, Douglasville
Thanks - I 'll do it and post my progress...
I suppose it'd be a good idea to drain the oil & refill it before I try to start it if I can break it loose...
Just curious, How much of a nightmare would it be to find parts, etc, if I take it completely apart? From browsing the forum here, it seem parts are not that hard to come by...
kh
I suppose it'd be a good idea to drain the oil & refill it before I try to start it if I can break it loose...
Just curious, How much of a nightmare would it be to find parts, etc, if I take it completely apart? From browsing the forum here, it seem parts are not that hard to come by...
kh
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- Team Cub Mentor
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- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 12:50 pm
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- Location: OH, Circleville
Ken I think you will find parts pretty easy to find. If you can't find something, let us know and we'll help.
Yes, once you break the engine free, change the oil before you try to start it. The kerosene you pour in the cylinders will drain down past the rings into the crankcase and dilute the oil.
Yes, once you break the engine free, change the oil before you try to start it. The kerosene you pour in the cylinders will drain down past the rings into the crankcase and dilute the oil.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 23701
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
- Zip Code: 63664
- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
- Location: Mo, Potosi
Ken, if you live in freezing country does it have antifreeeze in it? Hopefully it hasn't frozen and cracked the block or head letting water in to a cylinder. No longer than it's been setting it shouldn't be too hard to free up. One note, if the strater drive and/or flywheel ring gear get worn the starter can lock when you try to start it, which also locks the engine. To check this loosen the starter bolts a little and try rocking it in 3rd gear. If it's the starter drive locked to the ring gear you will hear a pop and the engine will turn.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 11:47 am
- Location: Ga, Douglasville
Well, I tried the kerosene yesterday. Poured it in and did some rocking back and fourth but couldn't get it to break free. I'll try this for several days and see what happens. I didn't think about the starter locking it up, I pull it and see if it makes any difference. I assume it has some kind of throw-out bearing that may stick.
Is the PTO engaged when the lever is in the forward or backward postion?
The numbers indicate it's a '53. The numbers on the plate include a 'J' at the end. Is this of much significance?
It has gotten below freezing here but the tractor is inside so I don't think it got gold enough to freeze inside the engine. Looks like there was some antifreeze in it - just not sure how much.
Thanks for all your help.
Ken
Is the PTO engaged when the lever is in the forward or backward postion?
The numbers indicate it's a '53. The numbers on the plate include a 'J' at the end. Is this of much significance?
It has gotten below freezing here but the tractor is inside so I don't think it got gold enough to freeze inside the engine. Looks like there was some antifreeze in it - just not sure how much.
Thanks for all your help.
Ken
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- 10+ Years
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- Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub
1955 Cub - Location: PA, Berwick
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 23701
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
- Zip Code: 63664
- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
- Location: Mo, Potosi
Pto engages when lever is moved to the rear.
The starter has a drive on a screw thread that when you pull the starter rod spins forward and engages the ring gear on the flywheel. If the teeth on the drive or ringgear become blunt on the edges the drive will sometimes lock with the teeth end to end rather than engaging. When this happens the engine will not turn. This frequently can be freed by putting tractor in 3rd and rocking a rear wheel, though sometimes it is necessary to loosen the starter to free it. That may not be your problem, but it is a possibility.
The starter has a drive on a screw thread that when you pull the starter rod spins forward and engages the ring gear on the flywheel. If the teeth on the drive or ringgear become blunt on the edges the drive will sometimes lock with the teeth end to end rather than engaging. When this happens the engine will not turn. This frequently can be freed by putting tractor in 3rd and rocking a rear wheel, though sometimes it is necessary to loosen the starter to free it. That may not be your problem, but it is a possibility.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 11:47 am
- Location: Ga, Douglasville
Cool - Thanks for th info on the clutch and starter. I'll be sure and try not force the engine to break loose - I guess I could cause more problems than I'd be fixin. I'll continue to try the kerosene / gentle rock back forth for a week or so and see what happens.
I found a local dealer that say's he can order a lot of the stuff I may be needing...
Thanks,
Ken
I found a local dealer that say's he can order a lot of the stuff I may be needing...
Thanks,
Ken
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 661
- Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2003 9:09 pm
- Zip Code: 18603
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub
1955 Cub - Location: PA, Berwick
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 9:38 am
- Zip Code: 00000
- Skype Name: deniscub
- Tractors Owned: 1929 Farmall Regular
1946 Farmall M
1948 Farmall H
1948 Farmall B
1952 Farmall Cub
1971 Cub Cadet 108
1939 Minneapolis Moline UTS - Location: Hermanus, Western Cape. South Africa.
Something that is often overlooked and that can also prevent the engine from turning is a stuck valve. If moisture has got in there one or more may be sticking, open the side cover and see if you can move all the valves freely. Denis.
Fortunate to live in one of the most beautiful places in the world.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 11:47 am
- Location: Ga, Douglasville
Report: No progress. Refilled with more kerosene and rocked some more. Removed the starter and no apparent problem there either.
I have tried the hand crank. It was about gone (almost broke), when I started and I finished it off - Broke the tip in two. I'll get another crank and try it along with the rocking.
Hum... Guess I could look at the valves before I remove the head.
Thanks,
Ken
I have tried the hand crank. It was about gone (almost broke), when I started and I finished it off - Broke the tip in two. I'll get another crank and try it along with the rocking.
Hum... Guess I could look at the valves before I remove the head.
Thanks,
Ken
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- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 24144
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 12:50 pm
- Zip Code: 43113
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: OH, Circleville
Ken - you can try white vinegar instead of kerosene. It will take a couple of weeks or more of soaking with either one before they will work.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
-
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 23701
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
- Zip Code: 63664
- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
- Location: Mo, Potosi
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 11:47 am
- Location: Ga, Douglasville
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