Starter Problem - 49 Cub

[Dave.49.cub]

Hi all,

I need some advice. I have a 49 Cub working trasctor that I've been working on and improving for about 3 years now.

The starter seems to have a dead spot on it. I pulled the start handle the other day and it started to turn the engine then just stopped dead. I pull the handle now and nuthin! I jacked the right back wheel up, put it in 3rd and spun the wheel and it cranks right up.

It did this one before. The battery is charged and good and it has always had a very strong cranking starter.

Any ideas or thoughts? I bet if I could turn the started a little it would crank right up.

Thanks!

Dave

[Bigdog]

Dave - start by checking the switch mounted on the starter. Remove it and check the contacts. They are a high-current switch and they do take a lot of abuse. The stud that sticks up out of the starter is replaceable too.
Just a place to start.

[Dave.49.cub]

Thanks for that Bigdog. I used to hear my Dad talking about "dead" spots on the "armiture" (?) I always thought maybe the starter amiture with all the wire windings need to be cleaned and put back in. Anyone know what kind of maintenance you can do on the starter in addition to what Bigdog has indicated?

Thanks,
Dave

[Matt Kirsch]

I bet that what you have is a bad Bendix end on your starter and/or a worn ring gear.

The starter is jamming against the ring gear. That's why you can rotate the wheel, and the starter works again. Do you feel a "pop" when you first rock the wheel? That's the starter coming unjammed.

[Bus Driver]

With a clip-on voltmeter at the starter switch cable connection, a full voltage reading that does not change when the starter rod is pulled indicates a bad starter switch or problems internal to the starter. Full voltage that drops to zero when the starter rod is pulled indicates possible problems in connections and conductors or with the battery itself. Voltage that drops sharply to about 4 volts, but not to zero, when the starter rod is pulled possibly indicates a jammed starter drive. With the meter at the battery, further testing is possible.

[Bigdog]

I have seen the problem you describe created by bad battery cable connections. Under a zero current load you can read a full battery voltage but when you apply a load the voltage drops across the bad connection. Some readings at various points as Bus Driver suggests will tell you a lot. In any case, it won't hurt to clean all battery connections at the cable ends and especially the ground. Be sure to clean both ends of both cables. And if any of your cables has had the ends replaced with those "bolt on" universal cable ends, be sure to dis-assemble them and clean the cable wires as well as the cable ends.

[beaconlight]

The problem with your problem is that any the offered possibilities could be the cause. I use the KISS system. (KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID) it costs less. I have to continuously remind my self of this. First I would clean and grease all the electrical connections Unfortunately you can't do some of todays crimped connections so the volt meter trick goes here. Cheap price so far. Next i would check the contact on the top of the starter. If it needs replacing, not too expensive. The possibility of the starter hanging up on the ring gear can be checked easily. When the starter stops lossen the mounting bolts and if listening you will the bendix retract. At this point you have the starter half way out. Take it out and look at the ring gear and bendix. I would take the starter apart next to look at the brushes and armature. Melted lead or burn spots on the armature are obvious problems and past that many of us should head for a repair shop. To clean and tighten the connections connections will help the new starter if you have to replace.

Bill

[VinceD]

Dave, I had a similar problem. The starter would work perfectly then without warning - nothing. If I pulled the starter, turned the armature slightly and re-installed, it would start immediately. I tried most of the excellent suggestions (above) to no avail.

I finally broke down and took it to a local starter-generator shop. The owner pulled the armature, checked each segment and found three "dead spots". He soldered the three places, put it back together and it has worked perfectly since. The charge was minimal. Hope this helps.

[Dave.49.cub]

Thanks All for the great advice. I'm leaning to agreeing with VinceD. His experience sounds just like mine. I will go aver all the connections and clean and grease.

I'm going to test my therory and remove the starter, turn the armature slightly and put it back on and see if it starts right up. If so - I'll head off to a starter/generator shop and see what they can do.

Anyone know if NAPA does this kind of work?

It sure is great to have some many folks of a like mind willing to share their experience and advice.

Thanks - I'll report back on this.

Dave

[junkman1946]

Most Napa stores had gen.starter test equipment some of the older ones probably still have it out back. The problem is finding someone who knows how to use the equipment and repair it correctly. We are in a throw-away society. Try to find an Oldtimer still spinning wrenches he'll know how to fix it.

[Eugene]

Actually the starter is fairly simple to repair. Usual problem areas are brushes worn out, bushing worn out-armature dragging, bad commutator and overrunning clutch.

Brushes and bearings (bushings) are available at your local autoparts store. Overrunning clutch = probably a CAse IH part.

Commutator. If not out of round, cupped, or overly worn these can be cleaned up. If badly distorted it needs to be turned on a lathe.

Old highschool automotive shop manuals had pretty good instructions on repairing a starter. Most bench testing on the starter parts can be done with a multimeter.

Suggest taking the starter apart yourself. Replace the bushings, brushes and clean up the commutator. It will probably work. the worst that can happen is you have to take it to a repair shop and get charged extra cause you worked on it first.

Eugene