Sat Nov 25, 2006 11:38 am
You are correct - the positive pole is the anode.
Sat Nov 25, 2006 11:51 am
I was saying the anode is the negative lead. The positive lead is actually growing bigger as the negative charged particles are drawn to it. Hench the need to clean it so more negative charges particles can be drawn to it.
Maybe I'm wrong but i still say the part being cleaned is actually the sacrifical peice(anode)( It is the one that is losing material). This is where i think there is confusion as some people are calling the positive charged peice the anode. I'm not saying i'm right but would like to clear things up on this process.
Hopefully the electric guru's , corrosion guru's, will explain which way is correct.
Sat Nov 25, 2006 11:55 am
Electrically speaking, the positive pole is the anode.
Sat Nov 25, 2006 1:23 pm
But still no matter what i try i still can only get 2 amps. I've tried moving closer, changing clamps, grinding metal bare, different charger. My solution is clear as mud now since i had the seat assembly in overnight.
I have 3 rods as anodes and a peice of plate steel about 4"x12" as electrode about 6 inches away from the rods and either way i hook it up 2amps max draw.Just for test purposes to see if i could do anything to get more draw.
I put 2 lbs tsp in about 40 gallons of water so strength should not be an issue.Beats me why i dont see the results other have.
Sat Nov 25, 2006 1:26 pm
The part being cleaned is the cathode and the rods or.
. become the anode. If you operate the tank for a long
period you will notice the rods begin to disappear
Sat Nov 25, 2006 7:22 pm
2 Busy wrote:I put 2 lbs tsp in about 40 gallons of water so strength should not be an issue.Beats me why i dont see the results other have.
At this point in time, I might suggest thinking of the battery charger as being the culprit.........Are you completely positive you don't have it set on the 2 amp setting, that it is not a 2 amp charger, or that it isn't an "automatic" charger that goes to "trickle" charge if the current draw is too high?
And yes, you are correct..... the parts being cleaned are the ones that are losing mass.....it is much the same as if you sandblasted them.....they would lose mass in that process as well.....
We are taking Ferrous oxide, making ferrous phosphate and oxygen out of it (as far as I can discern....I'm not that good of a chemist)..the ferrous phosphate ends up plating the rebar, or steel plate, and crudding it up.....
If it did not work this way, electrolysis would not have the ability to remove paint, or other "crud"......
Sat Nov 25, 2006 8:09 pm
The anode and cathode are both electrodes. Maybe that's the confusion? It is intended to be confusing... that's why an electron arbitrarily carries a negative charge.
Sat Nov 25, 2006 9:52 pm
Here is how I go about it.
I know nuddink about OHMS's Law ok.. I let my wife tell me all about that
2. I could care less which one is the anode, cathode, electrode or a ray tube... I don't understand it, Lord believe me, I have tried.. but hey .. I didn't get 3/100 in electrical class for nothing ok
3. I take the SIMPLE
road.. I am a believer in the KISS
A. take the leads that YOU determine to be the Positve and CONNECT THEM to the rebar. Make sure the ReBar does not sit on the bottom of the tank. Keep em off the bottom an inch or so.. that is more than sufficient.
B. Attach the piece you are going to clean to whatever it is you are using to do this with. I use the chain and quickie link... a short bar with a number of holes in it is also sufficient. Make sure that the part being cleaned is connected securely to the thingy you use.
C. CONNECT the NEGATIVE lead from the battery charger to the piece being cleaned.
D. Remember which is which or colour code em.. for me it is the RED to the ReBar and the Black to the Part.
E. Fire it up...
F. Clean the rebar every 8 hours of operation OR when you see the amperage fall below 2 amps.
Keeping it simple is the key.. that way we can't talk ourselves into making a mistake.. -- NO!
- don't ask...
Oh as for Battery Chargers.. MAKE SURE that you ARE NOT using an automatic charger.. it will shut down. Also do check and make sure that you are not on 6v and that it is indead the 10amp setting on 12 volts. again NO!
- don't ask...
Sat Nov 25, 2006 10:04 pm
2busy, are you sure your amp meter on your charger is working, and that it is on10 amp rather than 2 amp scale.
Sat Nov 25, 2006 10:13 pm
My charger is an automatic , there is no setting other than 6 or 12 volt with 10amp charge. 10 being max output and tapers off as the battery is charged. I suspect it is the charger also as i tried it on a battery today and about 7 amps was all it would draw(battery was low on charge).
So what kind of charger should i look for? Is there a particular phrase i should look for in searching?
Sat Nov 25, 2006 10:20 pm
Actually, the cheaper, no frills chargers are best for this application.
Sat Nov 25, 2006 10:36 pm
This is what I use:
Mostly cause I use a cheap charger.. This one currently lists at $39.99 and is not on sale. Mine was on sale for $29.99 I think...
Motomaster Manual Battery Charger, 6/2A
Also, here is another related thread.. Electrolysis Before and After?
and the new Where Do I find TSP in the US and What Charger to Use?
. They might be of some use.
Sat Nov 25, 2006 10:38 pm
How simpler can they be, either i set it on 6 volts or 12 volts. Just wondered what not to buy besides one like mine. I've got 2 and they are pretty much the same except one is 4 amp and the other is 10 amp.
Sat Nov 25, 2006 11:08 pm
By reading your post, you have a battery inbetween the automatic charger and the tank. Ok .. that works.. as long as the battery requires a charge and that is the rub..
If you want to use the tank, and get good results quickly, invest in a CHEAP charger..
Here is one comparable to the one I use..
Century Welders Battery Charger â€” 2/6 Amp, 6/12 Volt
and it is only $29.95US...
And it is not automatic... plug it in and forget it for awhile..
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