Operation of the Cub-22 mower

[Paul Glaeseman]

A couple questions on the operation of the Cub-22 mower. Despite
constant lubrication of the tube fittings, and the apparent free movement of the knife, the shaft tube is hot to the touch, behind the flywheel, after one hour of mowing. What might be causing this? What determines when the bushing in the shaft should be replaced? What's the best way to remove the old bushing? Is there any trick to installing the new bushing? I would greatly appreciate any help.

Paul Glaeseman

[Rudi]

Paul:

First, to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met

A couple questions on the operation of the Cub-22 mower. Despite
constant lubrication of the tube fittings, and the apparent free movement of the knife, the shaft tube is hot to the touch, behind the flywheel, after one hour of mowing. What might be causing this? What determines when the bushing in the shaft should be replaced? What's the best way to remove the old bushing? Is there any trick to installing the new bushing? I would greatly appreciate any help.

Paul Glaeseman

Whilst I cannot help with the questions as my experience with the 22 mower is still reasonably insufficient... there are many who can help. Howvever, the resources on the Manual Server at the links below may be of some help to you along with the expert guidance from my fellow board members.

Welcome and glad to have you aboard.. oh.. and anudder one from close to home.. Maine is getting to be popular Cub Country
The Welcome Wagon is a bit overwhelming, but it has been designed to actually be copied to a Word Processor such as Microsoft Word (which preserves the active links), and saved to your desktop for easy reference at a later date or when you have a bit more time to read all the information contained in the links below. Please do so, enjoy and I hope this will be a useful aid in learning more about your New Cub Tractor

Ok, so here is the spiel :

I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub. One of the other projects we have been working on and it will be a continuing effort is the How To Work on Your Cub - Maintenance Tips and Techniques. This the the place to go to get all the quick links to some very good articles written by many members of the forum on solving some of the problems we encounter as we repair, maintain and up-grade our Cubs. Keep looking for this to grow.


Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These pages are intended to complement our Official FarmallCub.com Website Sponsors:

JP Tractor Salvage
Ralph's Cubs
TM Tractor Parts
cubguy47

I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better if you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.

IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . While you are at it Original Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet is Ken's latest addition to the series. Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are three must have's in anyone's collection.

In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.

Oh, and while the program still lasts.. you might want to check the Announcement: Navistar Free Gas Cap Offer - On-Line Form thread at the top of the Cub Forum and send away for the new style safety cap before that program runs out as well.

I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, to the Cub Family

[Brandon Webb]

Mine get hot also, to warm to touch. I'm not sure if by greasing the fitting it gets all the way through the tube, I've mowed alot, and never hurt anything.

[KETCHAM]

Mine gets warm also.never gave it much thought though.Longest I've used mine was for 4 hours at one time[lot of tall grass].Kevin

[George Willer]

What determines when the bushing in the shaft should be replaced? What's the best way to remove the old bushing? Is there any trick to installing the new bushing? I would greatly appreciate any help.
Paul Glaeseman

Paul,

I can't answer directly so I'll just ask a general question someone else can answer. The bearing surface being poured babbit, is it poured in place or is it supplied as a separate part than can be inserted? I'm familiar with the technique of "smoking" the shaft and pouring the babbit directly into the housing, using the smoked shaft as part of the mold.

[Bus Driver]

Looking at the end of the flywheel shaft housing for one of my mowers, I see brass for the bushing. The parts catalog shows M 32 876 or 453 183 R1 for the bushings, depending on the date of manufacture of the mower. That implies replacement capability. I have never replaced one of those bushings. I have not seen one of those replacement bushings nor one that has been removed and cannot say what is the material of the bushing. They might require reaming by intentional design after installation or as a result of damage during installation. If your housing is really straight, keep it greased well and use it. Overlubing some things is bad, but the flywheel shaft housing is not one of them.