How to remove pin in steering housing?

[allenlook]

Hey guys,

The bottom of the steering housing (or front bolster, whatever we want to call it) has a large round gasket surface, with 5 bolt holes and one pin hole.

My original bolster has the pin in it, but my new one does not... How the heck do I get the pin out of the old one, so I can put it into the new one? It's stuck in there really good, and there's only 1/4" of it sticking out to get ahold of. There appears to be no way to get to the back of it, either...

Any suggestions?

[Bill V in Md]

Allen,

I believe you are referring to the dowel pin, which is used to correctly position and align the steering housing (bolster) and base. If you cannot retrieve the pin in your old unit, you should be able to buy one at a good hardware store. I suppose if you are sure that you have the bolt holes aligned correctly, you could eliminate it. I believe its sole purpose is to make assembly easier. I sympathize with you in trying to remove the old one - there's not much to grab hold of. Good Luck.

Bill V.

[Paul_NJ]

Allen

I haven't checked, but I'll bet the dowel is just a short piece of standard diameter cold rolled steel rod. Perhaps you could purchase a short piece, chamfer the ends, and tap it in.

Since you're up to your elbos in your steering box, could I ask you a favor? I'm still trying to get mine back together (so far unsuccessfully), and I'm checking everything. Would you kindly measure your worm shaft lower thrust bearing dimensions (ID, OD, thickness)? I just tried to order the two worm shaft thrust bearings, and found out the lower one isn't available anymore. The dimensions of the top thrust bearing are (OD=1.38", ID=0.920", t=0.25"). Is that the same as your's. I just want to be sure I'm not trying to put a square peg in a round - well you know.

Thanks. Hope your's goes smoothly.

Paul

[Jim Becker]

From the parts book, it looks like the dowel should have stayed in the lower part. 25086DA still shows good on Glade & Grove at about $9.

[parts man]

$9 for a dowel pin?! Crap,, looks like I'm gonna have to start saving those too!

[Slappy]

Allen,

The pin fits snug, but should not be too hard to get out. I suspect that rust is holding it in the casting. I'd try some PB Blaster and hammer taps for a day or so. If it won't loosen, heat it with a map tourch and I'll bet it will come out then.

If you are still in a pinch (no pun intended), I have a good pin I removed from my Cub (long story about why I thouht I needed two pins) that you can have.

Some of the others are right, you could make your own, but just looking at the pins, they are highly polished and have the look of hardened steel. This may explain the high price. And while I'm no expert, I think that this area takes a lot of abuse and the pin provides a necessary anchor point between the upper and lower casting, so I don't think I'd elect to leave it out.

[Dale51]

If you are going to junk the old casting then drill a hole as close as you can on each side of the pin or even better as many holes as you can around it this will relieve stress on the casting around the pin then you should be able to pull it out easy.

[allenlook]

Thanks for the replies, all. I tried the Vice Grips method and managed to munge the pin into oblivion within 5 minutes. But I had a piece of rod that was within 1/64" and after some quick emery cloth work and a little hacksaw action, it suited just fine. The pin doesn't look structural to me, I think it's just an alignment aid. Everything's back together and working excellent. There is *zero* play in the steering, which amazes me.

BTW, I got one heck of a *nasty* gash in my thumb. Accidentally ran it down the edge of the big helix gear in the steering box when I was cleaning it up. That sucker is *sharp*. Went into my thumb 1/4" and 1" long and I didn't even feel it. I didn't know until I saw the blood running off my elbow a short while later.

But NOW it hurts

[allenlook]

Paul,

I'm sorry I didn't get your message before I buttoned everything back up!

Allen