Gains power after 20-30min warm up.

[RickJH]

Let me introduce myself. My name is Rick, I'm 27 yrs old, from Whitmore lake, Michigan. I stumbled across this site looking for information on my fathers 1948 cub. After about a week of Reading and gathering info from the site i had to register. The 48 cub is champ starts up first crank and is mostly used to mow grass on my fathers property. However the past couple of years she has not run like she used to until she is warm, usually it takes 20-30 mins. to gain power. This winter we decided to proform some over due maintenance. I told my father I would look on the web for info, so that what led me to this point. I own a Lawn Maintenance and snow plowing company, so I have a lot of time in the winter. I mow grass with top of the line zero turn mowers 6 days a week. I could mow my fathers property in 25 mins, but nothing beats sitting on the cub for a few
hours with a cooler of beer. Thanks for reading and any info on power gain would be helpful. Thanks again!
Rick

[Rudi]

Rick:

First, to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met

The best thing to do, is to sit back, grab something warm or just good to sip on, and continue to do what you are already doing - just read. All kinds of information in the links below. Check out H.L. Chauvin and some of the other articles. They should help you solve your power issues. Not being a mechanic, I would not want to venture too many guesses, but I would probably start in the fuel system and work through that making sure everything is up to snuff. (Check out the articles on the Cub Manual Server), Then, I would move on to the Governor system. Then check and make sure the Air Systems are functioning properly. After that, make sure that the Mag/Dist, Points, Rotor and Condensor throught o the spark plugs are good. Make sure there are solid wires to the plugs and not the composites... Then I would be checking the Oil and Power systems. Basically.. work through one completely. Your choice where you start.. just elimninate one at a time. That should about do it. .

Ok, so here is the spiel :

I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub. One of the other projects we have been working on and it will be a continuing effort is the How To Article Archive. This the the place to go to get all the quick links to some very good articles written by many members of the forum on solving some of the problems we encounter as we repair, maintain and up-grade our Cubs. Keep looking for this to grow.


Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These pages are intended to complement our Official FarmallCub.com Website Sponsors:

JP Tractor Salvage
Ralph's Cubs
TM Tractor Parts

I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.

IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . While you are at it Original Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet is Ken's latest addition to the series. Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are three must have's in anyone's collection.

In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.

Oh, and while the program still lasts.. you might want to check the Announcement: Navistar Free Gas Cap Offer - On-Line Form thread at the top of the Cub Forum and send away for the new style safety cap before that program runs out as well.

I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, to the Cub Family

[Bigdog]

Rick - I would suggest a tune-up including a valve clearance adjustment for starters. Also re-check all manifold bolts and look for signs of gasket leaks that could seal up after things get warm.

[Eugene]

Rick: Welcome to the forum.

My initial thought is the same as BigDog. Air leak at the manifold to block gaskets or at the carburator to manifold gasket.

Suggest tightening the bolts then try an unlit propane torch passed along the gasket areas checking for a leaking gasket. Engine running, torch open - not lit. Engine will rev up when the propane is sucked into the combustion chamber.

Eugene

[cubby]

Rick, welcome to the greatest thing since the cub tractor. I would also agree with the others. I would also try some CRC(orwd40) and spray it around any place a gasket can leak on the intake side of the engine. Good luck, Cubby

[evielboweviel]

Do all the tests that they telll you to.
Then if test don't show anything rebuild the engine as it is tired
Ron

[beaconlight]

Rick welcome. I want to point out the test with the tourch should be done while the engine is cold.

Bill

[cowboy]

Hi Rick

Welcome to the form. I agree with the others. I would also suggest a dry then wet compression test. That will tell you a lot. Also you might want to try running sea foam in the oil and gas. Or even kroil in the cylinders. To clean up any gunk that may be gumming up the rings. I am only 30 to 45 minuts south of you. 10 miles west of cabelas. My cub is in the UP right now but if I can help let me know.

Billy

[RickJH]

Thanks for the much needed suggestions. I plan on checking compression, adjusting valves, rebuilding carb (leaks horribly, would drain gas tank in a few hours if not turned off) replacing bowl, fixing governor (hesitates, slow response to increased throttle) I've read all the articles and FAQs, but any other tips or comments would be great! It's pretty cold here and the section of the barn the tractor occupies is not heated, so I'm trying to use my time efficiently. Thanks for being so helpful, I feel bad asking for it.
Rick

[Don McCombs]

Rick,

Don't feel bad about asking for help. That's what this forum is all about.

[Rudi]

Thanks for the much needed suggestions. I plan on checking compression, adjusting valves, rebuilding carb (leaks horribly, would drain gas tank in a few hours if not turned off) replacing bowl, fixing governor (hesitates, slow response to increased throttle) I've read all the articles and FAQs, but any other tips or comments would be great! It's pretty cold here and the section of the barn the tractor occupies is not heated, so I'm trying to use my time efficiently. Thanks for being so helpful, I feel bad asking for it.
Rick

As Don said.. don't do that...... cause this is what we are all about.... helping each other. Now.. as fer cold.. it is -16 C with a wind chill of -25 C and going down to -40C tonight. So.. I know what ya mean... it is chilly, abit. However..

Couple things you can do.. and you can do them in the house/basement etc... which should keep you warm and toasty.. as well as get a few things done.

1. Drain the gas into a jerry can.
2. Order a Rebuild Kit from TM Tractor Parts, Carter & Grunewald or your local CaseIH Dealer for both the Fuel Sediment Bowl and the 3/4" Updraft Carb. Don't waste your money on the stuff available on eBay or the TSC, TISCO or other aftermarket Carb Kits.

Here are a couple pics of what is available on eBay. This T-Style shut-off is a good one, but the assembly is in doubt as it appears to be generic and not Cub Specific.

FARMALL CUB A AV B C SUPER A & C 100 140 FUEL STRAINER


[url=http://cgi.ebay.com/FUEL-STRAINER-ASSEMBLY-FARMALL-CUB-A-B-C-140-340_W0QQitemZ140081212445QQihZ004QQcategoryZ63955QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem]
FUEL STRAINER ASSEMBLY. FARMALL: CUB, A, B, C, 140 340
[/url]


Farmall Sediment Bowl Assembly Cub A B C 140 more.

At least the last one is the correct name for it... but if you notice.. you pay more on eBay than you would at a CaseIH Dealer. These 3 are all going for $14.99-$16.99 plus S&H.. probably $5.00 or more... and no guarantee. From CaseIH or TM.. you get exactly what you need.

3. Once these two items are done, you will have solved most of your leakage problems. The next thing to do would be to read the How To Article Archive Articles, and the How To Make a Steel Gas Line For Your Cub, and make that line.
4. I would also at this point in time, make sure that the threads on the Fuel Inlet Port are the correct 1/2-20NF threads. If not, then it may be time to repair those threads at the same time.
5. If you are unsure how to repair them, there are a number of threads in the archives on exactly this subject.. so I would Search for Carb Thread Repair or similar. You can repair via JB Weld (not sure how good that is) or you can Helicoil - pretty sure that will get the job done properly..

This should keep you busy for a couple of days. When you got that done.. ask and we can probably come up with a few more things you can do in the house where it is nice and

[beaconlight]

Rick it seems you have missed one important point. The bad question is the one you thought of but didn't ask.