New to list, how to adjust the play in the steering?

[mainer4]

Hi - new to the group but I don't own a Cub, my neighbor does. He just bought a 1948 Cub from someone in Vermont and carted it home to play around with in his veggie garden. Anyways he has asked me to help him get it going. I have checked out some of the technical archives printed out the HL Chavin's messages summary someone put together as well as the on line electrical schematic and Donny Millar's very nice Magneto clean up piece. (Right now we don't have spark). I haven't really done anything but look at it (yesterday) but I told him I would go on line (he doesn't have access). I have lots of basic mechanical experience between my old Honda motorcycles and my old '74 Spitfire (which engine was derived from a tractor engine design back in the late 30's) so I think I will be able to get it running for him.

Nuff of the intro, here is the question. There is signficant play in the steering box (not the linkage!) and I am wondering if there is an adjustment like there is on most of the older worm gear automotive steering boxes. If there is I don't see what I am used to seeing so any help?

[Bigdog]

This drawing in the parts manual will give you an idea of what you are dealing with:

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20 ... 005-02.jpg

There is no adjustment as you have already figured out but check for end play in the steering wheel shaft. If it is excessive you may be able to replace the thrust washers and get improvement. Take a look at the worm gear for wear. If it is worn, you can rotate it 180 degrees and get off the highly worn areas.

And welcome aboard! Let us know what you find.

[Rudi]

mainer4:

First, to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met

Hello there nearly neighbour Well you have gotten a few good pieces of information already. HL Chauvin's articles are excellent and are one of the tools I used to learn about my first Cub Ellie-Mae.

I cannot however under-emphasise the usefulness and the need to have the main Bibles of Cub-Dom.. being those listed below. Until your neighbour has his own copies, please feel free to consult the GSS-1411 Service Manual, the Owner's Manual and the TC-37F series of Parts Manuals for the wonderful Parts Schematics and Breakdowns.. they are excellent and will help a lot.

Much of what you will need, can be found simply by researching here on the Forum.. and consulting these manuals..

There is signficant play in the steering box (not the linkage!) and I am wondering if there is an adjustment like there is on most of the older worm gear automotive steering boxes. If there is I don't see what I am used to seeing so any help?

Others, more experienced in the archaic arts of Steering geometry and function will be along to help you out on that question, but my main area of ability it seems is to provide mainly links to the information needed. One can explain in detail, but without a common reference point, all is for naught..

Please, do read up on the subject, it will come clear.

I have checked out some of the technical archives printed out the HL Chavin's messages summary someone put together as well as the on line electrical schematic and Donny Millar's very nice Magneto clean up piece. (Right now we don't have spark). I haven't really done anything but look at it (yesterday) but I told him I would go on line (he doesn't have access).

These are good articles. Dennis our Site Admin gleaned much of those articles from posts on the old forum, Donny wrote the Magneto rebuild and an excellent one it is. You should look at Lurker Carl's Carb Fixes as well. Remember, if you have Air, Spark and Fuel, you will have ignition. You do not have spark, so the problem must be in the coil/points/condensor system. Check it all out. Do not assume that if it looks ok it actually is. Condensor's right out of the box have often been defective.. such is the price of progress Check the point gap. Check and make sure the grounds are all good and clean. And read H.L. Chauvin... a lot.

With that.. welcome to the Forum
Ok, so here is the spiel :

I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub.

Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These pages are intended to complement our Official FarmallCub.com Website Sponsors:

JP Tractor Salvage
Ralph's Cubs
TM Tractor Parts

I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.

IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . While you are at it Original Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet is Ken's latest addition to the series. Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are three must have's in anyone's collection.

In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.

Oh, and while the program still lasts.. you might want to check the Announcement: Navistar Free Gas Cap Offer - On-Line Form thread at the top of the Cub Forum and send away for the new style safety cap before that program runs out as well.

I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, to the Cub Family

[Cecil]

The biggest thing I have found so far is the end play in the tie rods. Check the tie rods by moving them back and forth by hand. If there is a lot of movement try this. Remove the cotter pin on the end by the spindles. Tighten up the end cap with a large screwdriver until it is as tight as you want and can still get the cotter pin back in. In the center where the tie rods hook to the steering arm remove the 2 bolts and remove the shims until the tie rod ends are tight with little slop. This could be trial and error. I have taken a lot of slop out of 4 Cubs by just making this adjustment.

[Buzzard Wing]

Welcome Mainer!

Cecil is right (as always) about taking up slop, pretty easy too.

We have a few folks up in Maine these days.... I keep hoping to see someone around a place I go by often in Limington to ask why the hood was off the Cub all summer.

You found the right place to ask.... lots of wisdom here.

Nice of you to help out your neighbor.... soon you will want your own Cub!

Larry

[VinceD]

Welcome Mainer4,

I had two problems with my steering box - oil leakage and vertical movement of the steering arm. If you have to pull things apart, I would suggest replacing the seal (#22) and the thrust washer (#23). I replaced both and followed the manual closely on putting things back together. My oil leak and vertical movement both disappeared. Add the great suggestions above and your steering problems may be gone. Just a suggestion.

Welcome to a great forum.

[capecodcub]

Instead of working on the steering, I would concentrate on getting the motor going first. Without that, nothing else matters. Start diagnosing whether your timing is off, Magneto or distributor, battery connections, all that stuff. Good luck, this board has helped me out to get mine going and I have only owned it for a month!!

[Boss Hog]

If you do have vertical movement Take care not to get it too tight as this will cause hard steering. The up and down slop can be removed by losenning the bolt on the pitman link and tighten the nut on the worm gear.
David

[mainer4]

Thanks for all the replies and advice!... We are definitely going to focus on getting it running as a priority, the steering can wait till later. We will work on it Saturday cuz it is supposed to warm back up into the low 40's as opposed to the low 20's we are having right now!

Another issue we have to address is the stud on the starter is completely stripped, there isn't a single usable thread left. I am hoping that the stud is nothing special, but I suspect it is actually one half of the primary contact switch within the starter. I am going to search around a little and see if there is a good breakdown on the starter like there was on the Magneto.

I will keep everyone advised on our progress. Anyone in the neighborhood of Brackett's Apple Orchard on Rte 11 is welcome to drop by on Saturday, Guy Poulin is the owner of the Cub! Howard

[Bigdog]

The stud you mention is part of the starter switch. (if the set-up is still original) The switch is available from many sources including TSC etc.

[Matt Kirsch]

mainer4,

Like BD says, the switch is easily replaced. It sits on the starter like a saddle, correct? Very inexpensive part to replace.

[mainer4]

Hi Matt;
I picked one up at my local NAPA store, $14.95, had two right in stock.

[Buzzard Wing]

Mainer, you and your neighbor would really enjoy a tour through TM's web site. They are a great source for parts too. http://www.tmtractor.com/gallery.htm

The orchard sounds familiar.... but rte 11 is one LONG road, New Brunswick to New Hampsire. But I am guessing you are not up in kinelbor's neighborhood.

Larry

[Buzzard Wing]

NOW I remember the orchard, lots of blue tractors.... there is guy next door that sells tractors and implements. Not going up that way this Saturday, but I will stop by one day!

The Cub with the hood off is at the corner of 117 and 25 in the shed.

It is a small world!

Larry

[mainer4]

Hi Larry;
That's the orchard. Guy lives in the brown house kind of up a little behind the gift shop.
I know the long shed you are talking about. Last time I went by there the shed was pretty much cleaned out, don't know what happened but there was a lot of implements and at least one tractor in there.
BTW, I was born at North Kingston, Navy brat from Quonset Point.
Small world indeed.

I see a lot of these Cubs in fields around here gathering rust, seems like they were pretty popular on these small NE farms and amongst frugal Maine folk. Fords and John Deere too, but that is another List.