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which battery charger do you use

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Eugene
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Postby Eugene » Sun Nov 26, 2006 4:17 pm

quote: I think the computer p/s use 20ga wire????

20 gauge wire is rated at 11 amps for chassis wiring and 1.5 amps for transmission.

Sort out the wires by voltage, bundle like voltages and then solder to a larger wire.

Junk computer power supplies. They are free. If they don't work put them in the trash.

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Postby Daniel H. » Sun Nov 26, 2006 4:23 pm

I'd like to make one more point on this. Just because you have a 12 Volt , 40 Amp power supply doesn't mean that more current will flow through you tank. The current (amps) depends on the voltage (12V) and the resistance (ohms) of your circuit. The resistance of the circuit depends on several factors: the soultion being used, the surface area of your plates (the anodes), the surface area of the part being cleaned and the quality of your connections. While it is possible to have a charger that cannot produce enough current, usually the limiting factor is the resistance of the circuit. A higher voltage will overcome the resistance and cause more current, but higher volatges and water can be lethal so the best thing to do is use larger plates and clean connections.
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Postby 400lbsonacubseatspring » Sun Nov 26, 2006 4:32 pm

Daniel H. wrote:I'd like to make one more point on this. Just because you have a 12 Volt , 40 Amp power supply doesn't mean that more current will flow through you tank. The current (amps) depends on the voltage (12V) and the resistance (ohms) of your circuit. The resistance of the circuit depends on several factors: the soultion being used, the surface area of your plates (the anodes), the surface area of the part being cleaned and the quality of your connections. While it is possible to have a charger that cannot produce enough current, usually the limiting factor is the resistance of the circuit. A higher voltage will overcome the resistance and cause more current, but higher volatges and water can be lethal so the best thing to do is use larger plates and clean connections.


Of course, you are correct...

It occurred to me that in some cases, the charger was insufficient.

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Postby Boss Hog » Sun Nov 26, 2006 8:49 pm

I use the 10-2 amp 6-12 V charger from NAPA. They are $50.00.
I run my tank all the time. Rough on Chargers. They have replaced 2 for me no ? asked. WHAT A DEAL
When I get the time I am going to hook up a 300 gal Tank I got the other day[ old milk tank] I will take some pics when I do
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Postby Eugene » Sun Nov 26, 2006 9:09 pm

"Jim BeckerI think I saw some instructions on using a computer power supply for this process somewhere on the web. As I recall, you have to be careful about the set-up to not blow up the power supply. Evidently they fail if powered up with no load, maybe they need a load on both the 5 and 12 volt outputs.


My guess on what happened is that the builder of the power unit did not sort out the power supply leads by voltage. The last one I did had 12V Pos, 12V Neg, 5V Pos, 5V Neg, and a neutral. The ones I salvaged out and used in shop class worked for years.

A computer power supply is basically a transformer. Powered up transformers sit idle/with no load for years without a problem. Example house door bell.

Just a thoughts.

When I use the electrolysis tank (32 gal) my battery charger usually starts out at around 8 amps then drops to 5 or 6 amps.

My findings. The electrolysis tank will take off paint. Loosens it up to be easily scraped or hand wire brushed off.

Eugene

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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sun Nov 26, 2006 9:30 pm

400lbsonacubseatspring wrote:Well....

To anyone who wants it.....I've a 12V power supply from an old RV...you'd need an ameter, and possibly some sort of potentiometer to reduce current flow, if it were too high......

I believe these things were capable of happily producing 40 or so amps in continuous service........

If this is useful to anyone, let me know, and it's yours...

--Tom
The 12 volt supplys in the campers I have had were ac output, rather than dc. When you turned them on they opened the dc path, and applied ac to lights, etc.
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Postby Rudi » Sun Nov 26, 2006 9:51 pm

Eugene:

I think I am going to try that. I have a couple dozen of those old AT one -- 300w or so..

something to think about anyways..
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Postby Eugene » Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:08 pm

Rudi wrote: I have a couple dozen of those old AT one -- 300w or so..
something to think about anyways..
300 watts at 12 volts = 25 amps. The current flow (amp draw) in the electrolysis tank will not be any where near 25 amps, just enough to over come the resistance.

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Postby Rudi » Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:21 pm

See Ohms law... I still haven't figured that out..

But I will try the p/s's though...

Thanks Eugene :!:
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Postby 400lbsonacubseatspring » Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:43 am

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:The 12 volt supplys in the campers I have had were ac output, rather than dc. When you turned them on they opened the dc path, and applied ac to lights, etc.


In modern campers, they provide DC, and are the charge source for the battery, as well as provide 12VDC for various appliances that use it (12V TV's, radios, etc) They are a hardwired transformer, with no method of turning them on.... If the camper is plugged in, they're on....

Are you thinking of a power inverter, John?? No, that's not what I meant.

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Postby 2 Busy » Mon Nov 27, 2006 3:24 am

400lbsonacubseatspring,

Did you get my pm?


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