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adding a second hydraulic control

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rick 48 cub
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Location: st. paul, mn

Postby rick 48 cub » Fri Dec 01, 2006 11:26 pm

Now that is a great idea Dan! I love it when devices are designed to prevent stupid accidents. I will have the male quick connect on one side of the piston, and the female on the other - so that when the blade comes off I can just connect the hoses together. So instead of relying soley upon the high pressure bypass in the hydraulic control - I will just have low pressure Hi-Tran taking the circle route.

I got the hydraulic valve in the mail two days ago. Ill measure this weekend for the piston. Next week I order everything else I need.

Rick
Rick 1948 cub

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rick 48 cub
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 379
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2004 9:29 pm
Location: st. paul, mn

Postby rick 48 cub » Fri Dec 01, 2006 11:44 pm

Hi Dan,

What is the size (for ordering) of the piston shown in your 11/29/06 7:34pm picture ? It looks a little heavier that others I have seen used on snow blades.

Thanks
Rick 1948 cub

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Dan Robertson
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Joined: Thu Feb 06, 2003 4:08 pm
Zip Code: 47421
eBay ID: gotowin
Tractors Owned: 55 cub,
74 cub,
Cub Cadet 1515,
Case 580B TLB,
53 Ford Jubilee,
MF 271XE,
JD 3130,
JD gater
Location: Bedford, IN

Postby Dan Robertson » Sat Dec 02, 2006 8:17 am

Rick, The hyd. cylinder (Hy Force Fluid Power) is a 1 1/2" bore, 8" stroke, with a 1" ram, rated for 3,000 max. pressure. It measures 16" CTC of the pin holes retracted, and 24" extended. With the 1" diameter ram retracting into the 1 1/2" bore of the cyl. it will retract at a somewhat faster speed then what it extends. Both are plenty fast though. I have learned to compensate by feathering the control valve to control blade angle speed. I actually bought two of these off Ebay about this time last year. Just looked on Ebay and nothing like these on there at this time. :(
:) Dan Robertson :)

:oops: We all make mistakes :oops:
I try to keep mine to a minimum

john2189
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Location: Minerva,Ohio

Postby john2189 » Sat Dec 02, 2006 8:47 am

I installed my hose disconnects on top of the hyd. control valve. even if it does dead head, the relief valve will take care of that.... but if that is all that valve is used for , you could simply remove the two pins and remove the handle..
'49 Cub (Vince)
'41 allis B with Woods L59 mower
656 Wheel Horse with 42” sickle mower
C-165 Wheel Horse
Simplicity 20 HP Sunstar
Honda 48” walk behind mower

rick 48 cub
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Posts: 379
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2004 9:29 pm
Location: st. paul, mn

Postby rick 48 cub » Sun Dec 03, 2006 10:32 am

Dan and John - thanks for the info.

To get the full swing on my front blade, and to avoid interference, it appears that the best cylinder for me would need about a 16" stroke. I'll try to stick with a 1" ram. If I can not find an afordable one of this size, I will re-think my design.

John, I like your idea because that way I would not be carrying aroud those two hoses all summer when I am mowing.

Take Care
Rick 1948 cub

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Dan Robertson
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Posts: 311
Joined: Thu Feb 06, 2003 4:08 pm
Zip Code: 47421
eBay ID: gotowin
Tractors Owned: 55 cub,
74 cub,
Cub Cadet 1515,
Case 580B TLB,
53 Ford Jubilee,
MF 271XE,
JD 3130,
JD gater
Location: Bedford, IN

Postby Dan Robertson » Sun Dec 03, 2006 12:00 pm

Rick, I can't imagine where you could possibly mount the cyl. that it would need 16" of stroke to angle the blade full right and also to the full left. --- :? --- PLEASE-- post a photo when possible showing your design. When I first begin laying out my plan I thought I would need possibly a 9" stroke cyl. (which I think would still work with a slight difference in mounting). Then the 8" stroke cyls. became available on E-bay, at a pretty good price for the two, and I determined that they would work also. :D
:) Dan Robertson :)



:oops: We all make mistakes :oops:

I try to keep mine to a minimum

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Rick Prentice
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Postby Rick Prentice » Sun Dec 03, 2006 2:04 pm

Rick, I can't imagine where you could possibly mount the cyl. that it would need 16" of stroke to angle the blade full right and also to the full left


Me neither Rick. I have my cylinder mounted all the way back on the 1" mounting pivot rod and my cylinder is only 12". Plus I have alittle over full swing in both directions.

another Rick
When I told my dad I've been misplacing things and doing stupid stuff----His reply---"It only gets better"

john2189
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Posts: 1776
Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:17 pm
Zip Code: 44657
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Minerva,Ohio

Postby john2189 » Sun Dec 03, 2006 2:57 pm

8" stroke is all you need if you mount it as Gary S. has done in the how to forum, that is how I did mine.
'49 Cub (Vince)
'41 allis B with Woods L59 mower
656 Wheel Horse with 42” sickle mower
C-165 Wheel Horse
Simplicity 20 HP Sunstar
Honda 48” walk behind mower

capecodcub
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More Pictures

Postby capecodcub » Sun Dec 03, 2006 4:30 pm

Dan I would really appreciate seeing more pictures of your hydraulic plumbing and hose locations for the blades. You have really put some thought and work into this and I for one would be grateful to see more of it for future projects for us. Thanks
David
David Svarczkopf

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Dan Robertson
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 311
Joined: Thu Feb 06, 2003 4:08 pm
Zip Code: 47421
eBay ID: gotowin
Tractors Owned: 55 cub,
74 cub,
Cub Cadet 1515,
Case 580B TLB,
53 Ford Jubilee,
MF 271XE,
JD 3130,
JD gater
Location: Bedford, IN

Postby Dan Robertson » Mon Dec 04, 2006 8:28 am

David thanks for the kind words. :{_}: I have several pics storied at the link below.
http://photos.cubfest.com/index.php?cat=10018
You can click on the various albums and most will have some pics showing the remote hydraulics as installed. I have alot more pics on my PC, just hate using up all my storage capacity on the album server. Let me know if you are looking for more specific area photos. Hope this will help you.
:) Dan Robertson :)



:oops: We all make mistakes :oops:

I try to keep mine to a minimum


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