Fuel line question

[Jim Becker]

I turned the assembly so the bowl and the bail would clear the obstruction, and the leak stopped.

The bowl on the original strainer is centered. If the bowl is hitting something, turning the assembly shouldn't matter. If turning yours does make a difference, it isn't the right assembly.

[FCUBMAN]

I turned the assembly so the bowl and the bail would clear the obstruction, and the leak stopped.

The bowl on the original strainer is centered. If the bowl is hitting something, turning the assembly shouldn't matter. If turning yours does make a difference, it isn't the right assembly.

Yup, you're right. I misstated the situation because I didn't look it over carefully enough in the dark. The bail is what was hitting, not on the head as I said, but the top of the bell housing. The bail was shoving the bowl aside, causing the leak. I took another look today, and don't see anything out of place, but the strainer assembly just has to be in just the right orientation so the bail doesn't hit the bell housing. I just don't have the clearance the pictures show that I should, so it's a safe assumption that this may not be the right strainer. I can make it work by getting the fuel line bent just so, so that's what I'll be doing. It makes getting the hood on and off a little tricky, but I'll manage
It's a great day to be outside - over 60 degrees! I'm loving it, and I should get this Cub back together before the snow flies so that I can plow with it
Brian

[Don McCombs]

How about showing us a photo of what you've got?

[Jim Becker]

Ah, the bell housing. That is different. There are (at least) two different lengths of sediment bowls used on Farmall tractors. The Cub uses the short one. It still sounds like the wrong assembly, just I different reason for the problem than I speculated earlier.

[FCUBMAN]

Ah, the bell housing. That is different. There are (at least) two different lengths of sediment bowls used on Farmall tractors. The Cub uses the short one. It still sounds like the wrong assembly, just I different reason for the problem than I speculated earlier.

THAT'S IT!!!! I hadn't noticed that the bowl in the picture (earlier in this topic - George's picture) is quite a bit shorter than the one that I have....Duh....my bowl appears to be about twice as long as that one. Now, about getting a new one - I seem to remember reading about some strainers being inferior to others - who has the good ones for sale?
Thanks for the heads-up

[FCUBMAN]

How about showing us a photo of what you've got?

Hi Don,
I would be happy to, I just have to figure out how. The only shots that I have of the Cub are over 1.5 MB, too large to upload to the picture site. I will have to take some with lower resolution, perhaps tomorrow, then figure out just how to post them. Ahhh....another learning experience....
But it looks like Jim nailed it - my bowl is much deeper than it should be, thus hitting the bell housing. The PO has a load of Farmalls, and may well have put an original Farmall strainer on the Cub, but from a larger tractor. I can't wait to verify this tomorrow, but I'm quite sure this is the problem.
I appreciate everyone's participation in this topic - I've learned a lot so far, and have a long way to go...
Brian

[Don McCombs]

Brian,

Email them to me and I'll post them for you.

[George Willer]

George:

Can you take a few more pics and measurements when you make the new line, so we can include it in the how to article?

Also, can you take some pics showing how the bends are actually made etc?? That would be of great help to beginners..

I especially like Donny's comment to fill the brake line with fine sand to minimize pinching the line while bending.

Rudi,

I just made up a line that I'm pretty sure will work on Squatty with the underslung exhaust, but it will be quite some time before I put the hood/tank back on to prove it. I made up a space jig using the measurements for the vertical exhaust but locating the bends differently and at other than right angles. The sediment bowl has the same spatial relationship to the carburetor on both tractors.

I took measurements but they would be very difficult to describe. Maybe someone with more talent can write it up Saturday?

In any case, there are four pictures of the jig and line at:

http://gwill.net/Album/Tractors/!How-To/gas%20line/

[George Willer]

I have no idea why the link doesn't work correctly. Copying and pasting does work.

[Don McCombs]

It's the exclamation mark (!) in front of "How-To" in the URL. The board software doesn't like it.

[Rudi]

George:

Actually.. the reason why it isn't working is there is nothing that it is pointing to... There is not index.htm on the How-To directory, so the individual files will have to be linked.

http://gwill.net/Album/Tractors/!How-To/gas%20line/

I see that even under properties.. when accessing from you main page, there is no file extension. It must be hidden inside the data from the html engine that was used to create the site.

Can Jason shed some light






George, can you email me the original un-resized jpegs for the server? Thanks. Neat jig.. details at 11

[Jim Becker]

When I got my first Cub, it had some piece of junk for a fuel line. Since I had no pattern to work from otherwise, I spent a lot of time staring at whatever pictures I could find (mostly in a '47 Owner's Manual) before making one. By the time I finally made it, it ended up very close to the shape of George's new example. It worked fine and isn't that close to the exhaust pipe. Having the vertical part of the line run a diagonal forward as it goes down seems to take care of the clearance problem. I now have a later tractor with the horizontal exhaust and that line has a couple extra bends to get exhaust clearance. I don't know for certain whether that is the original line or not.

[Don McCombs]

Here's the photo of Brian's fuel strainer.