OK,
During lunch I took a look in to see if I could give the tie-rod a go.
Here's how to get one off if it's stuck:
1. Remove the tie-rod end keeper and nut, also remove the clamp and bolt.
2. Clamp the tie rod in your vise, but don't grab it by the outer pipe, you have to grab it right where the pipe ends and the solid piece that goes into the steering arm meet. (opposite end of the where the threads are).
3. Find yourself a "pounder" which could be a heavy pulley, a big gear, a short heavy piece of pipe. Thing is, it should have a hole in the center just abit bigger than the outer pipe of the tie-rod.
4. Slide your "pounder" over the outer pipe of tie-rod.
5. You now need some washers (good thick ones) with a hole the same size as the inner piece of the tie-rod which you want to remove.
6. Slide a couple of those washers onto the tie-rod til they come up against the outer pipe.
7. Now find a small piece of pipe, or a deep socket, or big nuts, that will fit over the tie-rod, but leave about an inch of the tie-rod threads exposed.
8. Now thread the keeper back on ( this is the piece that holds the steering at the spindle )
9. Apply some torque.
10. What should happen is, as you thread the keeper on, you will be affectively "pulling" the inner piece out of the outer tube. You will need a pipe wrench to thread it up tight.
11. Once it is snugged up. If the inner is still not moving, slide your "pounder" toward washers with a few good solid raps to free things up. If it comes free you can use the pounder now to get it the rest of the way out.
P.S. With one side out, I proceeded to set up my jig to remove the other tie-rod. When I started to tighten up the keeper, it would not get tight. In fact when I grabbed onto it, the tie-rod pulled right out by hand no problem.
I think most of the problem with these tie-rods getting stuck is if the outer pipe gets bent, or dented etc...it really causes some headaches with binding. Rust does not help matters either.
Hope it's clear enough in words. Sorry no pics.
