witch carb is better

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Don McCombs
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Postby Don McCombs » Thu Nov 01, 2007 11:35 am

I would be very careful with the CLR. The results may be the same as vinegar, if let soak too long. The following is straight from the product's web site. The highlighting is mine:

TIPS FOR USE:

Test a small area before applying to all surfaces.
Avoid prolonged contact with any surface; always rinse thoroughly with cold water after two minutes.
CLR is septic safe and contains no phosphates, bleach or ammonia.
CLR is non abrasive.
Always use CLR in a well-ventilated area.
Always stand on a non-slip surface while cleaning.
Wear household rubber gloves when using CLR.
Do not use CLR on wood, clothing, wallpaper, carpeting, marble, terrazzo, natural stone, colored grout, painted or metallic glazed surfaces, plastic laminates, Formica or aluminum.
CLR is corrosive if left on too long.
Never reuse bottle.
Never mix with other household cleaners or bleach.
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Rick Prentice
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Postby Rick Prentice » Thu Nov 01, 2007 1:33 pm

An Update on Mike's carb. This morning I zipped up to the Post Office to retrieve the package sent from TM. I went home, opened the box, and proceeded to completely rework the carb, top to bottom. The jig straightened the warped top half nicely. I also placed a new screen in the fuel inlet that was missing :shock: , then removed all the old oxidation inside the bowl with the dremel tool and wire wheel. Blew everything out and layed it on a clean rag(not in that order). Next, the top flange was also warped slightly, so that was straightened, then both 1/4-20 holes were stripped out, no signs of any threads, so a couple heli-coils and 2 new studs/lock washers/ and nuts, and that was back to original. Blew everything out, then installed the new idle tube, installed the small fiber gaskets under the discharge nozzle and the needle valve cage after I gave them the "George Willer Hoochy Coochy Silicone Sealer Treatment" :D :D that was learned at Bigdog's Cubtug this year. Installed the new float and set the adjustment at 1-13/32 with 3/16 of travel. Buttoned everything up and installed the carb on Nickles, my 55, and mowed grass for 1/2 hour. Removed the carb, drained all the gas, and shipped it back to Mike this afternoon.

Have fun Mike, hopefully you'll have it by tomorrow or Saturday.I don't think I'd give that guy anymore of your business :D :D, plus I'd try to get back most of the kit he didn't use.

Rick

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Postby George Willer » Fri Nov 02, 2007 8:37 am

Rick(billyandmillie) wrote: installed the small fiber gaskets under the discharge nozzle and the needle valve cage after I gave them the "George Willer Hoochy Coochy Silicone Sealer Treatment" :D :D that was learned at Bigdog's Cubtug this year.
Rick


Rick asked me to 'splain it... The fibre washers are very hard and won't really seal well against a surface that's less than perfect so they're to blame for a lot of dripping carburetors. Often the drips are mistakenly blamed on the needle valve.

I use black Permatex but I suppose RTV silicone would do as well. I use a couple squares of cardboard like a cereal box. Put a small dab of the sealer on one and rub them together "hoochie coochie". Both pieces should have a thin film of sealer. Now lay a washer between them and do the hoochie again and it should have a very thin film of sealer with no extra to squeeze out and cause problems. I handle the coated washers with tweezers. :D This treatment cures a lot of dripping carburetors.
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KETCHAM
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Postby KETCHAM » Fri Nov 02, 2007 8:51 am

WOW!!!!!Kevin
47 CUB[Krusty] 49 CUB[Ollie] 50 H-- PLOWS DISCS MOWERS AND lots more stuff!!Life is to short -Have fun now cause ya ain't gonna be here long!!!!

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Postby Bob McCarty » Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:04 am

I can't wait to see Ketcham do the Hootchie Kootchie!! :D :D :D

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Postby Donny M » Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:17 am

And all this time I thought the Hootchie Kootchie was a tent at the Fryeburgh Fair :wink: :lol: :lol:
8)

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Postby Redman » Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:26 am

:?: :?: :?:
Last edited by Redman on Mon Jun 14, 2010 7:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Don McCombs
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Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
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1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
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Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake

Postby Don McCombs » Fri Nov 02, 2007 1:41 pm

Rick,

Next carb you re-do, try one of your o-rings under the discharge nozzle. :D
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Rick Prentice
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Location: OH, Grand Rapids (historical town along the Maumee River)

Postby Rick Prentice » Fri Nov 02, 2007 7:07 pm

Don,
Next carb you re-do, try one of your o-rings under the discharge nozzle.
speaking of o-rings, did you find out anything about those special ones specifically for gas??

Rick

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Don McCombs
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Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
1951 Farmall Super C w/FH
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake

Postby Don McCombs » Fri Nov 02, 2007 7:52 pm

Rick, I sent you an email that may help.
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Postby kjoiner » Sat Nov 03, 2007 3:35 pm

Carl,

You are correct. The kit I got from Wenger's is a TISCO kit. I'll probably just eat the cost of it and order the correct kit from TM. I'm going to fabricate a straightening jig this week at work but I'll probably use some 1/4" aluminum plate I've got rather than steel.

Kyle

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George Willer
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Postby George Willer » Sat Nov 03, 2007 3:47 pm

kjoiner wrote:Carl,

You are correct. The kit I got from Wenger's is a TISCO kit. I'll probably just eat the cost of it and order the correct kit from TM. I'm going to fabricate a straightening jig this week at work but I'll probably use some 1/4" aluminum plate I've got rather than steel.

Kyle


The original was made with 1/2" steel. It was probably overkill but it should be rigid enough to remain true. There's one area where the carb puts up a LOT of resistance. The tough area is next to the inlet. I'd use something stiffer than 1/4" aluminum.
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Postby Rudi » Sat Nov 03, 2007 8:33 pm

And my re-worked copies of George's original jig are made from 3/16" steel. Aluminum is NOT the material of choice as it will deflect almost immediately. When desiring to true up a surface, the warped surface has to be softer -- more pliable than the straight surface to which the warped will be trued. Use steel.. new steel if you got it.. :!: You WILL be glad you did.

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