We test drove the '48 with hicrop rears. Old #17133:
It's still 6V and fired first lick but the bendix kicks out real fast before the engine is running. After many short pops, we either ran the battery down or the starter got hot. After a batt. charger shot, it started and ran very smoothly. Idled down and ran well.
The clutch is about 80% free play and takes-up at the very end of the travel of the pedal. It does work smoothly but it's at the bottom of the travel where all the action is. 1st engages with a chunk, like I didn't wait long enough or should have hit 3rd before selecting 1st.
Right side brake doesn't work. When you look into the hole from the rear you can see the band is not on the drum... Comparing the two sides; it looks more like the drum is too far inboard rather than the band being too far outboard but this is all new to me and with the offset, the two sides are a bit different looking.
PTO engages properly and mower works.
Hydraulics work well and hold at any position.
The muffler is "sitting" loosely on a 12" brass pipe nipple that is screwed into the exhaust manifold.
One tie rod end has lots of play.
Two different size rear tires.
Aftermarket choke cable broken. Did the original choke control mirror the starter hoop?
Oil drip is from pan drain, looks not to be a seal.
Did a test drive in the yard down a hill and after pulling back up the hill in 2nd gear nicely loaded up, she died. Seemed like it ran out of gas. Started after a couple tries with the short engaging bendix. There is a good layer of rust in the glass fuel bowl; could be a float problem or junk in the carb.
Conclusion: I'm bowing out of the negotiations between my two friends at this point. She's a little rough but runs quite well with no hint of smoke. The buyer likes it. The seller wants out. The buyer wants to give it a new caring home and begin restoration. It's all pretty good.
Thanks for the great help on this board; your expertise makes this Christmas shopping experience way more comfortable. C.
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Test drive of the pseudo hicrop "51"...it's a '48
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- Brandon Webb
- 10+ Years
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- Tractors Owned: 1957 Farmall Cub High Crop
1969 International 140
1975 International Cub
Cub 174 Planter with Row Markers
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No. 27 Corn and Pea Attachments
No. 12 Rotary Weeder Attachment
Pittsburg Carry-Lift
Brookfield Buzz Saw
IH McCormick Seed Plate Test Stand - Location: London, Kentucky
What are they asking for it? If your friend wants something to "tinker" with and then use, I'd say go for it. But it sounds like it needs a little tuning to be dependable. Working on cubs is alot of fun, and he can become a member here and ask all kinds of questions and make lots of new friends. Tractors can become a lifestyle, not just something to work with. The high crop tires new are $250+ each and only available through Miller Tire. The Tubes are pricey too. I've learned to buy what you want before someone else does. The cub you don't buy, someone else will. Brandon.
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repairs
Thanks... I would appreciate comments on the repairs: brakes, clutch adjustment and/or fix, tie rod ends, ect.
He will become a member here and I will be helping him with research and repairs. We've worked together 14 years. Thanks again, C.
He will become a member here and I will be helping him with research and repairs. We've worked together 14 years. Thanks again, C.
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Brakes: It's probably just like mine was. The grub screw that holds the brake drum in place has probably worked loose over time, the drum worked itself sideways, and the half-moon key fell out. Two-man job to repair, but not difficult.
Clutch: The pedal should have 1" of free travel when properly adjusted. That is adjusted by the bolt and slot down by the pivot point for the clutch pedal. Once you get proper free travel, the "chunk" should go away.
If you can't adjust it for 1" of free travel, the clutch is shot, and will need to be replaced.
One tip when adjusting: if you push the pedal all the way down and it starts to grind, give it a little more free play. The clutch is being pushed TOO far.
Clutch: The pedal should have 1" of free travel when properly adjusted. That is adjusted by the bolt and slot down by the pivot point for the clutch pedal. Once you get proper free travel, the "chunk" should go away.
If you can't adjust it for 1" of free travel, the clutch is shot, and will need to be replaced.
One tip when adjusting: if you push the pedal all the way down and it starts to grind, give it a little more free play. The clutch is being pushed TOO far.
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