Assemble, then Prime and Paint??

[Bill E Bob]

Have heard much about bad (or lack of) grounding due to assy of painted
parts. I have a bare metal Cub in pieces waiting for assembly and was
wondering if I should assemble and then paint (assuring a good ground)
or paint and then assemble (removing paint as needed for grounding
purposes)? Would post assembly painting provide sufficient barrier to
the elements to avoid rust or is pre assembly painting best? I know,
really off-the-wall huh (I gotta' find something better to do
with my time)

Bill

[JimT]

When I tore mine down (completely) I primed and painted the parts before putting them back together. I did scrape paint on the items that would need to have a ground running through them. Some places were around the battery box mounting holes, the battery box grounding hole, the dash mounting holes, the holes in the dash for the light switch and ignition switch, generator mounting holes, etc. So far no electrical problems have developed and you can't tell by looking that any paint was scraped off.

JimT

[Matt Kirsch]

When the tractor was originally painted, it was done almost fully assembled. Pretty much everything was doused in red except for maybe the distributor cap, plug wires, steering wheel, rear rims, and tires.

As far as how assembled you want the tractor to be, that is up to you. There are many places that will be difficult to paint with the tractor assembled, so it may benefit you to paint those areas before assembly.

When I finally get to mine, it's going to be a hybrid paint job. Hood, and wheels will come off and get painted separately. Chassis will go up on jack stands to be painted as a standalone unit.

[Rick Prentice]

Hi Bill. Like Matt said, it was almost fully assembled. Here's a couple links showing the cub just before getting painted and coming back out: http://www.wisconsinhistory.org/whi/fullRecord.asp?id=24295&qstring=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ewisconsinhistory%2Eorg%2Fwhi%2Fresults%2Easp%3Fsearch%5Ftype%3Dbasic%26keyword1%3DFarmall%2BCub%26Submit%3DSearch

http://www.wisconsinhistory.org/whi/fullRecord.asp?id=24293&qstring=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ewisconsinhistory%2Eorg%2Fwhi%2Fresults%2Easp%3Fsearch%5Ftype%3Dbasic%26keyword1%3DFarmall%2BCub%26Submit%3DSearch

I plan to do one of my Cubs this way to see how it turns out. It sure would be faster, I think

Rick

[bob in CT]

I like the hybrid method, because you can do a really thorough job getting coverage on the small parts and crannies, but then end up with the completely painted look where all the bolt heads and washers are painted too.

After years of experience with the Prince of Darkness: Lucas Electric, I use really sharp serrated washers to bite in wherever I need a ground connection and check it with an ohm meter before I move on. I still can't figure out how a bad ground on the right front parking light can kill the dash lights.

[pete1941]

Great place for a Dremel Moto Tool, btw that reminds me to go pick one up. Pete

[CTdave]

I still can't figure out how a bad ground on the right front parking light can kill the dash lights.

So you came from the "learn it the hard way" school also I remember a GTO giving me the same problem

[Cecil]

I usually paint the parts that I will have a hard time reaching with the gun. Then I paint the whole tractor, less fenders, tool box, battery bos and hood, all at once. I use I/H spray 2150 and it covers with the spray on paint from my gun great. Can't tell the difference.

[artc]

as cecil said, everything thats hard to paint around gets done separately. then i sent my hood and fenders to the body shop for a squirt in the 'real' paint booth, just so i'd be happy with the results.

but i primed all the mating surfaces before assembly to keep any weeping rust from starting, taking care to scratch grounds under critical parts and be sure lock washers were biting in and new.

[Buzzard Wing]

I paint mine in pieces....

The key points are 1. don't paint ground/machined surfaces (starter hole, flat spot that generator mount goes etc) and...2 the generator and VR need a ground, so clean up one ear on the generator and bracket and the VR leg with a copper lead (for ground).

As mentioned earlier the ground for the battery is key, I used BigDogs method of a braided ground strap to a mounting bolt of the box.

I had no problem with a ground, except on the 71... battery box ground wasn't good. (dremel)

Also I recommend running a tap in every hole after you paint, helps with the grounds even if you don't paint in pieces.

[spiveyman]

I did about what artc did. my chassis had a little less attached to it than his, but we about had the same battle plan! And as far as grounds, I didnt leave spots bare or grind on them later. I havent had the least bit of trouble with bad grounds, so maybe I'm lucky? Maybe I will in the future? Everyone's advice is good, I guess just do what suits you.

[Cecil]

One thing I forgot to mention was I used never sieze on the bolts for the battery box and the ground. That seems to help keep them from corroding and causing them to loose ground. And ground seems to be very important.