Farmall Cub

Just rebuilt my carburetor, bought correct fuel line from TM and upon re-assembly, I stripped what was left of the
fuel inlet threads on my carburetor....... I'm in southwest Missouri.... is there anyone close who can helicoil these
correctly? Just got off the phone with Carquest.....I can get the 1/2" x 20 helicoil kit for $61.00. What is the charge
to have one fixed using the helicoil jig I've read about in this forum?

Thanks,

Kelsey Rutledge
Mt. Vernon, MO
(417) 437-0426

Go here http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Specialty%20Services/index.htmland scroll down to Cecil Diamond's add

Rick

Just curious, but about how many forum members have the jig and use it to helicoil?
todd

Todd W wrote:Just curious, but about how many forum members have the jig and use it to helicoil?
todd

I have one that I just got, but I have not done a helicoil with it yet...I don't want to do one at all yet until I try it out on a "junk carb" ... the problem is that it seems that none of these carbs are truly "junk" and can't be salvaged. (except for one that is a chronic leaker and is toast, but it has already been helicoiled ) That is the main reason I don't want to do one yet...I am too scared to try it on someone's carb until I try it as a "test case"...

Mike in La Crosse, WI

Todd W wrote:Just curious, but about how many forum members have the jig and use it to helicoil?
todd

I got one from Bob at Cecil's Cubfest last month...Haven't used it yet.

I have one too, but haven't tried it. I prefer letting Cecil do it. Experience is preferred. Ed

Kelsey, I sent you a PM. Stan

Kelsey , When you get your carb repaired, get a fitting and compress the Ferrel BEFORE you install it . I believe this and cross threading account for 99% of the thread failures.

Boss

It also helps to install the fuel inlet line before you tighten down the carb to the manifold.
Cecil taught me this sequence;
1) Carb upside down attach the choke linkage.
2) Carb rightside up attach the throttle/governor linkage.
3) Mount carb to manifold loosely.
4) Install & tighten fuel inlet.
5) Tighten carb to manifold.

Never fails.

Peter

Ghostbusters! i know bad joke

Peter Person wrote:It also helps to install the fuel inlet line before you tighten down the carb to the manifold.
Cecil taught me this sequence;
1) Carb upside down attach the choke linkage.
2) Carb rightside up attach the throttle/governor linkage.
3) Mount carb to manifold loosely.
4) Install & tighten fuel inlet.
5) Tighten carb to manifold.

Never fails.

Peter

OK... Rudi... this needs to be a Cub tip of the week or a how to... Too good to be forgotten...

Mike in La Crosse, WI

WisconsinCubMan wrote:

Peter Person wrote:It also helps to install the fuel inlet line before you tighten down the carb to the manifold.
Cecil taught me this sequence;
1) Carb upside down attach the choke linkage.
2) Carb rightside up attach the throttle/governor linkage.
3) Mount carb to manifold loosely.
4) Install & tighten fuel inlet.
5) Tighten carb to manifold.

Never fails.

Peter

OK... Rudi... this needs to be a Cub tip of the week or a how to... Too good to be forgotten...

Mike in La Crosse, WI

I agree !!....worked for me...

While this recommendation will not save the instant carb, it could for others out there that are yet to experience the stripped thread syndrome. The original IH carb is made of soft aluminum or pot metal that does not withstand repeated wear and stress from removing and replacing the ferrule nut on the gas line. Evenutually, the threads may give way, get cross threaded and you are faced with a helicoil rethread project. What I recommend as a means to prevent or reduce the liklihood of this from happening is to convert the fitting on the gas line to a flare fitting. You will need a flare union as pictured, a flare nut for the gas line, and if you do not already own one, a flaring tool. The union is turned into the carb as a semi-permanent connector to remain in place in the carb and the flare nut and union are used in the future to accomplish any connect and disconnect of the gas line. Whenever the carb needs to be removed a wrench is used to hold the union ridgid in place in the carb while another wrench is used to loosen the flare nut on the gas line.

Not to take anything away from the flare union idea, but to add that the 5/16 brass fitting can easily be rethreaded to 1/2-20 that is on the carb with a die nut of the correct size. A little thread sealer on the threads completes the conversion and makes it easy to remove if the time ever comes to do so. This worked extremly well for me on my IH carb that had bad threads. Stan

Gentlemen,

Thanks for all the input ....... appreciate the help!

Kelsey Rutledge
Mt. Vernon, MO