How to work on hood/gas tank *safely*?

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How to work on hood/gas tank *safely*?

Postby allenlook » Fri Aug 27, 2004 2:05 pm

I'm nervous about working on this hood/gas tank combination, even with the gas tank drained - it's not the liquid gasoline I worry about so much as the gaseous gasoline, which is the real explosion hazard.

Do you guys do anything special before sanding, wire brushing, or heaven forbid welding on the hood/tank assembly?
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Postby johnbron » Fri Aug 27, 2004 3:03 pm

You can put dry-ice in the tank & weld on it or run a flex exhaust pipe into it from a gas engine Mower,Etc. and the exhaust is "SUPPOSED" to render it safe so I have been told by an old-timer tank welder`er.
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Exhaust...

Postby allenlook » Fri Aug 27, 2004 3:23 pm

So, leave the gas engine running w/the exhaust going into the tank? And just weld quick before you asphyxiate :!: :D
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Re: Exhaust...

Postby johnbron » Fri Aug 27, 2004 3:33 pm

allenlook wrote:So, leave the gas engine running w/the exhaust going into the tank? And just weld quick before you asphyxiate :!: :D



:twisted: What!!, Ya means ta tell me you dont own a gas mask in this day & age of turbulent times. :?:
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Postby Rudi » Fri Aug 27, 2004 3:37 pm

Allen:

The best thing to do is to neutralize the tank. Empty it, leave it breathe for an hour or so. Then flush 3 or 4 times with clean water. Let it dry. Then go to town :)

Make sure that you seal the tank after you are all done whatever it is you want to do.

I would also use some bb's, old ball bearings etc., to rattle around in the tank to help free up whatever loose/semi loose rust particles there are, prior to purging the tank. That way the water will remove 99 percent of the particulate. After that, use your air nozzle on your compressor to make sure that it is all clean.

Maybe some of the other guys have a different/better?? system, but this worked for me. I also sent my tank to be professionally done. Cost me $80.00Cdn, but well worth it considering I did not have to do any of the work, put up with the stink and dispose of the hazmat waste. Would have cost the same or more to have gotten Por 15 or other equivalent tank sealer product.

You won't regret doing the tank, but I can guarantee you, you WILL regret NOT doing it :!: :roll:
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Postby johnbron » Fri Aug 27, 2004 3:42 pm

Guess what Rudi, I was browsing through My Valu-Bilt catalog the other day and lo & behold I see they sell Red-Kote sealer in there for $20 per quart. That is the first time I have seen it for sale retail.
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Gassy.

Postby allenlook » Fri Aug 27, 2004 3:43 pm

Well, yeah - I've got the gas mask, but it came with the Cub so it's only good against Mustard Gas and whatever was around when the Cub was made!
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Postby Rudi » Fri Aug 27, 2004 3:46 pm

JB:

Didn't know they sold it retail. The guy who did my tank says it is only available for commercial accounts here.

Oh, btw. got an answer from LocTite.

He says that 81252 is a valid part number and is searchable on theyre us or canadian sites - http://www.loctitie.com. There is also a distributor link there. And of course, it is only available throu industrial distributors. Well worth searching for though. I know I am always going to have a couple of cans in the shop at all times.
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Aug 27, 2004 6:49 pm

Flushing a gas tank with water may make it safe enough to sand on, etc. but not for welding. When I was fairly young a neighbor brought an old barrel down that he wanted dad to cut then end out of. It had held gasoline, but not for several years. they rinsed it out a couple times and then Dad fired up his welder to cut the end out. Thank goodness the plugs were out of the barrel. There was a boom and the concussion blew leaves off the tree directly over the bung hole in the barrel. No injuries, but 2 very startled men.
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Postby beaconlight » Fri Aug 27, 2004 8:57 pm

I have repaired a number of gas tanks. I solder them with a soldering iron. I put an air hose in so that fresh air is running all the time. Gas fumes are explosive from some where about 14% gas to about 40% if I remember the numbers correctly. The air constantly running keeps the air fume mixture in the non explosive range. This would work for sanding or wirebrush8ing for painting.
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Gas tank

Postby S.H.A.F.T. » Sat Aug 28, 2004 8:11 am

The proper way to inert a tank is to add dry ice. THe CO2 given off my the substance will create a non-explosive atmosphere within the tank. The dry ice will sublime completely and there is nothing more to do or get rid of. You must wait a bit so that the CO2 gas will displace the air in the tank.

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Welding...

Postby allenlook » Sat Aug 28, 2004 10:15 am

I don't plan on welding directly on the gas tank itself, actually I was thinking of welding those missing clips onto the front of the hood assembly! But it's too close for comfort anyway with all that electricity shootin' around.

I'd be just as happy bolting them on truth be told...
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Postby johnbron » Sat Aug 28, 2004 10:42 am

I had no problem welding the hood clips & the head-light mounting bolts to the hood with no #*#-BANG~OR~EXPLOSION-#*#, Maybe I should count my lucky Sparks Huh?.

BTY, I used a 110 powered mig welder.
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Never welded...

Postby allenlook » Sat Aug 28, 2004 4:56 pm

I've never welded, but maybe I could handle something like that - I'd just have to repaint where I burned the paint off :shock: :?
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Postby beaconlight » Sat Aug 28, 2004 9:29 pm

I hear what you are saying about dry ice and it is a true best way. Equally true if someone had access to nitrogen tanks or another inert gas they could keep the tank filled with that, but how many of us have these at our finger tips. Most all of us have an air compressor that we can use with a continuous stream of air to keep the gas to air mixture in the non explosive range. That is of course after emptying it out and cleaning other ways
Any old telephone man that had to test man holes or cable vaults knows about the upper limit of explosion where the percentage of explosive gas is so high in regards to oxygen that it is not explosive and the lower linit of explosion where the explosive gas percentage is so low that it is no longer explosive and need to ventilate to keep it that way. Just watch out for that guy in the middle, he will take you to your maker.
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