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Sickle bar clogging

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kinelbor
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Sickle bar clogging

Postby kinelbor » Sat Sep 15, 2007 8:43 pm

What is the trick to making a sickle bar not clog up while cutting, tried mine out today and had a lot of trouble with it.
Nik - 1948 Farmall Cub

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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Sat Sep 15, 2007 8:56 pm

Nik - does it just clog on the end of the sickle or does it grab everywhere? Slowly run the sickle through a full revolution and observe where the tips of the sections stop at both ends of travel. The end of travel should stop with the tip of the sections centered under a guard. If it does not, the cut will be incomplete and the mower is what was referred to as "out of time". This is described in the operator's manual. If it is in time, the sickle is probably dull.
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Russ Leggitt
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mower

Postby Russ Leggitt » Sat Sep 15, 2007 9:08 pm

Nik,

1. Checkthat the knives are all tight and "sharp"

2. Check that all the guards are tight, and have sharp ledger plates

3. Check that the blade holddowns are adjusted properly [not too
loose or the blade will ride up away from the ledger plates]

4. Check to make sure that the knives stop their forward and rearward or
back and forth motion in the proper location. If not the bar will need to
to be adjusted in or out.

5. Check that the belt is at proper tension and not slipping when the
mower gets loaded.

6. Double check the "lead" on the outside end of the cutter bar. This is
adjusted by moving the drag link in or out.

7. In some types grasses that are very fine bladed I have found that it
helps to tilt the cutter bar up one notch from level.

Rudi has loaded the operators manual for the #22 on the manual server.

I just cut some very thick and tough hay in second gear and had no problem at all. Of course that was after going through all of the above checks and or adjustments. One word of advise, "tighten the drag link"
and tighten again just do not break the bolt. This I learned after breaking two pitman rods.

I am sure more experienced Cubbers will have additional advise.

What type and how thick is the vegetation you are cutting. Also, is there dead and undeteriorated material in the area you are cutting

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beaconlight
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Postby beaconlight » Sat Sep 15, 2007 9:59 pm

russ said it all. download the manual from rudis server. By sharp ledger plates he means square not rounded corners. I don't know how to word it for serated plates but you get the meaning.
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Postby evielboweviel » Sun Sep 16, 2007 5:22 am

always SHUT THE PTO OFF before getting off the tractor as that sickle will cut your fingers right off if you try to unclogg it will it is running!!!!!!!!!
Ron

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beaconlight
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Postby beaconlight » Sun Sep 16, 2007 5:41 am

Ouch I should have said that too. Sometimes you do things by habit and don't think to say them. PTO should be off no matter why you are getting off. It should come to a dead stop too or you could stop dead. Pun intended to make the point more completely.
Bill

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Dan England
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Postby Dan England » Sun Sep 16, 2007 7:55 am

If you accumulate quite a bit of plant matter in the clog try shifting to reverse and back up for a yard or so. Sometimes the friction of the bar against the ground will loosen and remove clogged material. And it lets you keep all of your fingers. Dan

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Postby Jim Becker » Sun Sep 16, 2007 10:36 am

beaconlight wrote:Ouch I should have said that too. Sometimes you do things by habit and don't think to say them.

Perfect point for adding a RTFM comment. The Owner's Manuals were provided to be read. Most of the basic warnings and operating instructions are covered in the IH manuals. They answer questions the amateur farmer won't think to ask.

I know that people seem insulted when you answer their questions by suggesting they read the manual, but they would be a lot safer and better off in other ways if they did exactly that. With most of the common Cub equipment manuals now on Rudi's server, there really is no excuse for anyone to not read the manual.

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kinelbor
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Postby kinelbor » Mon Sep 17, 2007 1:51 pm

Well I tried some of what I read here and on the flashchat. I went at it with a hammer and got the bar tighter. Now I only get a clog at the outer end. Its still a bit loose at that end so I think I am on the right track. Thanks for the info guys, and yes I do shut off the pto before getting off the tractor. I am very careful when I lift the bar too after reading everyone's advice, might not have thought about the bar falling before it was too late. Thanks guys.
Nik - 1948 Farmall Cub

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Postby Cecil » Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:31 pm

Sickle bar mowers are prone to clogging at the far end. That was why the special knife was designed. It is actually a knife and a half. But do your final adjustments first and let me know.

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KETCHAM
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Postby KETCHAM » Tue Sep 18, 2007 9:49 am

Sounds like your getting there!!!!!Getting ready to hook mine up at the new place.Got a lot going on though.Kevin
47 CUB[Krusty] 49 CUB[Ollie] 50 H-- PLOWS DISCS MOWERS AND lots more stuff!!Life is to short -Have fun now cause ya ain't gonna be here long!!!!

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Postby Cecil » Tue Sep 18, 2007 9:54 am

Kevin does the seat back on Samantha need replacing? I think it has a hole or a tear. It would give me something to get Pris for her new tractor. If so can you replace just the cushion or do you have to do the whole back?

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Into Tractors
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Postby Into Tractors » Tue Sep 18, 2007 10:08 am

Kevin does the seat back on Samantha need replacing?

What seat :?: Are you referring to the one that Kevin has listed on eBay currently :twisted: If so, then YES you'll need to replace the seat as it is missing :P

Sorry Cecil, couldn't resist.....Been having a bad couple of days, needed a little humor. :(
Mike Duncan

Cecil
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Postby Cecil » Tue Sep 18, 2007 7:29 pm

That's ok. I like humor.


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