Brake repair - is shaft shot? w/pics

[dirtyred]

scrivet i got a drum i'll give ya. came off a back end of a cub i bought for the finals. you pay shipping and i'll send it on its way.

[Scrivet]

I am disapointed no one noticed the wheel with weight still attached to the final drive and the disk plow still mounted. Borrowed the nephews service truck.

[dirtyred]

we didnt want to comment on the sissy way of doing it

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

With Jeremy's truck you could just leave the final laying there and let the cub down on it, then just pick up complete unit. The interesting part will be getting the shaft back in without damaging the seal at the differential.

[Gary Dotson]

I worked on one, a while back, that looked exactly like this one. I acquired a used drum and it fit just fine. The drum is soft cast iron, while the shaft is a hard steel alloy, so most of the wear will be in the bore of the drum. I don't know if you'll be as lucky as I was, but give it a try.

[danovercash]

I noticed, but this is my first read. You will need to separate the final from the wheel disc to reassemble.

[Rabbit Holler Flash]

we didnt want to comment on the sissy way of doing it

Lil brother always did have a way of finding unusal ways to get jobs done. We both studied under a excellent get r done man,EJPs dad Edgar, the most calculating man i ever knew. Still use alot of his methods n advice.
By the way Scrivet i did notice you were using somebody elses driveway to "shadetree in" I am starting to worry if i can get in my driveway with all the new residents. A second cub new plow ,new disk plow ,another mower deck ,a new disk ,landscape rake i gota get home more often to defend the home front from all them side saddle tractors n stuff

[Scrivet]

...... You will need to separate the final from the wheel disc to reassemble.

Great! Now I have to take it apart again, separate the wheel from the final, and then put it back together the correct way! Then when I get the replacement drum I'll have to do it all over.

dirtyred;
Thanks for the offer but I'm about an hour from JP's in Fredericktown. My list of needed things is growing, when it gets to big I take a drive down and load up. Usually take the car for self control, a truck and trailer would be to much temptation! I'll keep your offer in mind if the drum does like "John *.?-!.* cub owner" 's did and explodes and I can't get to JP's.

RH Flash;
I was thinking of Edgar when I decided to do it all together. "If you take the wheel off that's five MORE bolts........"
And when you're pulling in that driveway who keeps it graded and the weeds cut???????? And who does most of the fixing on that oversized tricycle of yours????? (note to John *.?-!.* cub owner - NO comments about the "minor" noise from the transmission or it'll be in your shop!!!!!)

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

..........(note to John *.?-!.* cub owner - NO comments about the "minor" noise from the transmission or it'll be in your shop!!!!!)

take a number and stand in line.

[challenger]

I was studying the pictures and reading the comments. First, I think you are absolutely right that the person who put the brake band on, put the pin in the band from the wrong side. Then he may have moved the hub out some to line it up with the band -- fatal move. This put the set screw off-center on the half-moon key rather than squarely on center. This tended to pivot the key down on one side and started the slippery slope to disaster. It created a situation where the set screw could not do its job. Rather than push straight down on the key it now had a slight side push effect because of the teeter-totter effect of a half-moon key. With constant back and forth action the set screw worked its way loose down the slope pulling the hub even farther out on the shaft. Eventually, the set screw was holding nothing and the loose hub sheered the key off. Lesson here is that you should make sure the set screw is centered on the half-moon before you tighten it down. You can do this by carefully scribing the center of the new key before you insert it in the shaft. Then, position the hub over the half-moon as best you can and test the location by gentle setting a sharp, new set screw down on the key just enough to mark it. Also mark the position where the side of the hub now sits on the shaft before you slide the hub back to check whether you on center. Adjust the hub position as necessary against your mark on the shaft.

[Jim Becker]

Lesson here is that you should make sure the set screw is centered on the half-moon before you tighten it down. You can do this by carefully scribing the center of the new key before you insert it in the shaft. Then, position the hub over the half-moon as best you can and test the location by gentle setting a sharp, new set screw down on the key just enough to mark it. Also mark the position where the side of the hub now sits on the shaft before you slide the hub back to check whether you on center. Adjust the hub position as necessary against your mark on the shaft.

Or you just shove the drum against the step on the shaft and tighten it down. If that is past center, the wedging action will just push it against the step.

[Scrivet]

Challenger;
Your description an analysis is spot on. Except the woodruff key didn't shear, as a matter of fact I put it back in after cleaning the slot in the drum and shaft. It did make a fine gouge for the brake drum center hole.

Actually now that I think about it the drum may have been on backwards as well. The gouged out section is up in the "after picture". I think it was down when I first looked at it. The drum just slid off the shaft without loosening the lockbolt so I don't really remember. How could you really tighten the bolt with it next to the final drive? I mean wouldn't it work loose and slide down the shaft then start to gouge out the..............................oh, this is like Jeopardy, we got the answer first.

Rudi;
I thought that step on the shaft was a good spot for the drum to set. That's how I put it back.

[Rudi]

I thought that I had posted to this thread especially with the interesting repair project that I have. But I can't seem to find it.

Now.. funny you should mention that step on the shaft. Took me a while but I figured out that the brake drum had to be seated up tight to that or it would be too far forward on the Woodruff key for the lock set screw to seat properly. Had to do it a couple times and consult with one of my experts on the phone before I was able to get it done. Took me a while to figure out the brake drum alignment with the band as well. However once done.. prima Updates in a new thread maybe tomorrow with pics. Suffice to say I have a on me face.

[challenger]

I think we have pretty well beaten this one to death except to add this. Anyone who has to open the final drive to work on his brakes should make it a routine practice to carefully check the drum to see that it is properly seated back against the step on the drive shaft, that the set screw is good and tight and the drum is otherwise secure to the drive shaft. With normal forward and reverse braking, the drum naturally undergoes a good amount of stress and will work loose and may cause more serious damage to the keyway, the hub or the shaft if it is not good and secure. I have never been inside a housing yet but I am on my way because my right brake pedal has zero resistance and freely goes all the way out. I have not had a chance to peek inside yet to see what I may be facing.

[redman36]

are the brake drums for 1951 farmall cub # 350805R1 and 350805R2 the same?