Farmall Cub

George & BW [and anyone else, actually],
You have mentioned the mod necessary for an underslung exhaust, and I vaguely remember seeing some discussion on the board, but of course can't remember it.
Any tips
TIA
Larry

Larry,

Starting with the line as pictured in my how-to article...



The horizontal part from the carburetor must have an offset to bring the line closer to the engine to miss the exhaust. When I made the new line for Shorty I mistakenly made the offset closer to the carb than I should have, but it works fine. When I make a new line for Squatty I'll try to take some useful measurements.

George:

Can you take a few more pics and measurements when you make the new line, so we can include it in the how to article?

Also, can you take some pics showing how the bends are actually made etc?? That would be of great help to beginners..

I especially like Donny's comment to fill the brake line with fine sand to minimize pinching the line while bending.

Suprised that I don't have a good photo of the fuel line on Rufus. Esssentially it was just modeled after the original, but my friend is a car mechanic (a factory trainer now) and has bent up some brake lines in his time. He used his snap-on tubing bender and it looks just like factory.

On Cathy I bent the first one the exact opposite of what it should have been on the second bend. Good thing the line is cheap.

If I had to do one for an underslung I woud be tempted to call Tom at TM and have him send me one. GW makes a good point about the problem if it is wrong.

Thanks guys,
right now the cub is in the shop and I am working to remove the very stubborn allen plugs from the new{?} hyd manifold before installation so that I don't have to later while it is on the tractor.While I am fighting that one, 'might as well...' do a fuel ine also.
Mucho Gracias
Larry

Larry in IN wrote:Thanks guys,
right now the cub is in the shop and I am working to remove the very stubborn allen plugs from the new{?} hyd manifold before installation so that I don't have to later while it is on the tractor.While I am fighting that one, 'might as well...' do a fuel ine also.
Mucho Gracias
Larry

Larry,

At the risk of taking this thread far afield... I wonder why all the allen plugs come out so hard? I didn't think anerobic (sp) sealants like Lock-Tite were even available when our tractors were built. Maybe they are just run in with an impact wrench? Has anyone had success using the hand held impact driver with an allen socket?

Another thought... I can't imagine how the original poster's sediment bowl can have a problem with contacting the engine? All mine are way behind the engine. There must be some added plumbing involved.




Danke schoen,

I believe the original poster stated that when he tightened the sediment bowl far enough to not leak, it was turned to the point that the line hit the rear of the engine.

as far as the allen screws go, everyone I have ever taken out of a cub was extremely hard to turn unless it had been recently loosened. I just assumed that they rammed them in really tight with an air wrench when assembling.

As I've spent my life doing things the hard way, let me ask a simplistic question - why couldn't a guy use a "coil spring" tubing bender to bend this (or any) line to the desired dimension and then put the flares on after the fact ?? Seems much easier to me, but we always used Aeroquip aircraft lines and fittings on all our race cars so I may be well off line here. Craig

Craig - yes, you could bend the line that way. The fittings are compression ferrules. They are not flared.

George Willer wrote:Larry,



The horizontal part from the carburetor must have an offset to bring the line closer to the engine to miss the exhaust. When I made the new line for Shorty I mistakenly made the offset closer to the carb than I should have, but it works fine. When I make a new line for Squatty I'll try to take some useful measurements.

Nice looking! Now I see how to get around the exhaust - thanks!
Brian

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:I believe the original poster stated that when he tightened the sediment bowl far enough to not leak, it was turned to the point that the line hit the rear of the engine.

Hi,
The bowl was hitting the edge of of the head and was being pushed sideways enough to come off of the rubber gasket, causing a really large leak. I turned the assembly so the bowl and the bail would clear the obstruction, and the leak stopped. The fuel line never was a problem, except that it didn't want to line up with the fuel line any more. George's picture shows a bit more room than I have. I think that I need to have a closer look at my situation - perhaps the tank is not sitting quite where it should be. Maybe something is bent somewhere...

FCUBMAN wrote:

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:I believe the original poster stated that when he tightened the sediment bowl far enough to not leak, it was turned to the point that the line hit the rear of the engine.

Hi,
The bowl was hitting the edge of of the head and was being pushed sideways enough to come off of the rubber gasket, causing a really large leak. I turned the assembly so the bowl and the bail would clear the obstruction, and the leak stopped. The fuel line never was a problem, except that it didn't want to line up with the fuel line any more. George's picture shows a bit more room than I have. I think that I need to have a closer look at my situation - perhaps the tank is not sitting quite where it should be. Maybe something is bent somewhere...

FCM,

I see now.

There are a couple possible solutions to the problem of the outlet pointing the wrong direction. The easiest would be to try a different sediment bowl. They are not all the same and a different one could tighten in a different place. Another thing that has worked for me is to modify the threads in the tank VERY SLIGHTLY with a 3/8" pipe tap. Be prepared to use the tap a couple times, only tapping a very little at a time. You certainly wouldn't want to enlarge the hole too much with the tapered tap.

Caution: The threads should never be tightened beyond the point where you want it to end up. Backing up will almost always cause a leak.

FCUBMAN wrote:

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:I believe the original poster stated that when he tightened the sediment bowl far enough to not leak, it was turned to the point that the line hit the rear of the engine.

Hi,
The bowl was hitting the edge of of the head and was being pushed sideways enough to come off of the rubber gasket, causing a really large leak. I turned the assembly so the bowl and the bail would clear the obstruction, and the leak stopped. The fuel line never was a problem, except that it didn't want to line up with the fuel line any more. George's picture shows a bit more room than I have. I think that I need to have a closer look at my situation - perhaps the tank is not sitting quite where it should be. Maybe something is bent somewhere...

Is it possible you have an after market sediment bowl assembly ro possibly one form a Ford that is wider than the original?

Hi,
The bowl was hitting the edge of of the head and was being pushed sideways enough to come off of the rubber gasket, causing a really large leak. I turned the assembly so the bowl and the bail would clear the obstruction, and the leak stopped. The fuel line never was a problem, except that it didn't want to line up with the fuel line any more. George's picture shows a bit more room than I have. I think that I need to have a closer look at my situation - perhaps the tank is not sitting quite where it should be. Maybe something is bent somewhere... [/quote]

FCM,

I see now.

There are a couple possible solutions to the problem of the outlet pointing the wrong direction. The easiest would be to try a different sediment bowl. They are not all the same and a different one could tighten in a different place. Another thing that has worked for me is to modify the threads in the tank VERY SLIGHTLY with a 3/8" pipe tap. Be prepared to use the tap a couple times, only tapping a very little at a time. You certainly wouldn't want to enlarge the hole too much with the tapered tap.

Caution: The threads should never be tightened beyond the point where you want it to end up. Backing up will almost always cause a leak.[/quote]

<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>

Gotcha - thanks!

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:

FCUBMAN wrote:

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:I believe the original poster stated that when he tightened the sediment bowl far enough to not leak, it was turned to the point that the line hit the rear of the engine.

Hi,
The bowl was hitting the edge of of the head and was being pushed sideways enough to come off of the rubber gasket, causing a really large leak. I turned the assembly so the bowl and the bail would clear the obstruction, and the leak stopped. The fuel line never was a problem, except that it didn't want to line up with the fuel line any more. George's picture shows a bit more room than I have. I think that I need to have a closer look at my situation - perhaps the tank is not sitting quite where it should be. Maybe something is bent somewhere...

Is it possible you have an after market sediment bowl assembly ro possibly one form a Ford that is wider than the original?

<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>

It's possible, but if so, it's been on there a long time from the look of it. It is also the kind that you need to back out the valve so that it can backseat so it doesn't leak when open, so it seems like the genuine article. Of course, it could be an old aftermarket unit. I won't know more until I get out there and look tomorrow. Work just keeps getting in the way of the really important things! Retirement, here I come - soon, maybe