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Cub 22 Sickle Bar Mower
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- 10+ Years
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Cub 22 Sickle Bar Mower
Picked up a Model 22 mower today. It didn't come with a belt. I downloaded Rudi's manual but it doesn't have a parts breakdown. Anybody got a part number or suitable substitute?
Also, It needs a repaint job. I assume from what's left on the original that it is International Blue with cream/white accents on the pitman arm etc. Correct?
Lastly, any source for decals?
Thanks,
Dennis (51)
(The OTHER Dennis)
Also, It needs a repaint job. I assume from what's left on the original that it is International Blue with cream/white accents on the pitman arm etc. Correct?
Lastly, any source for decals?
Thanks,
Dennis (51)
(The OTHER Dennis)
- Dan England
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You're on the right track with the paint colors. You can see some pictures of my L-22 in the Lo-Boy part of the photo gallery on this site. It is mostly the same colors as a Cub-22.
Size of the belt depends on which drive pulley you have on your PTO shaft. The L-22 uses a third size belt.
Pulley 451 356 R2 uses belt 452 197 R1.
Pulley 457 291 R1 uses belt 457 292 R1.
Size of the belt depends on which drive pulley you have on your PTO shaft. The L-22 uses a third size belt.
Pulley 451 356 R2 uses belt 452 197 R1.
Pulley 457 291 R1 uses belt 457 292 R1.
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The paint decisions that are available at the Archives only go to '57, so after that we don't have complete information to work with. IH could have done a number of things with paint that none of us know about. I'm willing to stand corrected on anything after that date. That said, I'm inclined to think the mowers weren't painted red. It appears that the blue color held at least through '57. Although I got my L-22 mower with my '59 Lo-Boy, I don't know that the mower was always with it. It was repainted blue based on original paint that was still showing.
A lot of the Cub implements changed colors, I think mostly as the tractor was moved from farm tractors to lawn and garden (like the blades that were yellow or white in later years rather than red).
Here is a picture of a later yellow mower that appears to have never been repainted. Note that some sort of red is showing on the front support. IH eventually discovered primer, and I'm guessing that is what is showing in this picture.
Also note that the grass rod is white, which is what the later brochures show for both the inner and outer grass rods on yellow mowers.
I think the early pitmans were cream, later went to white. I used antique white on mine, which was somewhat of a guess. The small amount of white still showing on the pitman bearing was hard to identify for shade. It could have even been cream, but I don't think so.
I don't know what a 2222 is.
A lot of the Cub implements changed colors, I think mostly as the tractor was moved from farm tractors to lawn and garden (like the blades that were yellow or white in later years rather than red).
Here is a picture of a later yellow mower that appears to have never been repainted. Note that some sort of red is showing on the front support. IH eventually discovered primer, and I'm guessing that is what is showing in this picture.
Also note that the grass rod is white, which is what the later brochures show for both the inner and outer grass rods on yellow mowers.
I think the early pitmans were cream, later went to white. I used antique white on mine, which was somewhat of a guess. The small amount of white still showing on the pitman bearing was hard to identify for shade. It could have even been cream, but I don't think so.
I don't know what a 2222 is.
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FWIW, My 22 mower is a mostly uniform rust with black greasy accents. There are small patches of blue showing through. A partial decal "Cub 22" is also showing. The Pitman arm is a cream color that could also be a dirty oxidized, grease stained white. The outer grass rods are white (cream?) while the inner one is IH rust.
I'm more concerned with use but since its due for a repaint it doesn't cost any more to go with the original colors. I'll probably use Rustoleum primer under a coat of IH Implement Blue.
Anybody have thoughts on decals?
Dennis (51)
(The other Dennis)
I'm more concerned with use but since its due for a repaint it doesn't cost any more to go with the original colors. I'll probably use Rustoleum primer under a coat of IH Implement Blue.
Anybody have thoughts on decals?
Dennis (51)
(The other Dennis)
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K time to get in on this one. I have learned an awful lot from the board and I have learned that Jim is right on, on almost any paint question, and I agree here.
My Cub-22 is RED, whole thing is RED, except where the RED has worn off. That is BLUE. The mower has sat covered for the last 30 odd years or so and there is next to no rust, just a little bit of light oxidation. Even the pitman arm is like new. Part number still visible, original paint very clear. The pitman arm appears to be Cream. Not gonna make a blanket statement, cause I cannot prove it beyond a doubt, but it sure seems to be original.
I think I am going to invest in a digital camera -- sure would help on stuff like this!
My Cub-22 is RED, whole thing is RED, except where the RED has worn off. That is BLUE. The mower has sat covered for the last 30 odd years or so and there is next to no rust, just a little bit of light oxidation. Even the pitman arm is like new. Part number still visible, original paint very clear. The pitman arm appears to be Cream. Not gonna make a blanket statement, cause I cannot prove it beyond a doubt, but it sure seems to be original.
I think I am going to invest in a digital camera -- sure would help on stuff like this!
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- Bus Driver
- 10+ Years
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In the picture of the yellow mower posted by Jim Becker, the hanging bracket has washers welded over the bolt slots. I saw one mower modified by welding upper extensions on this bracket which had bolt holes (not slots) for the upper holes in the torque tube. The lower bolts would let the bracket hang as designed and the upper bolts would prevent the bracket from moving upward. That resulted in two bolts each side holding the mower. Perhaps this should have been the original design. The original system is helpful to permit lifting the mower with both arms and hanging on the bolt in place. Washers welded on require inserting the bolt while the mower is held up. I hope several will share their thoughts and experiences about these modifications. If yours is not modified, do you think it needs to be?
Luck favors those who are prepared
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I also noticed the washers that Bus Driver is talking about. The slots on mine for "hanging" the front mount have recessed beveled holes (slots). I need to know does it take a special tapered head bolt to mount the mower or do the washers we see in the pictures have a taper to them which I'm assuming is to line up the mower exactly where it needs to be.
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The mower hangs from implement mounting bolts with the tapered shoulder. It appears that the washers in the picture have been "formed" by use.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
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That was evidently a problem area as you see quite a few that have been messed up one way or another. I didn't see a lot during their first 10 or 15 years so I guess it wasn't too bad.
The original slots have a counter sink and require a taper head bolt. I think most problems come from not using the right type bolts and not keeping them TIGHT. Once they have been run loose, wear to the bracket and the bolt probably make it more difficult to keep them tight.
I am not sure that welding washers on, as in the picture of the yellow one, help much. The flat washer keeps the bracket from unhooking from a loose bolt. But the bolt will loosen much easier and people probably will keep running until the loose bolt falls out. If you use a machine bolt, it will not hold as well against movement across the mounting pad. If you use a tapered head bolt, the washer will yield under pressure (as can be seen in the picture of the yellow mower) and it won't stay tight. Either way is an invitation to more problems.
Among the ones I have seen with a home-made fix, it seems that a lot have been fixed more than once. So the fixes don't have much of a track record either.
Extending the bracket as Bus Driver described would probably help, as long as the holes are all countersunk and used with tapered head bolts.
The original slots have a counter sink and require a taper head bolt. I think most problems come from not using the right type bolts and not keeping them TIGHT. Once they have been run loose, wear to the bracket and the bolt probably make it more difficult to keep them tight.
I am not sure that welding washers on, as in the picture of the yellow one, help much. The flat washer keeps the bracket from unhooking from a loose bolt. But the bolt will loosen much easier and people probably will keep running until the loose bolt falls out. If you use a machine bolt, it will not hold as well against movement across the mounting pad. If you use a tapered head bolt, the washer will yield under pressure (as can be seen in the picture of the yellow mower) and it won't stay tight. Either way is an invitation to more problems.
Among the ones I have seen with a home-made fix, it seems that a lot have been fixed more than once. So the fixes don't have much of a track record either.
Extending the bracket as Bus Driver described would probably help, as long as the holes are all countersunk and used with tapered head bolts.
- Bus Driver
- 10+ Years
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I do have a large countersink and have used it on items I made for the Cub. It works best on a full hole circle, so I drill the hole, countersink and then cut the slots. For my mower, which does have the wallowed-out countersink, my first plan is to rebuild the worn areas with the MIG welder and reshape them with a die grinder. Plan B might be to weld the slots closed, drill and countersink, then recut the slots. I envisioned a piloted countersink with extended pilot that could be used with a backup plate that has a 5/8" hole. The backup would be clamped to the part and the hole would guide the countersink while the countersink was used on the already-slotted part. I have never seen such a tool and it may not exist.
Having the bolt barely started and hanging the mower on that makes for easier work, but is bad for the threads in the tractor and the bolt. Most folks then just tighten with the full weight hanging on the bolt. I prefer to hang the mower, then relieve the weight while tightening the bolts. Better results and longer lasting threads.
Having the bolt barely started and hanging the mower on that makes for easier work, but is bad for the threads in the tractor and the bolt. Most folks then just tighten with the full weight hanging on the bolt. I prefer to hang the mower, then relieve the weight while tightening the bolts. Better results and longer lasting threads.
Luck favors those who are prepared
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