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I don't think this technique will work for a pilot bushing. The difference is that the piston in the pressure regulator valve is a slip fit and you need only a slight "grab" internally to remove it. This can be done without swelling the outside diameter of the piston using the dowel rod and wedge because there is a clearance between the bore and the piston.
The pilot bushings are friction fit already and any internal expansion will increase the friction fit and prevent the bushing from pulling out.
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
Yup, been watching Hope this makes sense... Cub Tip of the Week! December 1st, 2010
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I've never tried it, but I have heard that packing the area behind the pilot bushing with grease, then inserting a rod that's a close fit into the bushing, then tapping the rod with a hammer will force the bushing out. The grease exerts hydraulic pressure against the back of the bushing to push it out. I don't know if the area behind the bushing is closed, which it would have to be for this to work. Anyone else ever hear of this?
Again, I've never tried it, but it's supposed to work.
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When you get older, lack of pep is often mistaken for patience.
(1956 and 1948 Cubs)
Got the new oil and filter changed. Cleaned the relief valve and just a little polishing and all back together. Oil pressure is back to normal. Thanks for all the help.
Ron in Mid Missouri
The grease idea for pilot bushings works very well, I have done it several times but never on a cub.
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