"Uncle Bob" had a leaky head bolt, so I removed the head. Even thought he was running pretty good when I begin the restore, I need some advice as what to do next.
Remember. I am not a mechanic. I have already done more to this engine than I ever have in 68 years of age and I am just getting started.
I have pulled the head, manifold, oil pan and valve cover. I don't see how an engine could be dirtier than this. Lots of sludge, crud, rust build up and gunk. I haven't cleaned anything yet as I am waiting for a friend of mine who used to own the local IH dealership to look at what I have. The valves look pretty good with no burning or pitting. The engine was overhauled several years ago with very little use since. The cylinder walls look and feel very good.
The questions I have are:
What is the best way to clean the sludge from engine? Flush it from top down through crankcase? What with? Diesel fuel? Kerosene?
Should I remove valves and springs?
What about oil pump? With the pan off, is the pump hard to remove and clean?
Some of your advice may be to take to machine shop for degreasing, dye check and magnaflux, etc. I am retired and on a limited income, so money is an issue.
Remember. I am not a mechanic
I do have most of the manuals.
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Dirty "Gunky" Engine
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Dirty "Gunky" Engine
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Since you already have the innards pretty much exposed I would just physically clean out what you can using what tools you desire with Elbow Grease. Then I would put it back together and run it with 30# detergent motor oil. Keep checking the oil and when it shows dirty give it about 3 quick oil changes after dirty oil checks. I do this and it cleans itself out.
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Be very carefull cleaning the cylinder walls, you do not wnat to score them. A good kerosene soak works well, followed by using a soft brass brush scrubbing or a dish scrubber. I spray the valves and hard to reach places with carb cleaner in the can. SeaFoam also cleans parts very easily. Let the chemicals do the work.
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Remember, the active cleaning ingredient in oven cleaner is lye !! It eats aluminum big time. I'd never use it internally and carefully externally. The problem is it works best above 65 degrees and in a closed environment. Cast iron collectors clean it with oven cleaner, but the spray the piece and then put it in a plastic bag and seal it up. Tough on one's lungs as well.
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Hey BIGHOSS, you say." in 68 years of age and I am just getting started. ". .
I'm not a mechanic either. I did just about what you have done to my old '47, just because I wanted to take it apart and see. I went about as far as i felt safe . Everything was clean inside, and the little Cub ran perfect , so why mess with anything. I agree with what johnbron said too. A few fast oil changes will clean Uncle Bob out
What happened to all that money you got from selling that Cub tachometer on ebay last year
I'm not a mechanic either. I did just about what you have done to my old '47, just because I wanted to take it apart and see. I went about as far as i felt safe . Everything was clean inside, and the little Cub ran perfect , so why mess with anything. I agree with what johnbron said too. A few fast oil changes will clean Uncle Bob out
What happened to all that money you got from selling that Cub tachometer on ebay last year
"The time you spend making sure you are safe is probably the most productive time you can spend!"
George Willer
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