Wiring head-scratcher ** Solved ***

[bob in CT]

Well the hood is off. Only took 3 days for that to happen

I flushed and cleaned the radiator with a cleaning solution and had some persistent dripping, but I think that was just water in the fins after I connected the hose to the drain plug and let water come out the top. I still wanted a good look. I like what I see because it is pretty much intact under the hood with all the original hoes and clamps so not much has been done other than plugs points and oil. Plus grease. LOTS of grease. Grease that has built up in great gobs and turned into the consistency of old window glazing compound that I am prying off with an assortment of screwdrivers and other scraping tools. I probably could fill a soup can with the stuff.

The real issue is the wiring which has be puzzled enough to get the wiring diagram, which I have just done and will head back to the operating room after this post for exploratory surgery.

The lights don't work. None of them. check the fuse, OK. Unplug the connectors, and we have voltage. So ALL the bulbs are bad? Strange, but could happen, but NO! The lamps work when connected directly to the battery. My guess now is there is a weak ground that gives a number to the voltmeter but not enough for the light to work. Strange.

This tractor ('74 flat-nose) has 2 wires to each light, a positive and a ground. I have continuity on the ground wire from the wire to the neg post on the battery.

I'll come back with an update later.

Bob

[Joe Malinowski]

I had a bad switch on my 67 at one point could be the problem, nothing is worse than chasing electrical problems.
Good Luck
Joe

[Rudi]

Bob:

Back to the basics first... Grounds, Grounds, Grounds

[bob in CT]

I checked the grounds. Got the headlights to work with direct-to-battery positive and the existing ground wire.

I pulled the fuse holder and wire-brushed the spade connectors and diassembled the wire terminals and cleaned them too.

Now homing in on bad connections on the switch. I cleaned the terminals with a wire brush and now I need to replace a couple of connectors on the harness. I'll have to buy some right angle terminals tomorrow to match the original as there is very little slack in the wires. Switch functions properly with ohm meter. Body of the ampmeter seems to be broken away from the bezel. hanging on by one point at the bottom. I need to check that out, a I may need to tack something which would require complete disassembly.

All normal stuff that is to be expected. After all, I bought this to tinker.

[Rudi]

Bob:

So then..

We is having fun right :?:

[bob in CT]

Hey, that's the point

when it bites back , I head for a different project and don't come back until I have a fresh outlook.

[Buzzard Wing]

The figured out the grounds by 74.... front lights are grounded at a dash bolt (pink wire I believe.)

Got a picture? How bad is the wiring?

I spent hours drawing out the wiring on Rufus before I took it apart. Then I got the manual.... (and a factory harness). The best schematics are in the Operators Manual. $13!

[rggiuliani]

I'm new to this forum so I don't know if you use this as stock in trade....

CopperShield. I use it whenever I am making bolted or battery connections for electrical wiring. It is copper in a liquid form that prevents coorsion and enhances the connection. Magic Goo. (my name for it) Buy it at trade stores for electrical supplies. 1 can lasts YEARS. put it on - bolt down the connection - wipe off the excess. Don't get it on your clothes.

[bob in CT]

Ron, that "david" Coppershield sounds pretty good . Does it work for spade connections too? I'll add it to my antique bottle of anti seize that I keep reviving with a little nip of alcohol every year.

BW, my camera batteries croaked last night so I'll post pics later. The harness is not bad looking and if I had a steam cleaner it would clean up pretty nice. I have a GSS Service manual and the original Operator's Manual (which I need to scan) and between the 2 i have a pretty good picture . I am just starting at one end and checking and cleaning the connections of each wire, so it is just a matter of time.

[bob in CT]

I have a few hood off pics and an update.



The wiring problem on the lights was traced to the three connectors on the switch. All three were making electrical contact so I would get a voltage reading at the lamp, but the contacts must have been too weak to transmit current. I cleaned the contacts on the switch and put new connectors on the wires. Strange to see that on three connections but if you work on stuff long enough you can expect to see anything.
I wish I had a steam cleaner. There is nothing better for cleaning this grime. I must have had an inch and a half of black "fluff" on the air cleaner housing.

All the fluids are changed, the cooling system has been cleaned and flushed and now the lights are working. The bearing spindles on the C3 took almost a tube of grease. Now I need to put on the blinders and button it up before the "while you are in there" whispers turns this into a full resto project whch I don't plan to do for at least another season.

Next investigation is why the main C-3 (new) drive belt is getting smoking hot. probably slipping as everything seems to be turning freely but I'll take all the belts off and check everything out.

Bob

[magnumpi]

Bob: Don't let that tractor tio over onto that Sunbeam !! Could be very problematic !! Craig

[bob in CT]

I'd say "never happen" but that would seal the fate of the Tiger!

[magnumpi]

In the Cub tradition, I could store it here until you have time to drive it again !! All I do is give, give and give some more. Craig

[48 BARNEY CUB]

LOOKS LIKE YOU GOT A GOOD START BET YOUR HAVEING FUN

48 BARNEY CUB

[rggiuliani]

I'm a purist when it comes to connectors. I NEVER crimp connectors and leave them.

Suggestion. Take some heat shrink tubing. Size does matter. Solder the connectors after crimping. Get rid of the plastic on the connector. Now slide the heat shrink..... (You DID put it on before the connector. I knew you would.) over the connector and you now have a connection that won't corode and cause issues. Heat shrink available at auto parts stores, Harbor Freight, or (my favorite) Outpost.com (Fry's Electronics on-line presence) They have mongo rolls of the stuff. Multiple sizes. I use it for many things including covering connectors on ropes for the boat.

The CopperShield works whenever you have a connection with an air gap. Slide connectors, battery post etc. Discovered this when they were building and repairing Nuc Power Plant I worked at.

Old Navy trick. I hated to work on gear that had bad connectors. That's why I went into Operations and let others fix what I broke in the commercial power world.