I could use a helpful suggestion

[Steve Butram]

billyandmillie wrote.

I can't imagine not having this Cub around my place. What a back saver.

I couldn’t agree with you more Rick the loader cub is an invaluable tool in my shop. But you have to be realistic about it's capabilities. No more than 300lb. although it is rated at 500lb. But I have a forktruck for the very heavy items.

[bobburke]

The great thing about my loader was it in the next town. It was about a forty min. round trip. I am completing my bypass block install this morning so I will post some pics.

[Rick Prentice]

Here's three of the spec's from different manufacturers. The IH 1000, the Twin-Draulics, and the Wagner.

IH 1000- http://www.tm-tractor.com/gbrochures/1000loader1.jpg

Twin- http://www.tm-tractor.com/gbrochures/tdloader1.jpg

Wagner- http://www.tm-tractor.com/gbrochures/wloader.jpg

I use my homemade set-up for just about everything. The one thing that I don't do is carry a load around with it raised up in the air. That's just asking for trouble. I always lower heavy loads a couple inches off the ground before I go anywhere.

Again, common sense must be used when carrying anything around. You don't want to travel over deep ruts or holes, and if you're someone who's always in a hurry, that's when you'll end up breaking something. This applies for anything, not just loaders.

I believe that all Cubs, with or without a loader, that are broke at the engine ear or other steering parts, are a direct result from either being in a hurry traveling fast over rough terrain, or snatched out by the front axle while being stuck.

Fact:
Will all cubs equiped with a front loader break something?=== Used correctly=I say NO

Can you break something on any un-implemented cub by abusing it or not paying attention?==I say YES

Again, I love mine, and wouldn't trade it anything, unless the price was right and I could build another just like it.

Bring on the counter claims

My .05
Rick

[Rick Prentice]

Bob, you've heard the saying measure twice, cut once. The same goes with the by-pass block install, look over your routings twice, start the engine once. It only takes one hose out of place to "Dead End" your system and destroy your pump,etc.

Check and double check,

Have fun and post those pics,
Rick

[evielboweviel]

Rick said
I use my homemade set-up for just about everything. The one thing that I don't do is carry a load around with it raised up in the air. That's just asking for trouble. I always lower heavy loads a couple inches off the ground before I go anywhere.

Again, common sense must be used when carrying anything around. You don't want to travel over deep ruts or holes, and if you're someone who's always in a hurry, that's when you'll end up breaking something. This applies for anything, not just loaders.

I believe that all Cubs, with or without a loader, that are broke at the engine ear or other steering parts, are a direct result from either being in a hurry traveling fast over rough terrain, or snatched out by the front axle while being stuck.

Fact:
Will all cubs equiped with a front loader break something?=== Used correctly=I say NO

Can you break something on any un-implemented cub by abusing it or not paying attention?==I say YES

Again, I love mine, and wouldn't trade it anything, unless the price was right and I could build another just like it.

I agree 100%.

mine has a 1000 loader on it. I bought it that way, it originally was bought and used at a plant . Never had the front end broke on it. I bought it to use on two acres moved over 100 ton of stone with it and more dirt than that. dug down 30" deep width of the tractor by 10 feet in clay, etc. Bought another set of rear wheels and ran duals with a 5' boxblade on the back for doing the above.

Front end is still not broke, engine needs rebuilt as it is tired and transmission is noisy but front end is good other then tie rod ends at the center have had the balls built back up with weld as they were wore out.

Ron

[bobburke]

Rick, yeah I am taking my time with this. I just had a nice wrestleing match with the steel lines of the touch control. I remember when I had to rebuild the pump a few years back that they seemed a little long, but now adding a block really threw out the alignment. Finally unbolted the tubes from the pump, installed the block a little loose and the ligned it up with the pump. All thats left now is to hook up the 3 lines and fill her up.
Out of the small hole in the manifold into the valve, out of the other side of the valve and into the bottom of the block. Than just the line into the fill hole from the tank.