CUB clutch dis/engagement

Sun Aug 29, 2004 9:13 pm

Today took and moved my tractors around in the garage. Getting ready to sell my 8N and I wanted to do a couple small things to it before I place it on the market.

I moved my Cub where the 8N was, it's a tight fit and you have to sneak up on it. I noticed that when I trying this the clutch does not have much free play. Never really paid that close attention to it before, but after just getting off the Ford and onto the Cub, this is when this was really put to my attention.

The Ford is like most other clutched vehicles I have. You have quite a bit of play on the pedal before it engages. The cub has very little, I have re-read my book and I think that I adjusted the way the book states.

NOW if I were to give the pedal less movement, before it hits on the pressure plate arms, the throwout bearing holders or carriers hits the pressure plate and makes one heck of a lot of racket.

I would guess with the clutch pedal held all the way down to where it stops on the boss on the torque tube, I may have maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch until it's fully enguaged, to where there is no pressure from the throwout bearing.

The carbon throwout bearing is not touching the pressure plate arms when the clutch is enguaged.

Honestly speaking I don't really care for how this thing works at all.

I guess what I am trying to say, is that with the peadal bottomed on the stop and no matter how slowly you let it out, the tractor lurches and sometimes kills the engine. I just can't get that slow steadyness like I can with any other type of clutch. My main concern is when I get the mower deck on and have the PTO running, what's going to happen then?

What am I missing here?

Now that I am ready to post this, I AM VERY CONFUSSED. I don't know how any of you will be able to follow what I am saying.

Thanks for any help,


Mon Aug 30, 2004 7:39 am

Your clutch throwout bearing should have 1/8 of clearance when the clutch is all the way up. You can obtain this by adjusting your clutch pedal to give one inch of free travel before it contacts the throwout bearing. I have driven tractors with clutches as well as cubs most of my life, and have never noticed much difference in a cub than anything else. If you are used to driving a Ford, the difference in the way you rest your foot on the pedal takes a little getting used to. If your cub hasn't been used much it may have some rust on the pressure plate or flywheel that will cause it to grab. Try putting it in 3rd and slipping the clutch a little to see if that helps.

Mon Aug 30, 2004 8:40 am


The bearing will hit the clutch fingers if the fingers are not adjusted high enough. It's difficult to do without splitting the tractor, but many with small hands are able to do it. The fingers should be 1 1/4" above the backer plate, and then your pedal can be adjusted according to the manual.

I was able to do it with my huge mitts by using a screw driven 1 1/4" through a thin stick as a measuring tool.

If the bearing carrier is allowed to strike the fingers, it will quickly destroy things.

Mon Aug 30, 2004 9:40 pm


I didn't realize that I needed to do any more adjustment to the clutch fingers. I bought the new cluth, pressure plate and throwout bearing from my local Case/IH dealer and assummed it was correctly adjusted.

However, before I place the flywheel and clutch assembly back in the tractor, I put everything back together as if it was actaully on the tractor and bolted the flywheel down to a milling table and checked that all the fingers were of the same hieght. Which they are all within .010" from one another.

You talk about the "backer plate" Are you refering to where it mounts to the flywheel, OR should I say from the back side of the flywheel to the top of the arms to where the throwout bearing rides? That this should be 1-1/4 inches?

IF this is the case I did not check that measurment when installing everything together. To be real honest, this is the first time I even time I even given a second thought of checking them fingers, most of the time you put in a new clutch assembly and go.

NOW after everything is "done" I just purchased a real nice book from Case/IH a couple weeks ago, something I did not have while rebuilding this litte beast!

WOW! I'd hate to think about having to split that thing again. I can't remember how much room was in there to work to do any adjusting to them fingers, SINCE you have experience, in those tight little places, want to make a trip over to west central Illinois? Hey we could even go up to Mt. Pleasant Iowa to the Midwest Old Threashers reunion this weekend. Have lots and lots of old tractors, cars and gas and steam engines, LOL!!!


YES I have right at 1/8 of an inch between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate arms. The way I obtain that was with the slot on the clutch pedal under the floor deck. Meaning with the clutch pedal up from the return spring pressure attached to the pedal to the deck stopping on the floor deck. I am now real worried with what Geore said about those pressure plate fingers may not be adjusted correctly. Like I said I checked them all for being the same height, but never gave it a thought about it being adjusted out the correct amount. Then again assuming that since they all were out the same amount they would been all correct. That's what I get for assuming. Unlike yourself, I never can remeber being on a IH cub, most of my experience has been with Ford, Case (hand clutch) and Massey Harris tractors.

Wed Sep 01, 2004 12:17 am

I was thinking today a way (maybe not good way) to explain my clutch problem, maybe there isn't, it could all be me.

My clutch pedal don't have the just so right feeling, You know that feeling that you get when your drawing back a compond bow? Takes a little effort to draw it back at first then after that threshold point it's pulls easier and can keep it drawn back easily? You know that past the center part.

Well my clutch don't have that "past the center" type of feeling, it's about the same amount of pushing action from the start until it bottoms out on the stop. You know how most normal clutches you can come up to a stop light and push down on the clutch pedal and wiat there untili the light changes with the clutch pedal down to the floorboard? Even though it not advisable to do this, especailly with the carbon style cluch throwout bearing.

Sorry for my ignorance here and I know guys this was a real DUMB way to explain it, but it was the only thing I could really compare it too.
I keep thinking there had to be something wrong with the clutch way before I got the tractor, (this was the reason I ended up with the tractor, cluth was out) everyone who used it said it had a flaky clutch and was real jerky.

I am really leaning toward the pressure plate arms being out of adjustment.

I figured it was due to somthing in the whole assembly, but now everything has been replaced with the exception of the flywheel and the throwout bearing yoke. SO, I had my friend try it out who use to use the tractor all of the time several years ago and he said that is the exact same way he remembered it too. Herky-jerky, with very little free play.

I checked out the yoke when I had the tractor torn apart and checked it for being straight and everything appeared to be line up correctly.

AGAIN, sorry the stupid comparison, didn't know who else to explain it unless you was here feeling and seeing this for yourself.