New to list, how to adjust the play in the steering?

[Cecil]

Those Cubs sitting in the field and hedgerows are the ones I always look for. I can never find them here in NY. Maybe I need to take a trip up to Maine. One of the reasons they were so popular there was for working the potatoe fields.

[mainer4]

Well, worked on the cub Sunday afternoon, replaced the starter switch due to the stripped electrode. Took off the rotor and intermediate place covering the points. The points looked fine but we set a little closer than factory to readjusted accordingly. Checked the kill switch and cleaned up the connections there. The rotor looked questionable and the cap's center electrode (carbon) was very very worn. Put it back together and tried firing it up to no avail. Pulled the center wire and confirmed heavy spark, pulled plug and wire, cleaned connections, confirmed no fire at all to two different grounds. I am going to replace the cap and rotor and wires just to be sure since clearly I am not getting fire from the distributor.

Now for more questions.
1.) My neighbor (Cob's owner) didn't realize that it has a manual spark advance mechanism. In my own infinite experience I have never owned a machine with a separate spark advance (I am only 54), but at least I understand the purpose for one (he doesn't). Anyways, basic question, is forward advanced and backward retarded?
2.) For cold start how much advance (forward or backward?) - what notch?
3.) For warm start how much advance?
4.) For 1200 RPM running on light load conditions how much advance?

More observations:
1.) The carb overflow continually - my neighbor had someone "dip the carb" but it doesn't look like anyone took it apart as the original crumbling gasket looks untouched. My guess is dirt or varnish on the valve seat or a leaking corroded float (probably made of brass????).
2.) Pulled a plug to check the compression and noted no fuel on the plug. Checked the exhaust pipe and it seems like for every revolution or so it is pulling back in as much as it is pushing out so I am guessing stuck or leaky valves. WILL a good soaking with Marvel mystery oil or diesel fuel free up a sticking valve? I had a similar problem with my HONDA CB750 but the engine was running and eventually with some Chevron Techron and Duralube it came out of nicely.

Anyway, end of the story is I am gonna see what is available online for carb rebuild kits and spark plug wires. Got the cap and rotor at NAPA already. Stay tuned (any advice welcome as long as it is free!)

[Bigdog]

Manual spark advance??? Please post pictures. Never seen one on a cub!
Get a real IH carb kit for the carb. It costs more but is complete. Try T.M. or Carter & Gruenewald for one.
Sounds like you are on the right track with the valves. Marvel does wonders.
Make sure the plug wires you get are solid core wires and not composite.

[Rudi]

Howard:

Here is the best tips I can give you...

Go back to the welcome wagon... the techniques are all here:

I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.

1.) My neighbor (Cob's owner) didn't realize that it has a manual spark advance mechanism. In my own infinite experience I have never owned a machine with a separate spark advance (I am only 54), but at least I understand the purpose for one (he doesn't). Anyways, basic question, is forward advanced and backward retarded?
2.) For cold start how much advance (forward or backward?) - what notch?
3.) For warm start how much advance?
4.) For 1200 RPM running on light load conditions how much advance?

You should look at these articles: Magneto Clean-up and Rebuild by Donny Millar and Replacing Magneto Seals by Dave Smith. Working with a Mag is not like a distributor. Read the articles, apply them to your specific need.

More observations:
1.) The carb overflow continually - my neighbor had someone "dip the carb" but it doesn't look like anyone took it apart as the original crumbling gasket looks untouched. My guess is dirt or varnish on the valve seat or a leaking corroded float (probably made of brass????).
2.) Pulled a plug to check the compression and noted no fuel on the plug. Checked the exhaust pipe and it seems like for every revolution or so it is pulling back in as much as it is pushing out so I am guessing stuck or leaky valves. WILL a good soaking with Marvel mystery oil or diesel fuel free up a sticking valve? I had a similar problem with my HONDA CB750 but the engine was running and eventually with some Chevron Techron and Duralube it came out of nicely.

Again, I would suggest that you read Lurker Carl's Cub Carb Fixes series of articles, which will walk you through your carb problems.

Couple important points.

1. Investigate on-line carb kits to your hearts content, but if you want to do it right.. pay attention to the part numbers in the Carb Fixes articles and ONLY buy, Genuine IH Carb Rebuild Kits. You can get them from TM Tractor Parts, Carter & Grunewald and ask for Ken Updike.. and you can get them at your local CaseIH/GlobalNH Dealer.

2. I would highly recommend that you Do not buy Tisco. Do not buy TSC, Do not buy the generics on eBay. You will be throwing money out the window.

3. Before you investigate on-line deals.. you may want to read some of the threads in this particular search of the archives : Carb Rebuild Kits, it does explain a lot. There are a few not so applicable threads, but they are a good read and help explain the rationale.

4. For Mag Parts such as the original coil.. and a good cap... for the Mag, you might want to talk to Jon Sommerville, who is our resident MagMan and repair guy. You can contact him by PM or Email .

5. Donny Millar also is a real magician on Mags as you can see by his articles. Both Donny and Jon are top notch in my book....

These suggestions are just my opinion, hopefully others will chime in on this..

The biggest help we can be for you is to advise you to Read and Read again all the stuff in the How To Forum and on the Cub Manual Server. That is the real scoop...

[mainer4]

I don't have anyway of taking and sharing pictures so I went through the gallery till I found a picture of what I am talking about. See this picture:

http://photos.cubfest.com/displayimage. ... 18&pos=231

Note that there are two levers. The outer one is the hand throttle, the inner lever has a rod that goes to the front of the magneto assembly. I was assuming that this lever was a spark advance like they had on some of the old Model T's and such. Remember this is a 1948 FCUB, so maybe they replaced it with vacuum or mechanica advance when IH changed over to coil/distributor setup?

[Bigdog]

The cub utilizes a governor control system. The lever with the notched quadrant controls the governor which controls the carb throttle position. the outer lever in the picture controls the touch control hydraulic system.

[mainer4]

Hi there! So this works on the same principle that a lawnmower or snowblower throttle control works? That is, the "throttle" actually goes to the governor which then control the actual throttle on the carb, resulting in a consistent (regardless of load) RPM from the engine, just what you want when tilling or such like gardening activity....

Incidentally, I did check out the online references regarding the carburetor and I must say I am impressed with the detail and degree of information here. But now I am a little more hesitant about jumping into some of these systems. If it was my tractor I would pull the gas tank and hood structure off and go completely through everything rather than trying to get it to run in its current unknown status. But that is just me. The owner is willing to spend money on it, I just hope we can figure everything out that is wrong after spending the money on it. Still, it seems simple enough as long as the 50+ year old screws and bolts come off easily (so far so good).

The generator I know is going to need some attention from the fact that when I tried to turn the shaft manually it squeaked in protest.... But that is OK, the belt is ready to fall apart anyway...

[Bigdog]

Sounds like you're on the right track now. Just take things one at a time until you get it running. You can then assess how much needs to be done over all. Good luck and just let us know what we can do to help.

[Rudi]

Hi there! So this works on the same principle that a lawnmower or snowblower throttle control works? That is, the "throttle" actually goes to the governor which then control the actual throttle on the carb, resulting in a consistent (regardless of load) RPM from the engine, just what you want when tilling or such like gardening activity....

Incidentally, I did check out the online references regarding the carburetor and I must say I am impressed with the detail and degree of information here. But now I am a little more hesitant about jumping into some of these systems. If it was my tractor I would pull the gas tank and hood structure off and go completely through everything rather than trying to get it to run in its current unknown status. But that is just me. The owner is willing to spend money on it, I just hope we can figure everything out that is wrong after spending the money on it. Still, it seems simple enough as long as the 50+ year old screws and bolts come off easily (so far so good).

The generator I know is going to need some attention from the fact that when I tried to turn the shaft manually it squeaked in protest.... But that is OK, the belt is ready to fall apart anyway...

Well, you are on the right track as BD said.. so here is some more interesting help. Lurker Carl's Cub Governor Rebuild, should be of help to you in understanding the Cub setup. In concert with the other resources on this site, and the Cub Manual Server's section on Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, the manuals and a few judicious questions, you will be well on your way to understanding and fixing the Mag and Genny problems.

Don't be hesitant. Dig right in. With your previous experience, you will be well served. It is not all that complicated,. If I as a simple cabinet maker can do it, you sure as heck can.. and remember there are lots of people here to help you through it.

[Jim Becker]

The generator I know is going to need some attention from the fact that when I tried to turn the shaft manually it squeaked in protest.... But that is OK, the belt is ready to fall apart anyway...

The squeaking from the generator could just be from the brushes. If so, it can be completely normal.

[mainer4]

Well we finally figured out enough of what was wrong to get er started. We got spark when I installed the new cap (wrong rotor, another story) but still didn't seem to be getting gas to the plugs - they were dry. Took all the plugs out and did a compression test after dumping a little gas into one cylinder and getting nothing. I had noticed a cadence in the turning of the engine and found 100PSI for #1 and #2, 60PSI for #3 and 145PSI for #4 (which is the one we put fuel into). I put some fuel into #3 and rechecked the compression and it came up to about 80PSI so I figure the valves are ok, just the rings stuck or worn. So back to the ignition. With fuel and compression it had to be the ignition - it was, the timing was all messed up and the wires in the cap were not correct (I was careful honest). Turns out the owner's son had pulled the rotor completely off and hadn't paid any attention to its position. SO after getting things pretty much to where they should be it started right up and settled down to a nice strong idle with no smoke!!! The owner was pleased as punch to say the least. He drove it up and down the driveway after I checked the oil pressure (good) and the ammeter (no charging). The hydraulic activator works and it moves and stops. Doesn't seem to have much power and there seems to be an incredible amount of slop in the linkage between the governor and the carb.

That magneto impulse drive thing really had me going, I thought there was something seriously wrong when I watched it turn while I was cranking the engine. Good thing the manual describes it as an impulse drive because as an engineer I immediately understood the principle of the drive and the importance of the lubrication oiler on the drive assembly.

Generator does not put out and the carb still leaks, the radiator kept things cool but could see a little steam whisping up after it had run a bit. Now I need to buy the correct rotor, both belts, oil cartridge and convince the owner it is time to pull the cover off so we can really go through it. Thanks for all the help and encouragement!

[kinelbor]

Hey, welcome fellow Mainer! I am from the northern part of the state, just north of Caribou and Presque Isle area, in New Sweden. Hope to meet you someday.

[mainer4]

Hey, welcome fellow Mainer! I am from the northern part of the state, just north of Caribou and Presque Isle area, in New Sweden. Hope to meet you someday.

The feeling is mutual! My friend's cub is also a 1948 model! We don't get that far north, we have a camp in Millinocket area though, nice people, nice country - definitely a relief from southern Maine!

[Buzzard Wing]

Sounds like you are doing fine.... sure wish I had seen the maiden voyage.

Seems a bit odd, but I am closer to your than our good friend Nik. He is quite wise in the ways of the Cub!

Pretty tough to do much with the hood on, and everything I have done has been with the hood off. Couple of tips before you do that: put a good penetrating oil (Kroil or PB Blaster) on the screws that hold the dog legs and the dash on. Be especially careful of the two bottom ones on the dog legs, they are in to the casting and real easy to break Can't hurt to put some on the radiator drain plug too, cause they can be stubborn.

The belts are available from NAPA or any good auto parts store. They also have the filters (got two on my front seat) For the fan, THE SHAFT, NOT THE NUT turns. NAPAONLINE.COM is good for finding the dimensions from the IH numbers (non NAPA number), so 251 428 R1 (fan belt) gives you this when you click the product name:

Angle Degree:36
Imperial Length:31.3" (795mm)
Top Width:.75" (19mm)
Trouble with that is you can get GREEN parts:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/Bu ... ed764d.jpg

I prefer to use Case IH parts. Tom at TM is a great source of OEM parts. At least the OEM cap is keyed.

The cooling system is thermosyphon (no water pump, not pressurized), so if it is 'full' some will come out. Probably not a big deal. It will find it's own level.

Could be the generator is not putting out because it's not polarized. If your VR is on top of the generator I don't know an easy way to do that with the hood on. If its exposed it's just a matter of jumpin the terminal on the side by itself to the center one on the other side. Not the standard setup, but you can see the tabs on this one. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/Bu ... 1Small.jpg

Can't hurt to drain the tranny and steering gear box. Both are prone to getting water in em.

Good luck, hope to meet up with you one day soon....

Larry