Engine valve 'job'? and welcome a new Cub, please.......
Posted: Tue May 18, 2004 6:26 am
Welcome to me! and thanks to you guys - this site is great and has already answered lots of questions. The story: I'm a shadetree mechanic and am rebuilding a '62 Cub (yellow/white) for use in my sister's 3.5 acre property. The Cub was used for golf-course mowing with gang mowers for years, and suffered a lack of maintenance, but is basically sound. We got it with a belly mower, sickle-bar and 2 sets of 3-reel gang mowers. *heavy sigh* the disk harrow and York rake disappeared, though.
Plans are to find a front-end bucket, snow plow and whatever other cool implements that would be of use to my sis in her quest to develop the perfect suburban property - no heavy farming is planned or allowed.
So - a weak engine. My brother-in-law said you could drive it or run the mower deck - but not both at the same time. Compression was 75, 90, 25 and 100. I found pretty badly burnt exhaust valves in cylinders one and 3. This Cub is not going to be a perfect restoration; nor is it going to spend days out in the field pulling plows.
Is it acceptable to replace the valves (all of 'em, probably) and grind/lap them in place? I'm not into a major engine job and the cylinders look good (and hold oil).
Thanks in advance
Rob
Plans are to find a front-end bucket, snow plow and whatever other cool implements that would be of use to my sis in her quest to develop the perfect suburban property - no heavy farming is planned or allowed.
So - a weak engine. My brother-in-law said you could drive it or run the mower deck - but not both at the same time. Compression was 75, 90, 25 and 100. I found pretty badly burnt exhaust valves in cylinders one and 3. This Cub is not going to be a perfect restoration; nor is it going to spend days out in the field pulling plows.
Is it acceptable to replace the valves (all of 'em, probably) and grind/lap them in place? I'm not into a major engine job and the cylinders look good (and hold oil).
Thanks in advance
Rob