Farmall Cub

by **Donny M** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 8:59 pm

A word of caution on the new float. The last "new" float I had contact with had the hinge pivot too far rearward. I had to rework the pivot point so it was functional. Just something to check.

by **WKPoor** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 10:01 pm

Actually, based on some dyno testing a Briggs and Stratton 3hp carb is the best.

No longer true I believe. As of the Cub Tug this past summer. Rick (will I'm sure pipe in hear and set the record straight) but I think a Zenith now holds first and second place on the Dyno. My 47 being the 2nd place and Gary's LoBoy holds the 1st place.

by **Rick Prentice** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 11:22 pm

Ok WK

Here's the scoop. You are partially correct about the Zenith. Larry's 184's lead the pack as far as top dyno readings and have Zeniths, but Nik is referring to the test done on Gary's cub where he switched all 3 carbs, one after the other, and George Willer's 2 hp Briggs carb was 1st, the IH carb was 2nd, and the Zenith was last.

A word of caution on the new float. The last "new" float I had contact with had the hinge pivot too far rearward. I had to rework the pivot point so it was functional. Just something to check.

Thanks Donny. I'll check things out and let everyone know what I find.

Rick

by **'Country' Elliott** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 6:18 am

I replaced my IH original carburetor with a new Zenith (at that time, there were no TM replacment carbs available). I admit, the Zenith gets in the way of the oil dip stick, but you get used to workin' around that.

I CAN SAY that since DAY ONE my Zenith has operated flawlessly, and my Carol Elizabeth Cub never ideled as well as with the Zenith. :wink:

by **batty54** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 1:55 pm

O.K. fill me in on the briggs carbs. Are you talking about the old "B" type updraft 3 hp engine carbs. I have done a fair share of small engine work but never thought about this transplant. Do you rejet? and how much.

by **George Willer** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 2:18 pm

batty54 wrote:O.K. fill me in on the briggs carbs. Are you talking about the old "B" type updraft 3 hp engine carbs. I have done a fair share of small engine work but never thought about this transplant. Do you rejet? and how much.

I have no idea about the type except I thought this carb was from a 2 HP (it was mine) and is a float type updraft. Nothing about the carb has been changed internally except for the adapters to make it fit. It wasn't even opened up until recently.

Re-jetting carburetors doesn't really make sense unless the venturi is also altered to keep the mixture in the right 14:1 range. Such a change is really beyond what those of us who aren't engineers should attempt. B&S had a pretty good handle on carburetor design and IH and Zenith did too.

Field changes to jet size on IH carburetors have caused far more problems than they solved.

by **batty54** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 4:33 pm

Thanks George I will get out to the garage and try to dig one out. I'll grab a pic if I can and hopefully some numbers. I was collecting a bunch of these while gathering parts to restore my Fathers Planet Jr. it has the briggs BR6 engine on it.

by **batty54** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 4:41 pm

Quick thought on the vinegar treatment.

I had to rebuild a boat carb for a neighbor (who shall remain nameless Joe) It was so corroded by water being left in it. I disassembled it and dumped it into a container of "CLR" calcium lime rust remover. The thing came out like new even the passage ways were clean just a slight poking with a number drill or wire where needed.

by **WKPoor** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 5:44 pm

Rick, I didn't realize Larry's Cub did musical carbs also as did George's. I wonder how the B&S would do on higher revs? I guess more time and testing will reveal the magic formula for power.

by **kjoiner** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 5:47 pm

Hi,

I've got an IH carb that I'm rebuilding. I bought a carb kit from Wenger's and have couple of questions:

1. The kit comes with a needle and seat. The needle has a viton or some type of rubber tip where the original is all steel. The original needle seems to be in good shape. Am I asking for trouble by going with the new needle and seat?

2. The weep hole felt and retainer is staked in place. What's the preferred method for removing the 4 stakes that hold the retainer in place?

3. The kit comes with a new throttle shaft. It doesn't look like the original and based on previous experiences with automotive carbs, removing and replacing the throttle blade has always been a pain. I'm inclined to leave the original as is.

4. Are there any other tips? It looks like I'll make a straightening jig since the mine is warped. I would have done it earlier but I was afraid of cracking it.

Thanks,

Kyle

by **Rick Prentice** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 6:00 pm

WK,

I didn't realize Larry's Cub did musical carbs also as did George's. I wonder how the B&S would do on higher revs?

Larry has two 184's and they were within 2/10ths in hp. They both have Zenith's and No musical carbs were done with Larry's. Now Gary's cub is a different story. He switched all 3 carbs for the test. George's briggs carb was used on Gary's cub. Gary also has the high rev engine like you do. His will reach over 3000 no problem. The dyno tach only goes to 3000, so he stopped there.

Rick

by **WKPoor** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 7:14 pm

Rick, It will be interesting when you are able to test the high rev Cubs at there max to see if it makes any difference starting out at max high idle verses the reduced soft start.

by **splicer** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 9:06 pm

I agree with John and jnr127. The zenith was basically a plug-N-play to install, and I also had the issue with the dipstick clearance. I had no butterfly problem with the single gasket.......and it runs like a top.

by **Lurker Carl** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 9:21 pm

kjoiner wrote:Hi,

I've got an IH carb that I'm rebuilding. I bought a carb kit from Wenger's and have couple of questions:

1. The kit comes with a needle and seat. The needle has a viton or some type of rubber tip where the original is all steel. The original needle seems to be in good shape. Am I asking for trouble by going with the new needle and seat?

2. The weep hole felt and retainer is staked in place. What's the preferred method for removing the 4 stakes that hold the retainer in place?

3. The kit comes with a new throttle shaft. It doesn't look like the original and based on previous experiences with automotive carbs, removing and replacing the throttle blade has always been a pain. I'm inclined to leave the original as is.

4. Are there any other tips? It looks like I'll make a straightening jig since the mine is warped. I would have done it earlier but I was afraid of cracking it.

Thanks,

Kyle

Wenger's probably sold you the TISCO kit. It isn't a good fit for the IH carburetor. You are better off purchasing a carburetor kit from an IH dealer or TM (link on the home page) because it has all the parts for a complete overhaul.

by **Joe Malinowski** » Thu Nov 01, 2007 10:27 am

Yup my boat carb was full of water and sat. When Batty 54 soaked it in clr it came out like new all deposits and scale were gone

Farmall Cub

witch carb is better

Share On:

CLR

Who is online