Now I'm really confused...

[George Willer]

Here's what I read off the block last evening: 2 20 W with spaces between the numbers and the "W" Looked to be a cast of screws mimicking a plate with screws holding it in place. Below that series: 251341R2 L I hope these are right, as I do have to wear bifocals, and the focal length of sight is at the wrong place. Maybe this will help.

Thanks,

Rick

Rick,

The plot thickens! You have more detective work to do. Each major casting will have a casting code on it somewhere. If the year is important to you, you should check each one to learn the year the casting was made.

So far it seems you have a 1950 serial plate on a tractor with a 1951 engine and a 1958 to 1963 grille. None of these discrepancies will effect it's usefulness in any way.

[SundaySailor]

George,

Normally I wouldn't care all that much about the year. But, I do plan on taking care of maintenance and rebuilding things necessary to keep this tractor up and running for a long time. I have a 1977 Nova I recently bought that is factory original and it just turned 38k miles. Because of that, I would prefer to have my cub in a similar state. So, where else do I need to look for casting codes to narrow down the date? Some how, some way, I'm going to beat Mr. Murphy at this, and make (or at least help) him rewrite his own laws!

Thanks for the help and tips!

Rick

[George Willer]

Rick,

I'm most sure of the casting number on the block as shown in the FAQ, since that's my tractor.

I'll try from memory on some other locations:

Radiator tank... on the bottom surface.

Torque tube... right side behind clutch pedal.

Touch control... left side below fill hole.

Transmission case... just ahead of the level check plug, low on left side.

Final drives... inner surface above fill hole.

right axle tube... bottom surface.

Don't let Murphy grind you down!

[SundaySailor]

George,

I'll try to check some of the numbers either this evening, or I'll have to do it over the weekend. I'm really learning a lot trying to figure this bugger out. BTW, since I bought this cub, I've started to notice a fair number of cubs in my area. Never noticed before, but now I know what they look like (plus it is gardening season), I seem to see them quite a bit. Bad part is, there aren't any IH case dealers within 35 to 50 miles of me. So, I will have to take a day off work just to go to a dealer and get parts unless I do order on line.

Regards,

Rick

[Jim Becker]

George hit the locations right to the best of my memory. You just have to look for them. The one on the bell housing/torque tube is right next to the clutch pedal but is usually hidden by the wiring harness. Makes it a little hard to spot. I think there is another (probably on the block) that shows when the pan is removed. Never checked one to see if it matched the one on the side of the block.

Don't worry about this from the maintenance perspective. Most engine parts are effective with stated engine numbers. You will find the engine number stamped into the block near the carburetor. Sometimes you need to look at the part number on existing parts (like the connecting rods, to get the right bearings). Most other parts can be identified by inspection, like counting teeth on a gear. You just need a Parts Catalog (that you actually read) to sort it out.

You aren't one of those guys that won't use a headlight if the wrong date code is stamped on the back are you?

[SundaySailor]

I'd probably still use the head lamp. I'm just concerned with the serial number mix up, that when the time comes for refurbishing, I will run into some headaches. It would be really nice to have it full factory (date code correct would be real nice), but I also realize with the age of the tractor, it probably isn't possible. As long as I can get it just this side of spit shined and polished, I would be happy. It will be a work tractor anyway, but I do want the parts to be as correct as possible.

Rick

[Jim Becker]

I don't think you will have any particular problems from the maintenance side. Just remember that you can't put total faith in the serial number callouts in the parts book.

Cubs were quite popular in NC, so you are probably in pretty good shape on local sources.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Some how, some way, I'm going to beat Mr. Murphy at this, and make (or at least help) him rewrite his own laws! Rick

O'tools Corolary says, Murphy was an optimist!

[SundaySailor]

Hope these numbers are right and from the right locations:

Radiator tank... on the bottom surface 350886-R2 (this number is right under a slot where you can see the crankshaft pulley)

Torque tube... right side behind clutch pedal 351686-R1 .

Touch control... left side below fill hole 354383-R1.

Transmission case... just ahead of the level check plug, low on left side 1-16-7.

Final drives..inner surface above fill hole: Don't know what final drives and location are just yet. (Need someone to point me to a photo so I can find that number.)

right axle tube... bottom surface 350798-R7.

Tough crawling under this tractor, especially when the Woods mower is mounted. Not to mention the ant nests I disturbed, and they decided to crawl down the neck of my shirt!

As I was doing this task, I was thinking of an old Johnny Cash song that had to do with him working in an automobile factory. He'd take home a piece of automobile part everyday. When he finished, he had a 1957, 1958, 1959, 1960, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964 automobile when it came time to get the title. One of the rear fenders had a fin, and the other didn't. Sure sounds familiar to me!

I'm almost at the point where I may just call this tractor: Mr. Murphy.

[George Willer]

Rick,

You won't have Johnny's problems... there is no title, so it won't weigh 60 pounds, and when you go to put in the transmission, the holes will be there.

The numbers you found are mostly part numbers and won't help much with dating. The casting codes will be numeral-numeral-letter and will look like this example... *7 25 S* which would be July 25, 1950.

[SundaySailor]

Is there someplace (url) where I can see where I'm supposed to be looking. These poor eyes are having a tough time at this. I will have to look them up later, as time doesn't permit right now. Plus, we're getting storms in the PM that are kinda rough. Don't want to be around all that metal with lightening all around. I prefer my hair to remain "non-curly" if you know what I mean.

Thanks,

Rick

[SundaySailor]

Hope these numbers are right and from the right locations:

Radiator tank... on the bottom surface 350886-R2 (this number is right under a slot where you can see the crankshaft pulley) Unable to see this one yet. Bad storms when I get home.

Torque tube... right side behind clutch pedal 351686-R1 . {2 7 T}

Touch control... left side below fill hole 354383-R1. {1 5 T}

Transmission case... just ahead of the level check plug, low on left side 1-16-7. {1 16 T}

Final drives..inner surface above fill hole: Don't know what final drives and location are just yet. (Need someone to point me to a photo so I can find that number.) I think I'm looking at the right place now... {1 16 T}

right axle tube... bottom surface 350798-R7. Unable to see because of storms.

Found another number on the inner side of the left wheel I think is near where the brakes are located.... {1 17 T}


Now, if I read this right, we are looking at a 1950 cub tractor. For Example, 1 16 T means January 16th, 1950. This would then match the serial number tag on the engine of 101902! Right? One would then surmise that maybe the grill has been changed (no one I've talked with knows anything about that), and that the rest of the tractor because of the other stamped numbers is indeed original. Anyone here agree or can help?

Indeed this has been quite a job of detective work. I just hope I'm right, and not going down some primrose path that is laden with quicksand. BTW, I've found yet another 1950's model cub with a very nice Woods 42 (c? I think) belly mower. Needs rear tires, but sure does run very well.

Rick

[George Willer]

Rick,

Now you're on the right track, and chasing down the right casting numbers was helpful. Except for the engine which obviously has been changed and the replacement grille, you have a 1950 demonstrator... originally white. All your latest casting numbers are right for the serial number you have.

[SundaySailor]

Thanks so much for the tips George. I have an idea. I will look under the hood with a flashlight and see if there is any sign of white paint. If it was there originally, I would think whoever painted the tractor wouldn't take the time to repaint that area with red. I'm really tickled that the castings numbers matched up as well as they did. On the engine block casting, I would just about have to agree with you on that. Reason is, even after mowing for over an hour, the oil pressure is still showing towards the center of the oil pressure gauge. From my past experience with older automobile engines (289's to be exact), whenever you've run an engine for a while, the oil pressure will drop a bunch once the engine warms up. This usually is an indication that the bearings and other stuff has worn from years of use.

BTW, have you or others had any luck with resoldering the neck of the radiator? Mine leaks rather badly there, and it appears that a decent propane torch might be the ticket for the repair if the area was exposed for soldering.


Thanks again for the help! It is very much appreciated.

Rick

[Donny M]

SundaySailor,

I haven't had any experience soldering the neck but I have soldered the over flow tube. It solders just fine if you have everything clean. It's all brass and takes solder good.

Hope this helps.