need a final drive identification number

[Jim Becker]

The newer brakes were introduced during the 1953 model year. My assumption has been that any housing originally used for the toggle brakes could be substituted on any tractor that was so originally equipped. If this assumption is incorrect, it would be helpful to know.
Obviously the Lo-Boy housing is different and not interchangeable.

That is my understanding as well. It apears from the manuals that versions R1 through R4 all predated the change to the toggle brakes. R5 was used with all toggle brakes from '53 through the end of production.

Since we are on the topic, it is worth mentioning that Lo-Boy finals are not only different from the standard Cub, but they are also different from left to right. On the standard Cub, the housings are the same but both shafts are left or right.

[Buzzard Wing]

Got a couple of tips....

I found the last version of the parts manual to be invaluable... less than $30 (can even get it online from CaseIH). It's good for ANY Cub.

You should brace the front axle before pulling the final (do a search to see how).

Check ebay too.... I think I saw some the other day listed.

If you can get the correct side complete (shafts etc) it can be a lot easier. But if you get just the housing you will need a press to get the axle out.

Be prepared to replace all the seals and the brake bands.... Bearings and races as needed.

AND... put some Kroil/penetrating oil on the rear clevis for the brake NOW. For some reason that was the most difficult part to get off of my 71 Cub. Leave the stuff nearby and put it on every day or so. Also the bolts too.

[Don McCombs]

If you're not successful with our sponsors, there is a guy on eBay with the user name "123456780_90xlg". He has had some late model Cub parts on recently. You may want to contact him to see if he's got what you need. He's in NH.

[Bigdog]

Don't forget Mike Ireland - (CubitisNH) as a resource as well.

[boldpsi]

Gentlemen:

i learned from the previous owner that he had just re-done the brakes (recently) prior to selling it to me... but, they stick awfully bad, and after pushing the pedal down, i actually have to pull it back up with my toe! it actually is a feature sometimes, when i just want to hop off and do something and leave it in neutral - it stays right where it is even if it's a little slope-y.

BuzzardWing - thanks so much for the insights on the job... i definitely don't have the tools to do this work, let alone the stands, etc.

i guess the best thing to do would be to take up the offer they "boys" gave regarding Cubfest NE... first i'll have to find a truck & trucker & trailer, but i think i have a line on it. if i find i can manage it, i'll contact Cecil and let him know...
i'll keep y'all updated, and thanks again for helping me out!

Thanks!
dave

[Into Tractors]

i actually have to pull it back up with my toe

Dave, are the pedal return springs missing? All 3 of mine were missing, bought replacements from TM and now they work as they should.

[JimT]

If you are going to replace the final yourself you will want to read this post if you are not familiar with wedging the front axle.

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=18081

[Jim Becker]

i actually have to pull it back up with my toe

Dave, are the pedal return springs missing? All 3 of mine were missing, bought replacements from TM and now they work as they should.

If that isn't it, each pedal shaft probably needs some lubrication.

[Bob McCarty]

Dave, If you can't find a trailer to bring your whole Cub to Cecil's, you could pull the final off of the tractor and bring both of them in the truck/car. (I need to learn how to do this too.) Just a suggestion.

Bob

[boldpsi]

in the event that i can't get "trailered" , i'll try your suggestion, rjmac! thanks!

[Buzzard Wing]

I didn't mean to scare you... it really isn't all that bad. A bit time consuming. But like I said, something simple like that clevis pin can trip you up. Wedging the front is because it is mounted on a piviot, so the tractor can move up and down in the rear end. More of a problem if you have the whole hind end off the ground (very dangerous), but less of a problem with one wheel still on. I used some timbers from an old barn for the 50. http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/Bu ... 3Small.jpg

Also, whenever you start you may want to pull off the pans so it can drain. You don't want to lug it around with gear oil in it if you don't have to. No drain plug, so it can be messy. (I prefer to park the Cub on a piece of plywood and use carboard on top of that for messy stuff.)