1956 Farmall Cub Restoration Part 2...

[johnb175]

Well I do have a cub cadet 70. I didn't know you could mount stuff too it. Mine has just a 3 blade cast iron mower deck on it. Maybe that would be the way to go. Where would I find out about the implements for it. Also where would one buy them? Is it a you gotta find one kinda deal?

[Bigdog]

John - post your request for information on the cub cadet forum. Plows and harrows made by Brinly are quite common and I believe the sleeve hitch for cadets is fairly easy to locate as well.

[Rudi]

John:

That is pretty easy. I am not sure where you are, as you haven't filled in your profile yet..... but, Ralph's Cubs is a great place to start. Especially as the Cub Express usually can be procured for parts moving for members.

You can also find them on eBay. There was one on eBay last night acutally.

Here is a Brinly Disc Harrow for a Cub Cadet. Not sure which sleeve/hitch system it uses though..


This one was for a Fast Hitch Cub-L-38 Disc Harrow


So they are available and so are the ones for the regular cub as well. And they are very useful.

[johnb175]

I have a Woods 42 inch deck on my restoration (octagon shaped). The deck is pretty much shot. It's ben repaired many times and needs some attention. I have a friend that says he can cut the old plating off and get some new 3/16 sheet metal and fabricate a new top plate. He wants me to draw out the dimension and angles for the deck. Does anyone have a diagram of this? Mine is so bad off it's hard to get an accurate measurement. I figure we need a 4 foot by 4 foot piece of sheet metal to start with. A diagram with some measurements would be really helpful if anyone has that available. I think all I would need is either one front and side measurement or one measurement of the angled side. I hope that makes sense.

[pete1941]

Johnb, one of the easiest ways, and least expensive ways to BREAK-UP a garden, if you don't have super hard soil is to purchase the U-shaped tool bar that mounts under the front of the Cub. Then purchase two of the hiller disks. Set up the hiller disks turned the same way and start plowing. They act as a mini-turning plow. Forget tire tracks for following and just make your second pass close to the first track of the hiller. If you don't have a large garden this will work like a top and this is what I do with mine rather than hook up the large MF with point plow and harrows. I'm sure that on most of the associated web sites such as TM, Ralph's etc, you will find what you need. I have the equipment but haven't had a chance to post the pictures to Photo Host yet. Pete

[pete1941]

Johnb, as a followup to the previous post, the short toolbars that hook to the left and right angle toolbars will work with the hiller disks as well, if you have those or can find them. These ways take a little time, but who cares when operating the Cub is so much fun anyway. Wouldn't recommend it on an acre or more though!!! Also, it takes a minimum of time to set these up, probably 20 mins. max. Pete

[johnb175]

Ok I need to give this drawing to the fabrication guy soon. I tried to measure to the best of my ability and polished up on my math. Measuring diagnonally across the deck I got a consistent 48 inches. So I knew the two sides of the triangle were 24 each. I also knew since it was an octagon the inner angle was 45 degrees. Using the law of cosines (c2=a2 + b2 - 2ab (cosC) I calculated the outer side to be 18.36 or around 18 3/8. I hope I didn't goof somehwere. Do the measurements in my diagram below look right for a Woods 42C-4 deck? Can anyone check against their deck to make sure I have done this correctly. Thanks again everyone.

[George Willer]

double check... (Sin 22.5)x24x2=18.368805

[johnb175]

Sorry I've been away. Steadily working on the cub trying to get it done. I am now trying to disconnect the rockshaft from the hydaulic piston. I have got everything off and removed the nut. On the other side is a slot that almost makes me think it screws in. I have soaked it in Kroil and tapped on it but without knowing how it comes out I do not want to put excessive force. I have provided a picture of the bolt below. If anyone could enlighten me on how to get this out I would be greatly appreciated. Also, does anyone on the forum do hydraulic cylinder block rebuilds? Mine in leaking around the pistons so I assume the O-rings are bad. Again any help would be greatly appeciated.

[George Willer]

John,

I take it you dismantled the control linkage to get the nut off? What's left has nothing to hold it except a shoulder against the linkage side and rust. It should just push out toward the right side of the tractor. Use the screwdriver slot to un-stick it first.

BTW, the piston goes out the other end and the rod goes with it.

[johnb175]

yea I disconnected everything. I have soaked this thing in kroil for a week now and the stinkin thing will not come out. I tried turning on it with a large flat head screwdriver and tapping on the other end with no success. Here are some more pictures of what I am facing. I am taking all this apart to clean and paint. Phase 1 which was the rear of the tractor is almost complete.



Can anyone suggest any method to get this bolt out? Am I missing something here?

As an update I took a shot of the whole tractor in it's current phase under my garage. Boy what I wouldn't give for a nice shop to work in for this project but I guess we have to work with what we have.

[johnb175]

Can I perhaps use heat to free the bolt? Should I worry about damaging anything?

[Bigdog]

Have you tried sliding the side edge of a large flat blade screwdriver into the slot and using the extra leverage of the shaft length to turn it?

[trac48]

If It was me I would put a round wire brush on a drill and clean both sides of that bolt to remove all paint and rust from it,than use what ever
penetring oil you want for 1 hr at the time and let it soak for a day than if you use heat on the parts that are holding the bolt and hit with a hammer
on these heated parts to loosen the rust inside it should move; hopefully But that's just my opinion

[johnb175]

Well fellas after several months of inactivity today a friend of mine and I removed the head from the engine. The tractor has not been ran in six months since I started the disassembly for the cleaning and repainting phase. I was worried the head gasket was leaking since I was finiding water in my oil. Upon removal on cylinder #4 there was a small amount of water sitting on top along with a rusty valve. I'm assuming my theory was correct and the gasket was leaking. Anyway, I wanted to get the opinion of the board members of whether I should go ahead and change the rings. I noticed the top of the pistons had 030 stamped on them so apparently it's been rebuilt in the past. I looked on tmtactors and could only find 020 and 040 rings. Is there any reason for this? Any input as to what I should do would be greatly appreciated.