Farmall Cub

I have a 63 cub low boy with 12 volt. Should this be Negatine or positive ground? I have a ITC book on farmall's but it is up the country.
Thanks
Bill

When the switch was made to 12 volt, the ground was switched to negative ground. (I was thinking this was mid 64.) Either way, I believe it will be negative ground.

Thanks.
The tractor is 175 miles away and till recently I had no idea so much help ia available. You guys are great. I thought that it was a 63. I'll check that out when I get back to the country. From the postings that I have been following I'll have to take the casting numbers and dates too. I can see that I'll have to do that on my Buzz saw too. It is powered by an engine that looks like a cub engine. It has a lever to to engage or disengage the clutch so that the belt doesn't move. There a couple of different notches on the handle. If I remember correctly It had different gearing at each notch. If I ever get it going again I will check that out.
I wondered if what I had been told when I bought it that the engine was off an old IH baler. I see that Jack donoven ( CUB STAR) posted that there was such a thing on July 16 2004. I would sure like to see a picture or a place to get the books on such an animal.
Bill

I think the model 37 and model 46 balers could be purchased with either the C-60 (cub) engine, or the C-113 (A) engine, or a V-4 Wisconsin air cooled. We have parts books for both models.

Bill, I think Donny has an auxillery engine like your Buzzzzzzzz-Saw engine that he brought back from his Oregon scavenger hunt. Maybe he can shed some light or share information about it for you. He dont get up till noon though so be patient!!.

parts man wrote:I think the model 37 and model 46 balers could be purchased with either the C-60 (cub) engine, or the C-113 (A) engine, or a V-4 Wisconsin air cooled. We have parts books for both models.

Ok! Do the books you mention go into the engine? What are they and how can I get them?
I pulled out my 1960 Chiltons from the basement and it covers voltage regulators quite well. From it and postings I presume that Cubs use single point Delco Regs. This because every one says ground the F term of the reg. The book says that is ok on a single point reg but it will will burn out contacts on a dual point Delco. On a dual point they say to remove the wire from the F term of the reg and ground the F at the Gen.
Fortunate I still have my old Tel Co. contact burnisher to clean the Reg points with. The good book also states that the voltage reg relay and the current limiting relay points operate 70,000 to 75,000 times an hour. They reccomend that replacement is more often than not the wisest course of action if cleaning the contacts or points doesn't do it because of metal fatigue. I may not be saying this in tractor talk but in telephone talk but there is where the pensioin comes from.
All this talk and the engine being up the country have me ready to make a trip up there this afternoon. Have to see what the calandar shows for the rest of the week. One of my cousins kids is coming into town for the Republican thing later in the week. They are from Arkansas, I have promised to meet her and her family. Have never met her two kids so I don't want to miss out on that.
Again thanks to all you guys. I now have ideas on how to test and fix some of my problems.
Bill

Beaconlight, those old contact burnishers come in pretty handy. When we converted the last of our offices to digital, I saved mine along with a few other odds and ends that were no longer used. From one retired telephone man to another, Howdy!

Should have saved a 35c set too but I didn't think of it. I liked the wooden box they came in a lot better that the metal cases for the 35d. I think the wooden cases took shocks better.

As I wipe the sleep from my eyes;

The Aux engine I have is a C-60. I haven't looked into the drive unit yet. It does have 2 pulleys on it. Looks to me that they connect to the flywheel in some fashion but it's all covered. I plan to use the engine for 49-2 (Roland) if I can resist using him as a parts tractor. Sometimes the urge is unbearable. but I've managed to keep him as intact as when I got him; - the snow of course.

Note the time of the post

Donny M wrote:As I wipe the sleep from my eyes;


Note the time of the post

***********************

Yup Donny, I guessed your wake-up time pretty close. It shows you posted at 10:AM so that would make it 12:APM Texas Tea Time.

As a transplanted Yankee(Vermont) I am try to learn the ways of the south get it done before ten then lay low and take your afternoon nap go back to it when the sun starts down. then again there is nothing that $@#* important that need to be done in this heat. it can wait till fall

Since I've lived in this area almost all my life I don't have a problem adjusting to that. Since I have retired I do have a problem, however, getting away from my old idea that if something needed doing it had to be done right away because I may not have time to tomorrow. Life is tough.

I took some nimbers off the unit while I was up the country. It is an IH power unit . The serial num gave me trouble with the first digit it was either a 6, G or C the rest was ITC11836. The block casting number was 251341R6. On the rear of the Gear box, clutch housing was a casting number 353494R1. There is an arm sticking out of the gear box with 3 detents, neutral and two speeds. There is a cog belt pully on the shaft on the rear of the box.There is an added starter 6 volt. It is a delco 1109611 and further to the right on the plate there is 1E10. The Mag is an IH and the plate says J4161351.
One strange thing that I noticed was that the bottom of the oil filter case has a pipe nipple with a cap on it so that you can drain and flush out the sediment that settles in the filter case. I had forgotten all about that. There is no generator and you could not fit one on it because of all the hardware feeding the top radiator hose. It looks origional because under the hood is all the paint that is left and it is red. Also this plumbing nightmare is castings that bolt to the top opf the block. I also noticed that there is a seperate radiator. It is not as 2/3 radiator that bolts to a casting as on my Low Boy. This dilly has a full, real bottom radiator tank. In another posting I mentioned the manual oiler with a tubing leading to the intake manifold casting.

Big Dog had thoughts about the year of my Low Boy. I have the serial now it is 25081 J. Does that help? I took a raft of other numbers that I thought might help but now I fear that they are part numbers and not casting numbers. I will list them any way as they might help.
Starter Delco ser 1107327 8A11 12 v
left of hydrolic tank 360719
left of block there is an L3 and immediately below it 251341 R8
IH carb no numbers, got new gasket from Case dealer in town of Franklin last thursday, got a 2nd as spare too.
Dist 653898 R1
Bell housing 351686 R3 with L3 immediately below it.
If I need to get more numbers it will have to wait till next trip north but hopefully before I have to go to a wedding in Saratoga Springs the end of September.

beaconlight,

That s/n would make your tractor a 1968.