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Torque Tube Repair

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Bill E Bob
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Torque Tube Repair

Postby Bill E Bob » Sat Nov 17, 2007 9:23 am

No, it's not cracked, but a first for me! The clutch pedal stop has been
broken off. Been thinkin' about drilling and tapping for 5/8ths bolt to
use as a stop. Torque tube is orig to tractor and would like to keep
it as its casting date is within Demo range. Any other ideas for a
reasonably clean repair.

Bill

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Postby KETCHAM » Sat Nov 17, 2007 9:28 am

Super glue!!!HaHA!!!Now this should be intersting on replies on how to fix.Seeing how it was cast,I'm not sure.Kevin
47 CUB[Krusty] 49 CUB[Ollie] 50 H-- PLOWS DISCS MOWERS AND lots more stuff!!Life is to short -Have fun now cause ya ain't gonna be here long!!!!

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Postby George Willer » Sat Nov 17, 2007 9:35 am

I never heard of one breaking off. I wonder if it was done deliberately? Someone may have done it for a clutch adjustment. Here's how someone adjusted the pedal travel on Barney. I hope Bill Scaggs doesn't mind me showing it.

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Bill E Bob
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Postby Bill E Bob » Sun Nov 18, 2007 5:33 am

George,
I think you've hit it!! On closer inspection, the boss does look like it
was cut off :shock: Do you think my stop bolt idea will fly? Plan on
grinding the boss flat, drilling and tapping for 5/8" bolt. Won't look
pretty, but it might keep the TB out of the pressure plate arms :shock:

Bill

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Postby Rick Prentice » Sun Nov 18, 2007 7:45 am

Bill, I just so happen to have a scrap torque tube. I could cut off the stop on mine, close as possible, and you could drill it from the end and then drill and tap your torque tube and bolt this one on. Better yet, I have some counter sunk drills for allenhead cap screws. I'll dig up a bolt and drill/counter the cutoff cast with a bolt(maybe 5/16 or 3/8 ). Then all you have to do is drill and tap your T-tube.

You'll be back to the store for more supplies :shock: , but at least you can try out your new tap-wrench :D :D

Rick

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Postby Bill E Bob » Sun Nov 18, 2007 10:32 am

Sounds like a plan. A neat fix that (if I don't screw it up) won't
readily show :D Oklahoma's a great place to live, and I'd help
you move. If you are this handy long distance, imagine what I
could accomplish with you down here :lol: Or I could consider
Ohio, since the Sooners are bust again for this year :evil:

Thanks Large

Bill

PS Postal service is gonna' love us :shock:

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Postby BigBill » Sun Nov 18, 2007 11:02 am

You could drill and counterbore it for a allen head cap screw and bevel around the outside seam were it joins together and weld it up using castiron rod. Then weld up the cap screw too so the bolt isn't seem at all then file it all smooth and prime and paint it up so it looks orginal. Maybe a little bondo or redlead maybe needed too but it can still look orginal untouched when its all done. The castiron rod i use will weld steel to castiron.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

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Postby Redman » Sun Nov 18, 2007 12:30 pm

:?: :?:
Last edited by Redman on Mon Jun 14, 2010 7:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby drspiff » Sun Nov 18, 2007 12:37 pm

BigBill wrote:You could drill and counterbore it for a allen head cap screw and bevel around the outside seam were it joins together and weld it up using castiron rod. Then weld up the cap screw too so the bolt isn't seem at all then file it all smooth and prime and paint it up so it looks orginal. Maybe a little bondo or redlead maybe needed too but it can still look orginal untouched when its all done. The castiron rod i use will weld steel to castiron.


If welding cast iron is a little scary, cover the capscrew with some epoxy putty. Smuudge it into the cavity and smooth it down with a finger dipped in alcohol. If you are really creative, you can replicate the casting marks in the epoxy.

Rick (epoxy, an essential ingredient) Dulas

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Postby Jim Becker » Sun Nov 18, 2007 1:26 pm

I'd consider using a steel sleeve and attaching it as discussed rather than trying to cut/drill etc. a piece of cast iron. The steel piece can be easily ground and bondoed to a shape that approximates the original nub.

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Postby grumpy » Sun Nov 18, 2007 1:50 pm

Jim Becker wrote:I'd consider using a steel sleeve and attaching it as discussed rather than trying to cut/drill etc. a piece of cast iron. The steel piece can be easily ground and bondoed to a shape that approximates the original nub.


I agree 150% with Jims suggestion. :wink: Grump
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Postby Hengy » Sun Nov 18, 2007 2:51 pm

OK... Maybe I am missing something...

I had heard that torque tubes are the parts that everyone has leftover when they part out cubs because no one wants one. Wouldn't it be more adventageous to just find someone who is somewhat local who has an extra one sitting around and go that route? It can be a pain in the butt to change it, but it would be as good as new when you were done. Plus you could do some of those "might as well" things while you were in there...

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Postby Super A » Sun Nov 18, 2007 4:47 pm

WisconsinCubMan wrote:OK... Maybe I am missing something...

IIt can be a pain in the butt to change it,
Mike in La Crosse, WI


You just answered your own question! :wink:

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Postby Barnyard » Sun Nov 18, 2007 7:35 pm

WisconsinCubMan wrote:...Wouldn't it be more adventageous to just find someone who is somewhat local who has an extra one sitting around and go that route?

Mike, Bill wants to keep it as original as possible because the casting numbers put in Demo range.
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Postby Rick Prentice » Sun Nov 18, 2007 7:42 pm

I'd consider using a steel sleeve and attaching it as discussed rather than trying to cut/drill etc. a piece of cast iron.
I guess I must be missing something. I'm not sure why you'd want to try and duplicate the casting with a piece of steel when you could have the real thing with the original shape.

Rick


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