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sleggett
10+ Years
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Posts: 16
Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2004 7:20 pm
Zip Code: 61745
Location: IL,Heyworth

New member,New owner

Postby sleggett » Fri Jul 30, 2004 9:13 pm

All, great site!! I just bought a 1964 McCormik Farmall CUB serial# 223947 J, I own a couple Cub Cadets but this is my first CUB!! I'll probably have alot of questions, (So far the D16's work fine Jim B) I had oil In the water, but after 4 flushes with water, seem's like the oil Is about gone. Since there Is no water pump, I hate to use a flushing agent to rid the system of all the oil, short of taking the radiator off and boiling it out, I don't know what to do. There will still be some oil in the block's water jacket's, anyway, any Idea's would be a great help! Thank's!!

rleggitt
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Posts: 251
Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 10:05 pm
Location: MS, Oxford

Postby rleggitt » Sat Jul 31, 2004 8:37 am

Hi Steve,

My name is Russ Legg"i"tt from Oxford, Ms. Welcome to the most helpful
site in the universe. I know you wil enjoy the CUB. They are wonderful
little machines when used to do what they were designed to do.

Welcome :lol: :lol: :lol:

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cowboy
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501 Club
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Posts: 3414
Joined: Sat May 15, 2004 11:10 am
Zip Code: 49229
Location: MI, Britton

Postby cowboy » Sat Jul 31, 2004 9:00 am

:D Hi Steve welcome the the Cubbin place to be
Seems I have your brother mine is a 64 # 223744 J only about 203 built between ours. Make sure you premix your anti-freeze before you put it in as weight difference between water an anti-freeze may keep it from circulating. It would be a good idea :idea: to change all your fluids the trans seems to collect moisture. the first-reverse shifthin fork in mine was most likey broken when the water in the trans was froze and someone tried to shift it. good luck its a cub gotta love it. :!:
Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you. 1964 cub. Farmall 100 and 130.

"Those that say it can’t be done should not interrupt the ones who are doing it.”

sleggett
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 16
Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2004 7:20 pm
Zip Code: 61745
Location: IL,Heyworth

Postby sleggett » Sat Jul 31, 2004 10:21 am

Thank's guy's, I do plan on changing all fluid's, point's, cap, rotor, normal new buy tuneup. I would like to try some Gator blades for the Woods 59, I think they would realy cut good, never had Gators befor, again thank's!

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Posts: 21534
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
Zip Code: 63664
Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
Location: Mo, Potosi

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sat Jul 31, 2004 10:25 am

Congratulations on the new cub and welcome to the boartd. Never had any Gator blades myself, but have read up on them, and they appear to require more power than a standard blade, and you don't have a surplus turning the 59 to begin with.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!

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Jeff M
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Posts: 948
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 6:00 am
Zip Code: 04071
Tractors Owned: Cubless, but living vicariously through others
'61 Ford 641
Kubota BX 2370
Location: ME Raymond

Postby Jeff M » Mon Aug 02, 2004 6:44 am

Hi Steve, and welcome! I, too, have had numerous Cub Cadets before my Cub, and the biggest difference you'll notice is how much more quite and smooth that little water-cooled 4-cylinder is than the air-cooled single. Sure makes mowing less fatiguing--I don't even have to use my ear protection, although this makes rock contact w/mower much more dramatic.

Good luck, and enjoy!!
Care and feeding of family's Ford 641 ('61)
Kubota BX 1860

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F-I-T
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Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 9:31 pm
Location: Tallahassee, FL

Postby F-I-T » Mon Aug 02, 2004 6:58 am

Steve:

As to cleaning the oil out your cooling side, you might want to try about a quart of the "purple cleaner" stuff you can find at most any car parts place. It' mildly alkaline and should do the trick. Follow with some clear water rinses and that shold get most of the oil out. Letting it sit over night with the cleaner in it will help it to soak and work.

If it's really rusty, I sometimes use a pint of phosphoric acid (very mild stuff). That will help reduce any red rust in the system and convert it to inert black oxide. Use the acid only after you get the oil out or the phosphoric acid won't even make it through the oil film.

Again, rinse once or twice with clear water.
Frank-in-Tallahassee
'56 JD 70D // '90 JD 855 // '50 Case VAC // '48 IHC Cub "Boo-Boo" // '41 JD "H"
http://www.fboerger.com
F-I-T's webpage.....ALWAYS under construction !!!


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