Brian:
First,
to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met
FCUBMAN wrote:I am having a hard time getting the hood/tank back on properly after fixing the generator. The filter bowl hits the engine unless it (the filter bowl) is rotated to just the right position. Otherwise it leaks gasoline, and will probably break it sooner or later. If I turn the bowl to clear the engine, the gas line doesn’t line up without a lot of tension on it. The tank itself only fits in one position, so moving it rearward is out. I would like to use some gas-line hose to replace the existing copper tubing. Is there any reason I shouldn't do that? I would retain the copper tubing where it passes the exhaust pipe because of the heat. There is quite some stress on the existing tubing where it enters the carb, and those threads don't look all that great anyway, so I would like to relieve the stress on that, too. I would use the copper tubing with ferrule at each end, say for an inch or so, and clamp the gasoline tubing to each stub. Anyone have any thoughts on that idea?
It is great having a resource like this -
I'm hoping that I can offer some help to someone else one of these days...All input is greatly appreciated, and no electrons were harmed in the creation of this message.
Couple points:
1. Replace your existing fuel supply line with a proper Steel Gas Line. You can see how to do this in George Willer's excellent How To Make a Steel Gas Line For Your Cub . Your idea of using ferrules is a good one, and in fact it is part of George's fix.
2. Do not use a rubber gas line and get rid of the copper fuel line ASAP.... bad idea. Way too many Krispy Kubs out there because of using copper or rubber which have failed.
3. Do Not use an in-line fuel filter... bad idea.. just gums up the works. Instead rebuild and make sure the Fuel Sediment Bowl is clean and re-assembled properly and mounted correctly on the tank. Also re-build if required, the IH 3/4" UpDraft Carb. Lurker Carl's Cub Carb Fixes is an excellent series of articles on how to do this
4. Plastic shut-offs next to the carb will work, but are not adviseable as they may overheat, melt and result in a Krispy Kub...
5. It took me a while to figure out how to get the Fuel Sediment Bowl Assembly to line up properly.. it is a matter of starting it correctly in the threads. This from my experience is something you just do until you get it right.
6. Dave's thoughts on why to use the plastic shut-off is an oft repeated complaint.. it is hard on the fingers. If you are not restoring to mint and want a working tractor, I suggest you investigate the acquisition of the correct fittings to allow a ball valve to be used. You can use the Search function to search the archives for ball valves. I use one on Ellie-Mae and it works nifty.
7. One of the reasons why the fuel inlet threads seem funky to you, is propably because the PO did not understand that those threads are 1/2-20 and not 3/8"NPT. Common error. Again use the Search function to search the archives for threads on Inlet Thread Repair.
I hope some of this is helpful. Keep us posted on how you make out, and yup.. already doing that..
contributing that is
Ok, so here is the spiel
:
I would suggest that you read this thread:
New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the
ATIS FAQ's 1 and
ATIS FAQ's 2,
The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub.
Also, you might want to visit the
Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the
Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both
Used Parts Suppliers and
New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for
YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These pages are intended to complement our Official
FarmallCub.com Website Sponsors:
I would also recommend that you visit
Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the
Owner's Manual, the
GSS-1411 Service Manual and the
TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the
Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy.
Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the
I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.
IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of
Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . While you are at it
Original Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet is Ken's latest addition to the series. Along with
Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are three must have's in anyone's collection.
In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as
Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's,
Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques,
Implement and Part Sketches and of course the
Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.
Oh, and while the program still lasts.. you might want to check the
Announcement: Navistar Free Gas Cap Offer - On-Line Form thread at the top of the Cub Forum and send away for the new style safety cap before that program runs out as well.
I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again,
to the Cub Family