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I know a few of you have cleaned your complete front axle housing in the electrolysis tank.
What I am concerned about is the brass/bronze? bushings for pivot point & spindles. I have read that NO aluminum, brass, bronze, or copper should go into this cleaning process. What did you guys do about the bushings when you dunked your front axle for cleaning?. I dont even want to attempt to try removing them.
Then came Bronson
Speaking of electrolysis, I read a good trick on one of the other sites that is good for the inside of axle housings, blocks, etc. He used a stainless steel wire that he put inside a plastic tube and cut several notches in the tube. That gave better action inside the passage.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
My assumption is that you do not want these metals to be the sacrificial cathodes. I left the bushings in my front axle and they look fine after a week of 10 amp electrolysis. It would be bad (and I read it would be *very* bad) to use stainless as the sacrificial cathode. You can refer to the links on Rudi's site for all that info.
Well allenlook I guess if it never did any damage to yours after a week then I might just try it.
BTW, I have used a stainless broil rack as the sacrificial culprit for over a year and have not seen any problems.
Then came Bronson
It was what was done with the water in the tank after use that was the problem.
I kinda answered my own question.
This is what I found.
http://antique-engines.com/stainless-st ... trodes.htm
Last edited by WJ on Tue Aug 31, 2004 7:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use duct tape.
So far I haven't seen a problem with the two front axles that I did in the tank.... I don't imagine that a week or 10 days at 10amps would cause that much of a problem, especially considering how much grease, dirt, goo and other crud is around the brass..... to me it just seemed to make em cleaner...
Oh, keep yer eyes peeled fer me latest project!!!!! Posting soon.
In response to "no stainless" in the tank. Stainless steel works much better
than any other metal I have ever used.
I also, have left two complete front axles in the vat for up to a week at
6-10 amps on 12v dc and the bronze bushings [don't think they are brass]
shows no sign of pitting, discoloration, or any other dectable negative
I think the, "don't put brass, aluminum, etc (metals other than steel or
cast) in the tank came from the fact that it will not clean them. This
process, the best I have been able to glean, will only affect iron oxidation,
rust. Brass croddes and oxidizes but does not rust neither does aluinum.
I could be mistaken about this but think I am ok.
Does "metal so clean it is ready for primer, with next to no work" interest you???
Then if so, read up on the de-rusto tank on the manual server. You will be impressed.
Example - I brought my buddy Gordon Trail's tank to CubFest Northeast 2004 and set it up with a centre disk from a rear wheel in it. It was the most popular workshop in the 2-1/2 days there. Lots of interest. In fact, I have been asked by dozens of people who saw it for directions to make one.
3 or 4 have already been made. The next generation tank for me is documented and will be posted shortly -- stay tuned.
Thanks alot fellers, Your proven hands on experience has given me the decision that My axle tube will be going into the tank hopefully tomorrow as soon as I get the remaining spindle out. The first one required a lot of filing & emery cloth before it slipped out.___ Here is the most in depth article that I found. It is kind of long but interesting.
Then came Bronson
Wow, that's a LOT of information on electrolysis! I haven't used the bulb in series to reduce the current flow, as all of the parts I've tried to restore have been what he would consider "casual parts".
I had two tanks going at once, one small one with a 1A battery trickle charger that worked just fine, and the larger 15 gallon tub with a 2/10/50A charger on it set to 2A, and then to 10A when I was comfortable with the process.
The gauge really does help you determine whether or not you have current flow, and without it, you aren't getting much electrolysis as far as I can tell. I also accidentally shorted the pieces one time and it was obvious from the sound of the charger.
Yep, works great on the cast parts - just doesn't remove unsightly hair as well as you'd think
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