Farmall Cub

Greeting all, I am in my finall stages of completing my cub, in order to get it running, i just need to install my magneto and carb... Only problem is, the carb is giving me a real hassel.. After a long battle with the screws that hold the throttle and choke plates on, I finally got em off though they are now rendered useless. I sorta bent the upper half of the carb while exerting exreme pressure on those screws, but now worries, I got it all leveled out again with a few small C-Clamps. Now, my only finall problem is - the top of the carb, i guess this could be called the manifold mouting flange, is warped about a 16 of an inch - maybe a fuzz more. I can't seem to get a good hold on it with my trusty C-Clamp method, and was wondering if this surface could be machined on a mill or bench grinder without interfering with the action of the trottle plate. I probably wouldn't want to take more than a 16 of an inch or so off. Perhaps I could just take it over to the bench grinder and hold the surface purpendicular to the side of the wheel briefly enough to true it up?? I figure if I have to take much metal off, I can just double up two carb-to-manifold gaskets??
I read the last post about carb warpage, but it dealt with the other surface of the carb it seems... Sorry about beating this dead horse topic one more time, but I had to ask.
Peter Reynolds

Peter. 1/16th of an inch seems like a lot. Make sure you can't align it closer. It should be fairly flat so air won't be sucked in at that point past the gasket. As far as machining, it would be a good idea, but George Willer would be able to tell you if .062 is too much and if doing it by hand and it not being perfectly square from original would matter.......

Peter,

I resurfaced the manifold face of 1 of my carbs on a surface plate with some #220 paper. Use a figure 8 pattern to help keep things flat and even.

Peter,

I'm no machinist, but I play one on the internet. There are a number of ways to fix the problem, but here's maybe the most practical for you...

Tape a sheet of wet or dry paper to a sheet of glass and work the part on it in random figure eight patterns. You should end up with a nearly perfect flat surface. The best part... you will have done it yourself!

I use a flat file to even mine up.

I had one so warped (major Cub carb problem) that I put JB weld on it to build it up and then brought it back down like George mentioned.
Has worked great for a couple of years.
Mike

Thanks for all the advice guys, I taped some sand paper to a sheet of glass then rubbed that warpage right out of it.. I started out with a flat file, but the sandpaper worked much faster to my suprise. It took a good 15 minutes of the glass and sandpaper method to get it down.. Looks really nice now, and while I was at it - I took the bottom half of the carb and shaped it up too.. You can really see where you remove the warpage when there are spots of shiny metal and of the drity rough metal... This carb iis really going to do well when I get it back on.. I guess 50 years of heat will warp the aluminum pretty bad. Thanks for the tips - problem solved.

Peter Reynolds

1949 cub... (When I get this thing going, I am gonna call it "Weldy" on account of all the places this thing has been welded back together by all the farmers over the last 50 years)

Peter Reynolds wrote: You can really see where you remove the warpage when there are spots of shiny metal and of the drity rough metal...

Peter. In the future you can refer to this as "removing the high spots", as we call it in the trade.........

just as an aside. the surface plate / glass method of resurfacing is used to correct heads on any of your small engines, Kohler, Briggs, etc. while rebuilding. the high heat in that area make it a must do if you remove the head for any reason.

artc wrote:just as an aside. the surface plate / glass method of resurfacing is used to correct heads on any of your small engines, Kohler, Briggs, etc. while rebuilding. the high heat in that area make it a must do if you remove the head for any reason.

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Sounds like a good idea for small engine heads but where do you get a sheet of sandpaper big enough to make a figure-8 pattern with a head .

For what it's worth guy's, I had a piece of flat steel that i had surfaced down to a flat surface, you can get the steel most any size to accomadate any size head or carburator, and then i use lapping compound to surface what ever i have. Here is a question for any-one to help me with, How the heck do i get them there little message bodys over to my message box? I have tried everything. Cub-Hoser

If you are talking about these little guys , just include one as you type your message by simply moving you pointer over to the desired icon and left clicking with your mouse. I usually leave a space or two on either side as if you were typing another word. They will show up as something different until you preview your message prior to sending. Try it you'll like it.

C.H.,

Dan's right, it's quite simple to click them into your message. They won't look right until you click on preview.



You can also go back and change them.

Cub-Hoser wrote:Here is a question for any-one to help me with, How the heck do i get them there little message bodys over to my message box? I have tried everything. Cub-Hoser

If your asking about above , then just click on the "QUOTE" box above that particular message .................

Thanks for the Information on the little face's, by the way George I hope that's not a family photo! Thank's again. Cub-Hoser