Farmall Garden Implements

[Jim Becker]

People talk about values of tractors and implements in this forum. Dan has given you some good advice. Coming to a Cubfest and seeing some complete implements installed on tractors can help a lot too. Off the tractor, they tend to just look like a pile of scrap iron.

First off, you need to keep in mind that setting a value for an implement is a little like setting one for a used car. A used car can run from 10s of thousands of dollars down to "please haul this away." Cub implement values will depend on condition, how many pieces are missing, location and even the time of the year. I'll take a shot at a few values and let others jump in with their thoughts. Sometimes guys find imlpements for much less than these prices, but they just got lucky and I am not trying to quote those prices.

Cub-193 (one-way) moldboard plow. $150-$200 Bottom shouldn't be worn too badly and the depth control lever needs to be with it. Per another recent thread, you can get close to $100 into a replacement share, so be mindful. If a plow and the depth control lever get separated from each other and are sold individually at an auction, the lever will bring more than the plow.

Disk harrow. There are several models, may be a single mounted or tandem pull behind. $150-$400. Watch for any disk blades that are broken or loose on the shaft.

Cub-144 cultivator. $250-$400. You will probably need to go towards the high end to find one with the front universal mounting frames. These can vary a lot depending on how they are equiped. It may have spring trips, friction trips, spring teeth etc. Local soil and weed conditions helped determine what was sold in your area originally. If it has all the goodies and a pair of disk hillers, it may go well over $400.

You will need a rear rockshaft for the plow and cultivator. With luck, one might be included with an implement. I think from one of your earlier posts, you already have that anyway.

A peg tooth or spring tooth harrow would be a good garden implement. You may be able to find an old pull behind one locally. Once you find one, they can often by bought for not much more than scrap prices.

If you want to do some light grading work, one of the snow plow blades works great mounted under the tractor. There were 3 major versions of the blade. The later ones are preferable. They tend to run in the $250-$400 range. If you run across one that has gotten separated from the front mounting parts, it should go well under $250.

Maybe you will get really lucky and find someone nearby that has several implements you are looking for. Those can turn into a real deal, especially if you take everything they have. (Good move anyway, because you need to take everything they have to make sure you don't miss pieces of the implement you actually want.)

I am near Dallas, which isn't exactly in your area but not that far away either. I could fix you up with some of what you are looking for, but I would have to dig it out to see exactly what I have and what shape it is in. If you ever get over this way and just want to see what some of it looks like, we can do that too.

[Jim Becker]

I uncovered most of the serial numbers on the cub and its a T series casting date and the serial number on the steering control is listed as a 1950,s cub, but the engine places it at a 1951, but the T solves the mystery as to the age, I hope. It was sold as a 1952, but he was wrong. No matter it runs great. I will be checking all of the fluid levels and grease to make sure it is protected. I would like to know about the 2 openings or slots, one at each end on the rear axle housing, currently they had some type of rag stuffed in to the slot, I guess to stop the oil or grease from leaking out. Is there suppose to be some type of rubber plug or etc.

The stamped in engine number is not the same as the tractor serial number stamped into the ID plate. The engine number was often considerable higher than the other. The number in the ID plate is the one to go by when looking up the year in a serial number table.

The axle shafts coming out of the differential each have an oil seal in the differential/transmission housing. They each have another seal in the final drive housing. Thus the middle section of each shaft has a "dry" section between the 2 seals that includes the area where the brake drum is mounted. if one of the seals begins to leak, oil will get into the "dry" area of the housings. There are weep holes in the housings that allow any of this leaked oil to run on out of the housing and drip on the wheel, the ground or the barn floor. I think the rags you are describing were either stuffed into the weep holes or the slots provided for the brake rods to enter the housing. Less work than replacing he seals, but only a short term fix.

[jimrazorback]

Thanks Jim----The oil is not leaking too bad or any at all. Will see when I check the fluid levels tomorrow and refill them if low, than if it is major, I will spot it. I need to replace a couple of seals anyway, no big thing. Need to warm up a bit, my shop is not completed yet, sheds are very cold----I got the serial number and year of the cub worked out. The serial number on the plate was a simple plate fixed onto the steering gear. It did not have any thing but the serial number and 1800, which I found out is the idle rpm. I was pluzzed because of no manfacture data on the plate, just a simple plate. I was told that a lot of cubs have that plate also----Jim

[Donny M]

One reason the seals leak is an over full condition usually caused by water in both the final and tranny. Flushing and replacing the fluids at the proper level may help.

[Jim Becker]

The serial number and rpm were the only things stamped into the plate. Everything else was painted on (probably silk screened). The silk screened part has worn off leaving only the stamped part. If we were at all clever, we would make up some silk screens to restore old plates.

The transmission/differential is pretty bad about gathering water. Before topping it off, I would at least crack the drain plug enough to see what comes out. (It's a pipe plug but can be done if careful.) If what comes out is water or a grayish white crud, you might as well drain the rest out.

[jimrazorback]

The 1950 farmall cub is just a farmall cub--no specific model number or like that. The guy I bought it from listed it as a international, but I know it came later on in production. What I find is McCormick Farmall Cub for these models.----I am learning---Thanks---Jim

[brian kov]

a lot of times when some one is cleaning the area around the tag it gets the black paint worn off . i was preppin for paint and rubbed mine off a bit with enamel reducer by acciden t.

[drspiff]

The serial number on the plate was a simple plate fixed onto the steering gear. It did not have any thing but the serial number and 1800, which I found out is the idle rpm.

Howdy! Welcome as everybody and their brother has said. I just wanted to mention that 1800 is not the idle RPM. That is the max idle speed. The serial plate would have looked like this when the tractor was new:


This is the plate for my '51 and yours would have looked just like this but having a different serial number. Notice the max idle speed is 1800 RPM. My understanding is that the Cub should idle, no load, at about 450 RPM. But we need one of the Cub Gurus explain what a max idle speed is. The notion of my Cub idling at 1800 RPM is scary.

Rick (does it go to 11?) Dulas

[phantom]

hey jim, that max idle speed is as fast as the engine is supposed to spin with no load on it....never faster. if the governor is set up right you can run it wide open if you like.

don't be in a hurry to get impliments. it's too wet to plow right now anyway. in your want to buy ad i saw you are looking for garden impliments, not farming. you will find out that the full size 'farm' tools are just right for your garden no matter big or small.

i didn't see where anyone else warned you so i will. you are gonna have so much fun with your cub that you will pretty soon get another one just so you don't have to change impliments. one for each tractor.

oh, almost forgot, when you do the fluids thing, for the amount it takes to change them, rather than top them off go ahead and drain them out. catch each by itself so you can look them over and look for gear chips or metal shavings that could warn you of trouble on the way.

above all else have fun and play safe.

[jimrazorback]

I appreciate the welcomes and help that you guys provide and everyone is honed in on the same thing---Farmall Cubs. I have stayed up late every night since I bought the farmall. Its the one I posted next to my name. A 1950 Farmall touch control hydraulic,s / belly mower. I know Iam going to have fun, Iam fully retired--live in the country close to three lakes and live on top of a small mountain with 5 acres mostly grass. The cub will be just right to get in and out around the trees. I intend to extend my garden as soon as I finish my shop this coming week, than I will start to work on the cub and check it out first before I use it. The land is some sand stone rocks, sand, clay and a lot of leaves and pine straw that I cut up and leave as mulch. Iam reading every post and looking at photos and I have a list of things I want. When time comes I intend to do business with cub members or people they refer me to. Most all of you guys are on the same page when it comes to prices of implements, all about the same quoting prices, but the outsiders are robbers. Guys give me all of the advice you want, I will read and learn. In 2-3 days I now understand how to spell Farmall Cub and working on spelling implements. I may later on get in feet first after I get this one cub fixed up and ready to use, it will be a nice decent working cub, but look pretty good at the same time. It seems to me that Farmalls are better than riding mowers, I can do a lot of things with a cub, but not a riding mower.---Rudi,s photos and manuals is helping me find out critical things I need to know about maintaining the cub. Do these cubs have a model number or series number based on year of production or is it just a McCormick Farmall Cub. I have been assured the disc and implements being shown can be worked with a 10 hp cub, and most all cubs are 10 hp.------Thanks Guys----Jim