Confused with new wire harness hookups Please help

[Galen]

Despartely need help now that I have installed my new wire harness. I think connections up front are right its the ones behind the dash plate that I'm not sure about. Although I have juice from battery to starter motor switch, when I turn key and pull stater rod ammeter won't budge and tactor starter won't turn. I have a two prong (blade) key ignition switch probably not original to my 61 Cub. orange (to coil) wire on one prong, Lt.green to 'L' on voltage regulator? Is order important? Ammeter wires-grey to 'bat' brown to starter switch. Fuse has two wires- I dont have any idea where they go... Can anyone help me through this. Winter is coming and I need to get my tracter together soon. Any order to wires behind light switch-not the square switch.

Any help appreciated-Galen :

[Donny M]

Galen,

This may help:http://www.atis.net/CubFAQ/cubwiringlate.jpg

[Galen]

Thanks- I have used that diagram but my key switch and light switch are different (newer) My light switch is round not square. key switch has two spade connectors (presume one for the orange and one for the light green wires + fuse??). No clue how to get the thing fixed.
Galen

[Jim Becker]

If your starter won't turn, your problem is more basic than the small wires in the harness. For it to turn over, you just need the battery, cables, starter and starter switch.

If your starter is controlled through the igniton switch and a solenoid, it isn't stock and won't match the original wiring.

[Galen]

The key switch and light switch were working before I took them out. Didn't the Cub have a key ignition switch and round light switch in 1961? They appear to fit perfectly in their respective places. Foolishly I did not keep track of the wire connecstions before their removal.

[beaconlight]

Galen I will give you a step by step because you sound so desperate.
To make the starter turn you only need 2 wires. They are the battery to ground (to the chasie) and from the battery to starter. These are very large wires (some people would call them cables). Then when you pull the starter rod the starter should run. Of course the tractor won't start, but the starter will turn the engine over. Clean and reconnect your battery connections also, put a little grease on these connections so that corrosion doesn't give you a problen in the future. If this doesn't work loosen the starter mounting bolts, jiggle the starter to make sure that it is not hung up on the fly wheel. Then tighten the bolts and try again. If this doesn't do it either your battery is dead or your starter is bad. Let us know how you make out. These directions are because you stated that you have a starter rod that you pull. The wiring diagram mentioned in an earlier part of this thread is for a starter rod also. This means that you have a flat bar coming off a piece on top of the starter that the starter rod connects to. That piece is the starter switch. You can clean and tighten where that fastens also. Of course that could have gone bad also.
Keep us posted and we will help further if needed. Oh by the way do you have a battery charger?
Bill
Bill

[Matt Kirsch]

No, these did not have a key switch. My '70 manual still shows a push-pull kill switch, and my '67 has a push-pull kill switch. They didn't go to keys until the mid '70s, I believe. The hole is an industry-standard size (3/4"?) for panel-mount switches, so the fact that the key switch fits doesn't mean that it's correct for that tractor. Sorry.

Like they said, if the starter won't turn, it has NOTHING to do with the wiring under the dash. The starter is not part of that wiring harness. ALL the power goes through the big cables from the battery, through that pull rod switch on the starter.

The light switch only controls the lights, and the key switch only controls the ignition.

[Galen]

Possibly the (solinoid?)switch on the starter motor is not working- I get current to the starter but when I pull the rod- nothing happens even though the hot (-) battery cable and brown wires are tightly attached. I had starting problems before my harness replacement but chalked it up to a short in the old wires... Does this make sense?

Can anyone tell me where the two wires from the fuse go? Is there a ground wire from the light switch also and what is the order of the terminals to wires. I have a later (round)light switch not the early square one. My cub is from 1961. Do the orange and light green wires connect to the ignition switch (a keyed one in my case). This is frustrating and I do appreciate those helping me!

[Bigdog]

Galen, it is difficult to answer your questions as what you are describing is not standard for the cub and one can only guess as to the correct connection without seeing the components. What most of the guys are trying to tell you is that there is no solenoid in the starter circuit. The cub uses a mechanical heavy duty switch which is mounted on the starter body and to which the battery cable connects. If the starter motor is not turning over when you pull the starter rod, power is not getting to the starter motor. Either the switch mounted on the starter is bad or you are not getting power from the battery to the switch.

[beaconlight]

Or the starter is bad.
Bill

[Bigdog]

Or the starter is bad.
Bill

You're right Bill, sometimes we overlook the obvious.

[beaconlight]

I suffer from that all the time. Also hitting the wrong keys when i type.
Bill

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Galen, have you checked that you are still showing voltage from the lug on the starter wsitch to ground when you pull the starter rod. A bad connection will let it show voltage normally, but lose voltage when it tries to pull a load.

[beaconlight]

1. Do you have a 6 volt or a 12 VOLT SYSTEM?
2. DO YOU HAVE A MAGNETO OR A DISTRIBUTER?
3. Do you have a regulator? a cut off?
4. How familiar are you with electricty and schemetic drawings.
I don't know is a good answer too. It lets us know where to start with our explanations.
If there is any thing else you know about the wiring or the tractor that you have not told us yet tell us that too.
There will be more questions.
Bill

[rleggitt]

Galen,

Allow me to add my two cents worth here. I had the exact same thing
happen to me with my starter. I replaced brushes, springs, and still
no start. Come to find out the piece of metal in the switch on top of
the starter motor that makes connection had gotten turned just enough
to not make a good connection. You can check this by removing the
switch on top of the starter motor and look for dis-coloration, and check
to make sure that it is making good contact.

Hope this helps.

Russ L.