Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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by Barnyard » Thu Nov 08, 2007 1:13 pm
Jim Reid wrote:Rock can you buy the epoxy local or do you have to order from manufacture. Jim.
I went to their website and it appears you have to buy directly from them. It sounds like good stuff.
I did take note of the precautions listed for the two components that need to be mixed.
"A" Component: Warning! ...In case of ingestion, do not induce vomiting.
"B" Component: ...In case of ingestion, induce vomiting.
You're in trouble if you injest it after mixing.
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by RockClimb » Thu Nov 08, 2007 1:52 pm
Jim Reid wrote:Rock can you buy the epoxy local or do you have to order from manufacture. Jim.
Jim, I don't think they have any retail stores, but you can order it from their website. The last time I checked they had over 375 different types of epoxy, for almost any application you can think of.
The person I spoke with about this originally also said that the Army Corp. of Engineers ordered this stuff to repair impellers in their submersible pumps and that another customer used it to put parts back on his drag race car.  The parts usually would not stay on the drag car long because they did not have time to sand blast the parts. But all they were usually interested in was keeping the part in place for a few seconds for the next race.
This stuff does get hot as it starts to harden and the thicker you apply it the hotter it gets. Something else to keep in mind, don't do like I did and leave this stuff in a warm area.  It was about 90 degrees in my shop when I mixed it and it hardened MUCH faster. I went to put the last scoop in and it went "THUNK" as the top layer had already hardened. It was however, very easy to grind down with a dremel tool.... just dusty.
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by RockClimb » Thu Nov 08, 2007 2:00 pm
Barnyard wrote:"A" Component: Warning! ...In case of ingestion, do not induce vomiting.
"B" Component: ...In case of ingestion, induce vomiting.
You're in trouble if you injest it after mixing.
Well, I think if you are in the habit of injesting mixed epoxy, you are in trouble long before you mix it.
But yeah, this stuff should be handled with extreme caution.
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by Jim Reid » Thu Nov 08, 2007 3:05 pm
Comedian Jeff Foxworthy said that on a tube of prepartion H was the warning DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY so i guess you have to post warning for the risk takers.
Jim
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by geibes » Thu Nov 08, 2007 3:27 pm
How is this stuff different that JB Weld?
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by RockClimb » Thu Nov 08, 2007 4:36 pm
geibes wrote:How is this stuff different that JB Weld?
The differences that I saw, it is a little harder than JB Weld. It is also much less expensive by volume than JB Weld. The drawback is the smallest unit they sell it in is 2.2 pounds. It is also much stronger than JB Weld.
JB Weld
Properties (psi)
Tensile Strength: 3960
Adhesion: 1800
Flex Strength: 7320
Tensile Lap Shear: 1040
Shrinkage: 0.0%
Resistant to: 500° F
#652
Compressive Strength: 17,200 psi
Flexural Strength: 13,500 psi
Shear Strength (tensile: steel to steel): 2,400 psi
Heat resistance up to 400 degrees F
No shrinkage
What I was never able to find out about JB Weld, is it rated for underwater use (Like JB Stick)? I have used it on items that were later submerged and it worked, but I wanted something that was rated for that use. If it had been a small crack I would have most likely used JB Weld.
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by RockClimb » Sun Oct 26, 2008 8:37 pm
Jim Reid wrote:Rock can you buy the epoxy local or do you have to order from manufacture. Jim.
Somehow I missed this question. I ordered it from the manufacture. I do not know of any stores that carry it, but there may be some out there. Edit, well I didn't miss it after all.... I am just getting a bit blind. Rock
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by 2cubs2cases » Mon Oct 27, 2008 7:37 am
Here is the information for PC7. Epoxy #652 is a lot stronger than either JB Weld or PC7. Impressive stuff.
PC-7 UNIT SIZES UPC NUMBER 2 OZ 027776 1/2 LB 087770 1 LB 167779 4 LB 647776 8 LB 128770 90 LB 909072 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES COLOR (component A) LIGHT GRAY COLOR (component B) BLACK COLOR (mixed) DARK GRAY WORK TIME (70°F) 60 MINUTES TACK FREE CURE TIME 160 MINUTES CURE FOR SERVICE 24 HOURS MAXIMUM CURE 7 DAY GARDNERS IMPACT RESISTANCE 160 in./lb ELONGATION 2% CONDUCTION (electric) NON CONDUCTIVE THERMAL SHOCK EXCELLENT TOXICITY NON TOXIC ONCE CURED HEAT RANGE -20 to 200°F TEST METHODS TENSILE SHEAR STRENGTH ASTM D 1002 2150 PSI COMPRESSIVE YIELD ASTM D 695 4245 PSI FLEXURAL STRENGTH ASTM C 580 2920 PSI WATER ABORPTION ASTM C 413 0.44% WEIGHT(specific gravity) ASTM D 792 1.16g/cm³ .671oz/in³ HARDNESS SHORED ASTM D 2240 76 (1wk) HEAT DEFLECTION ASTM D 648 120°F
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by Jerry M » Mon Oct 27, 2008 9:23 am
No doubt it worked very well. Great fix. However, I have foe years had extremely good luck fixing leaks with a product called " Marine Tex" and it can be bought at ace hardware stores as well as most marine supply stores. I've gone so far as to repairing cracked water jackets on engine blocks, radiators, and even a gas tank while the gas was pooring out of it. Very good stuff, give it a try also.
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