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valve spring part #

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PA_to_TX_Cub
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valve spring part #

Postby PA_to_TX_Cub » Mon Sep 06, 2004 12:38 pm

I need some help with the IH part number for valve springs. I have a '48 Cub. I do not have the rotocaps.

I got 8 new valve springs from CNGCO, IH part # 251262R2. These new springs are 0.21 inches longer than the springs I removed from the Cub. The new springs are 2.03 inches long and have 9 coils, the old springs are 1.82 inches long and have 7 coils. The service manual says the springs should be 1 31/32 inches.

My problem is that I can't get the keepers on if I use the new springs, even with all 9 coils pressed right up against each other. There's just not enough of the valve stem sticking out from the bottom of the spring. The valve is seated and the tappets are screwed the whole way down.

Can one of you guys with a parts manual confirm that a '48 without rotocaps takes a 251262R2 spring?

Thanks,

Mark
FCUB 30086

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Mon Sep 06, 2004 12:47 pm

That is what my manual calls for. This may be a stupid question, but you did turn the spring seat so it extends up inside the coils and not down didn't you. Also when you get your problem straightened out put a little dab of grease on the valve stem where the keepers seat. that will hold them in place while you release the valve spring.
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you are part of the problem!!!

Donny M
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Postby Donny M » Mon Sep 06, 2004 12:48 pm

My P/M confirms that P/N :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

PA_to_TX_Cub
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2004 11:41 pm
Location: TX, Leander

Postby PA_to_TX_Cub » Mon Sep 06, 2004 11:06 pm

Thanks for the quick replies. The new springs are in. I put a dab of grease on each keeper, thanks John.

I hate to admit it, but apparently I just wasn't trying hard enough the first time. I did soak the new springs in parts cleaner before installing. This removed the black paint which bought me an extra 40 thou when the springs were fully compressed. I used a KD 700 valve spring compressor. I modified it by cutting off the bottom fork just after the pivot point, and cutting a notch in the bottom fork so it locked into the bottom lip in the block.

Mark

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Donny M
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Postby Donny M » Mon Sep 06, 2004 11:12 pm

Mark,

Nice job :!: :!:

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WJ
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Postby WJ » Mon Sep 06, 2004 11:53 pm

Thanks for that photo of the modification. That will be helpful in the near future.
If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use duct tape.


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