Electrolysis Tank Solution Changeout?

[Paul_NJ]

I know many of you use electrolysis tanks for rusty part cleanup. Do you ever find the need to change your solution? My 55 gal poly tank just doesn't have much activity anymore, despite cleaning the anodes ( 5 lengths of rebar) and the electrical connections. I'm using an old DC power supply, so I can put 24volts DC into the tank, and while it used to really cook, I can barely get any amp flow at all any more. My solution's been in the tank for several years, and likely has too much washing soda if anything, as I've tried to dose it up. I know if I stir the solution there's lots of iron laying down at the bottom. Hate to go through the effort of dumping it if I don't have to, but I've got a pile of parts to do, and it just isn't doing what it used to. Now that the tank's thawed out, I've got to get going. Anyone had experience like this?

Thanks

[Bigdog]

Paul - if your anodes are sitting in the pile of sediment in the bottom of the tank all the current flow is probably down there. If you can, try raising the anodes up so that they are out of the sediment. The real answer to you problem of course is to clean the sediment out of the bottom. If you install a large drain on the bottom of your tank you can stir the sediment up slightly and drain it out of the bottom without emptying the tank completely.

[Rudi]

Paul:

Been there done that That is why I built my tank the way I did with the bungs down and an ABS outlet setup complete with a ball valve. This way, I can clean out the gunk without losing the TSP or in your case the Washing Soda. You can continue to keep using the solution, and just add water as the level lessens. What is happening is the water in the solution is evaporating, but leaving the Washing Soda behind. Here is the link to Rudi's Electrolysis Tank, remember you need Power Point or the viewer to see the Presentation.

As BD said, you are experiencing current loss because the re-bar/anodes are setting in the gunk on the bottom and almost short ciruiting I guess. So you can do a couple of things.

1. Drain the tank, but keep the liquid solution if you can.. for reuse in the modified tank. Clean the crud out of the bottom, clean the anodes and set aside.

2. Did you cut off the bung end or leave it on the barrel? If so, then simply remove a bung, it has a coarse thread and will readily accept an ABS adapter and you can then plumb in the drain.

3. If you didn't leave the bung end on, then I would suggest acquiring another barrel, and cut out the bottom leaving the bungs on the top on the barrel, kinda like in the Power Point presentation.

This way, you can drain the tank of crud or buildup as needed without losing the whole solution.

Other thing in the meantime, is as BD suggested... lift the re-bar until they clear the crud and you should be in business.

[Paul_NJ]

Bigdog and Rudi

Thanks guys, I'll try all of your suggestions. I inherited several 55 gal poly drums, but unfortunately their tops were already cut off first, so the bungs are gone. I'll keep my eye out for a new one though. In the meantime I'll "bucket" the solution out of one barrel into another, and dump and flush the bottom few inches. Glad to hear it's not just me, and that there's an answer!

Thanks again.

Paul

[Don McCombs]

Paul,

You might try to set up a siphon with a garden hose and "vacuum" the sludge up from the bottom.

[Paul_NJ]

I wonder if there's some sort of a fitting I can buy that clamps on both sides of a drilled hole in the bottom, sort of like on a toilet tank. Rudi, I had read your "how-to", but didn't relate draining with loss of activity. Now I see the importance. I'm lucky if I can get 1 amp flowing, where I used to be able to achieve 8 or more. The hose siphon is a good idea, but perhaps this time it may not be a bad idea to do a good drain and hose flush. I think there's a dropped wrench still down in there I couldn't find with my "fishing magnet".

[Rudi]

I wonder if there's some sort of a fitting I can buy that clamps on both sides of a drilled hole in the bottom, sort of like on a toilet tank. Rudi, I had read your "how-to", but didn't relate draining with loss of activity. Now I see the importance. I'm lucky if I can get 1 amp flowing, where I used to be able to achieve 8 or more. The hose siphon is a good idea, but perhaps this time it may not be a bad idea to do a good drain and hose flush. I think there's a dropped wrench still down in there I couldn't find with my "fishing magnet".

Paul:

Actually there is... I have seen them available. They are just mating flanges.. one is male and one is female.. and you can drill through the bottom, put the flanges in and plumb. Or you can actually get one of those toilet bowl type flanges.. drill mounting holes, use bolts and silicone to seal around the bolts and the lip of the hole you drill, then continue to plumb. You will have to build some kind of support base though.

So if you have lots of these barrels without the tops, you still can install a drain.

I shall look around and see what there is..

[Rudi]

Paul:

You can also go this route. 1-1/2" ABS is what I used, so you should be able to build it this way.


1-1/2Hxmip Male Adapter - Threaded

Drill Hole in bottom of tank to just accept (even thread into the bottom) the male adapter from the top side.

Then thread on the female adapter. Just before you tighten it up, seal it with pipe dope.. not glue.


1-1/2 Hxfpt Fem Adapter - Threaded

Then use a 45 degree Street Elbow -- keep the angle low so you do not plug up the line.. and it will also give you a "grade" to work with...


1-1/2 inch 45Deg Street Ell

Use 1-1/2" ABS pipe between the 45 degree street ell and the ball valve.. and again at the outlet side of the ball valve so you can point and shoot sort of to drain where you want.

Ball valves are pretty common, and the plastic ones are anywhere from $1.50 to $3.75 or so up here.. for an 1-1/2" model



Does this help??

[Jerry M]

Go to your local marine supply and buy what is called a thru-haul fitting. You can get them made of brass or nylon/plastic. The plastic ones are quite cheap and they come in a variety of sizes to suit your needs. Gaskets included. Much cheaper than buying new tanks.

Jerry

[Paul_NJ]

Thanks Rudi, you've give me lot's of good ideas. One question r/e ABS or PVC pipe fittings. My tank is in an unheated garage, so it freezes solid in winter. The thick walled polyethylene tank hasn't had any problem with that, but I'm wondering about the pipe. What has been your experience in the winter?

[Jerry M]

Sorry, that was thru-hull fitting. also, on the inside of your tank, it will be much more flush so as to get out more of the crud.

Jerry

[Rudi]

Jerry:

If this is what you are meaning, and if there is a marine supply house nearby, then it would be rather useful... and easy...


Forespar 250 Series Thru Hull 1-1/2" Thread

Only thing is, at Code: 7031 Price:$22.95, it is a tad bit more expensive than ABS which all told for the project would cost less than $10.00.

[Jerry M]

Yes Rudi, that is exactly what I meant. Although that one is belveled where it meets the inside of the tank. You can get them flat on that side for a better seal.

Jerry

[bob in CT]

A few ideas:

If you have a wet vac you should be able to suck the gunk off the bottom.
Put the nozzle in to the bottom and turn it on. You can let it settle out and pour the electrolyte back in.

You could use a paint filter when pouring back in.

I have thought about a small pump at the bottom with a sand filter like for a swimming pool or aquarium to help keep thing clean, but I have not stumbled upon any cheap hardware yet. A 5 gallon bucket would be good for the sand filter. Some sort of simple bulkhead fitting on the bottom as a drain and the bucket handle would be handy to suspend it about the tank and let the filtered electrolyte drip back in.

[Jerry M]

rudi, just found one for $12.00 on the net. 1/2" dia..

Jerry