Cooking Instructions

[Harold R]

I was wondering if anyone has a good temperature to bring the front pulley up to so the installation will be easier. My last two, I boiled in water for about 30 minutes........not sure what temp that actually made the pulley, but I'm leary of damaging the front seal. I use 1/2 all thread with a couple of washers and a nut to run the pulley on. I seem to get half way and it cools.........then becomes a slug fest. LOL

[Jason (IL)]

I just use a little torch with MAP gas. I heat it for prolly 5 min with it started on the shaft and slowly tighten. I have had no problems that way. A little heat does make a big difference though.

Hope this helps.

Jason

[Jim Becker]

Take a look at this chart.
http://www.metrogasket.com/o-rings/mate ... _guide.htm
The seal is probably made of Nitrile, which is generally listed for a service temperature up to 250 degrees. A brief exposure somewhat above probably won't hurt it. If it isn't Nitrile, all the other resonable possibilities have higher service temperatures. So 250F should be safe in any case.

Sticking it in an oven set for 250 will get it hotter than boiling it in water. Given that it will start cooling as soon as you take it out, and that there is some margin for brief heat exposure above the service temperature, you should have plenty of leeway for any amount the oven control may be out of cabibration.

[Harold R]

Alright. So based on the chart, the pulley could make contact with the seal @ 250. For the time it takes from the oven to the end of the shaft and set up the all thread gizmo, I feel that about 300 degrees would be safe. I'm going to wait until the wife goes to town so I can use the kitchen thermometer.

[Charles (49) Mo]

When you get it on -- QUENCH it with water to limit the time with hot material.

[KETCHAM]

Let her watch ya bake something.I'm sure you watch her!!! Kevin

[Gary Dotson]

As soon as it makes contact with the crankshaft, it will cool drastically. That's long before making contact with the seal. With that in mind, 350 should be plenty safe.

[Harold R]

As soon as it makes contact with the crankshaft, it will cool drastically. That's long before making contact with the seal. With that in mind, 350 should be plenty safe.

Yes, I think it would have been safe at 350. I heated the pulley until it showed 300 degrees. I managed to get it on about 1/3rd of the way before I could no longer move it with the all thread, washer and nut set-up. From there I had to heat with a propane torch, and drive it the rest if the way with a BFH and a wooden block. I just doesn't seem like it would be good for the crankshaft and associated bearings pounding on it like that. Anyhow.....it's on there.

[Mike in Louisiana]

Harrold,

Next time go to wall-mart get some dry ice and put it around the crank while the pulley is in the oven.

Mike

[Russ Leggitt]

Harold,

You mention, "1/2" all-thread and big washers". I use a piece of channel
iron about 2" wide that is long enough to go across the face of the pulley.
I can't visualize exactly how you are attaching the washers b ut they may
be binding some on the all-thread. I have had no problems putting the
pulley back on with this method.

[Gary Dotson]

I agree, Harold, I would feel very uncomfortable pounding on a Cub crankshaft very hard. The crankshaft isn't that beefy and the thrust bearing is pretty small. Years ago, it was the accepted practice, on car & truck engines to drive them on, but it is very much shunned now days. There are very good installers available now days, many auto parts stores will rent them to you very reasonably.

[Harold R]

I was thinking about how to press that thing on without having to take it to the machine shop, (block and all). Should be able to make something, but not sure where you can grab on the motor without running the risk of cracking something.

I can't visualize exactly how you are attaching the washers b ut they may
be binding some on the all-thread. I have had no problems putting the
pulley back on with this method

I haven't been able to find a washer large enough to fit the front face of the pulley, yet small enough to catch a 1/2 nut in the center, so I used a series of 4 washers, each larger than the other. Perhaps some angle or channel will work better. Also, I didn't mic it, but I bet some of the crankshaft ends get flaired from pulley removal.

[randy48cub]

I would use any piece of steel at least 1/4 thick, preferrably 5/16 or thicker, big enough to catch the pulley and drill a 1/2 " hole in the center.
The thicker it is the less chance of it catching on the allthread.
Bake the pulley in motor oil to 250 degrees. The oil will help lubricate it as it goes on.
I am leery of getting it hotter than 250. My opinion.